Roll cage install...pics

Yellow73SB

Yellow73SB

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Mar 24, 2008
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It runs with the t-tops perfectly so I can get as much helmet clearance as possible

In the pics aren't exactly how it's going to be mounted the rear of it is moved up a bit and the front is down more. Theres only a zip tie holding it in in the pics.

Tomorrow I'll do the fish mouth for the rear mounted and make the pedestals for the front part of the bar.

I think the multiple bends are fine according to the 2004 scca production roll cage rules

101_1936.jpg

101_1937.jpg
 
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I don't have a clue if the rules allow multiple bends but it sure looks good... did you buy a pipe bender or what ? Any chance you can make more ? Once you know it fits can you use the first one as a template ?
I was going to install a cage but the stuff you can buy doesn't seem to fit too good... and the Jegs rollbar is $150 and another $150 or so for shipping ... and it needs to be cut and rewelded to make it fit.... :mad:
 
Do you want a roll bar or the full cage? I could get you the rest of the steel you need if you want me too, we have a good local supplier, it's all DOM though so it's a bit more expensive

I have a template for the rear main hoop, I'm already making one for some one else so another wouldn't be a problem, and it would be a bit less than 300, I'll only charge you $299. And it fits well with all the stock trim although fitment will be much easier on yours

I'm borrowing a guys bender right now so it's in our shop and I'm free to make what ever I want

Heres my roll bar

101_1919.jpg
 
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I have so much stuff on my plate that I wouldn't be able to install a cage before spring.... I want to do the trailing arms and bearings first, then the steering....

At that price I might just get it and store it until I have time to install it, let me think about it for a day or two....

If I were you I'd make as many as I can, this might be the first cage (kit) that is affordable and actually fits without major surgery.
 
I think I'll just do the 4 pt roll bar kits

The full roll cage is a PITA plus the tubing alone will be over 600 dollars, I have templates for the full cages though

How much should I sell the 4 point kit? I'll be near 100 bucks in tubing alone
 
For a rollbar that actually fits you can get good money, shipping is a problem though... main reason why I did not buy Jegs' rollbar.... $150 is ok if it needs some cutting and fitting but $300 incl shipping is too much for something that doesn't fit ...
 
This is going to be good. I like how you did the bar to tuck up as high as possible.
 
How should I do the standoffs?

I got the other side hoop done today

I'll post pics when I get back from dinner
 
And heres the passenger bar

101_1938.jpg

I wonder how I should do the dash bar?

101_1939-1.jpg
 
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not in red or lime green please :D

There's a lot of room behind the dash to run a bar across. Also, cut holes in the firewall and run the cage to the front shock towers.

How is your car (frame) supported while you're doing all this ?
 
MYBAD79 said:
not in red or lime green please :D

There's a lot of room behind the dash to run a bar across. Also, cut holes in the firewall and run the cage to the front shock towers.

How is your car (frame) supported while you're doing all this ?
Click to expand...

It's just on a lift right now for fitment

I'm going to set on level jackstands for the final fitment and welding

I'm going to go through the fire wall to right behind the shock towers and also run a bar from those bars down to the "s" bend in the chassis

I'm going to have to think of something for the dash bar, I don't want it to be in front of the dash
 
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... so you're going to have the frame supported on jacks instead of the wheels on the ground ? How much will that frame flex if you support it on jacks ? How many jacks ? Just 4 or more ?
 
I kind of think it seems better than at ride height

I don't know though maybe I should do it a ride height, I'll have to measure points on the frame to the ground to make sure the frame is level. The body is way out of square
 
Maybe even half way between, lift the frame a little but don't unload the wheels completely.... I'm sure they have written books about this.... or heck, just wait until Marck wakes up, he'll know.... :fishing:
 
Do it with some jackstands under the suspension and then level out the frame (not the suspension, there will always be differences) key is, full weight on the car.
 
Jack stands under the suspension? What do you mean?

BTW I got the whole right side hoop fit and tacked in today

I forgot the camera though
 
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