Rearend Noise

Dirtbuster1

Dirtbuster1

Well-known member
Joined
May 13, 2008
Messages
649
Location
Georgia
Finally got to drive my car for the 1st time in a year. Going down the road, I keep hearing a weird noise. :eek: Possible bearing noise, but it sounds different than I would suspect. Is it possible that the spare tire carrier being empty would possibly sound like that. The only other thing I could think of would be the emergency brake partially rubbing.

Any thoughts or suggestions?
 
Constant noise? Intermittent? Speed sensitive? On the gas or off? Deep grinding sound or a little squeak squeak? Left, Right or both? Still do it when you turn left/right?

:fishing:
 
Good to hear from you Tim.

Changed the CTS out and took it around the block. Definently sounds speed sensitive. Sounds like it's coming from the center of the car, possibly the differential. Changed the fluid to Mobil 1, but I didn't put in any additives for the limited slip. It also could be coming from the T/A's. It's just hard to tell.

It could be everythings tight. Don't know?

Thanks
 
I had a "noise" coming from the rear end. I fought it for nearly a year and finally figured out that it was the right muffler was touching the right rear fiberglass quarter-panel. But it was more of a vibration and I could hear it when the car was idling or moving.

I move the muffler 1/4" inboard and solved the problem.

Couldn't hurt to check it out.
 
Just remembered that the muffler hanger to the backside of the converter broke. I don't think that it would be speed dependent, but could be load related.

I'll keep looking.

Thanks
 
The more I start driving my car, the more this noise is starting to bother me. There is now a squeaking noise that comes and goes. Riding down the road beside a concrete wall, it obvious somethings going on. The noise is coming from the passenger rear. Could possibly be the emergency brake, but I'm starting to suspect the TA bearing. It possibly sounds like the cage is draging. With all the movement in the rear suspension, how should I block to check for bearing play. This thing has less than 100 miles on it. This will be a major PITA if I have to remove it now.

Suggestions!
 
That thing I was ready to blow up this week. :cussing:The whole car. The TA bearings.

I need to catch a break. It's getting to hot to work on this thing at 100F.
 
What has a 100 miles on it?
Can you give any more details about the noise?
Mike
 
The noise is a clicking sound. It comes and goes. I talked withthe person that built them, he thought it might be the parking brake. He told me to wiggle the wheel at 3 & 9 o'clock to check for loosness. Do I need to support the TA while doing this to keep everything else stationary. I hope it's just the parking brake.

Thanks
 
Thing, them , they. WTF? :lol:
Are you saying the T/A's have 100 miles on a rebuild? If so, who did the work?
 
Someone that was refered to me. I'd rather not say until I know for sure. It was dropped by UPS when delivered. I knew that because the dust shield was bent. It was reported, but that was 7 months ago.

If I have to I will hook it up to a bearing analyzer to make sure before removing. The only hard thing with that is setting a constant speed to collect data unless I take syncronous data. If it's a cage it will be very obvious.

What are you thoughts?
 
Dropping it will not harm a thing.

If you run it in the air, you have to jack up the arms straight, or it will bind.
 
I did a absoultly perfect set of arms for a guy in CA a couple of years ago.These looked better then any new arms. UPS got them from CT - CA and someone dropped them off the truck at the guys house- In front of him. We spoke and he shipped them back to me. I found the plate was bent a little bit but the bearings felt as good as I when I installed them- 0015 endplay. I replaced them anyway not wanting to risk a problem. I've had some non Timken fail during install as well, these were supplied to me and I ended using the USA Timkens.
What endplay did your guy set them to? under 001 and that may be a problem unrelated to dropping them, if the impact was on the spindle then I would really check them for movement- play.
 
I can't find the spec sheet that they were set at. In what direction should I check for play. If I support the bottom of the TA, should it matter. I will have to borrow a dial indicator from a friend to check for play. I don't know exactly how they were dropped, but it bent the bottom of the dust cover.

Is there anyway the parking brake could make a clicking noise?

Thanks
 
Yes, if the spring cups hit the backs of the wheel studs it will make a clicking noise. Not uncommon at all.
 
What is the best way to adjust that to keep that from happening again. That should be obvious when I pull the rotor off shouldn't it? Just realign it?

Thanks
 
If you have the rear of the car up on stands and level the arms to ride height then pull the caliper and rotor, disconnect the 1/2 shaft and then you have just the spindle bearings moving. In fact do this down 1 step at a time to see if you can hear it by moving the rotor. If the PB shoes are hanging up once you pull the rotor you'll know. If you can push/pull the spindle and see it then you're over 003 endplay and I'll look closer at that.
 
I will try to tear it down by tommorow night. I will then post a update on my findings.

Thanks for the help!
 
After tearing down the TA to the point of the parking brake, it looks like the sound is coming from the 2 retainer springs. What can I do to adjust them to stop the clicking noise. If I move the shoes back and forth it seems like the springs are catching on something. The shoes also look like they are in further at the bottom. I am getting out my AIM to see if something is missing.
 
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