Problem with Body Mount #4.

Maymyvetteliveforever

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2009
Messages
220
Location
Ontario
Looking for suggestions on a long term repair. Keep in mind the car is not transportable and I can't remove the whole mount and tig weld a new one in due to space restraints. How about if I get a 10 gauge flat bar and mold it to contour to the existing mount, predrill the top opening and tig weld all along the front lip? Can anyone foresee any problems tig welding so close to the tank and lines?

This car is driving me to drink......too much!



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Sides seem solid, I would just buy some 3/16 steel and cut a plate and use a hole saw to drill a hole. then cut the plate to fit under the rotted out metal and weld in place and shim to make up the difference.
 
Strange to see the frame rotted out like that, when usually those steel cups attached to the body go WAY before the frame....

I assume that IS what I am looking at there, certainly looks like it, the cups are aluminum rivited to the glass.....

so assuming it's all right, I fail to see why not with some 1/8" steel and a hole in it, and done, basically I dunno even if necessary to weld at all, assuming you do both sides and the metal rides against the frame itself on that inner edge....not going fore/aft, not going side/side....vertical seems solid enough....

:thumbs::smash:
 
Sides seem solid, I would just buy some 3/16 steel and cut a plate and use a hole saw to drill a hole. then cut the plate to fit under the rotted out metal and weld in place and shim to make up the difference.
stpman offered me some 1/8" flatbar that I'll pick up next week. Yes the sides are solid as the car only has 50,000 miles on her, problem arrised from sitting in the same spot for over 20 years. I was thinking of a plate overtop rather then underneath and having it overlap the edges and tig weld along the front. I have a major concern about tig welding near the gas tank.
so assuming it's all right, I fail to see why not with some 1/8" steel and a hole in it, and done, basically I dunno even if necessary to weld at all, assuming you do both sides and the metal rides against the frame itself on that inner edge....not going fore/aft, not going side/side....vertical seems solid enough....

:thumbs::smash:
Yup steel cups are in great shape and I do want to tig weld it in place. I checked the other side today and it's in the same shape.
 
If you can TIG weld there is no reason you can't MIG. It is way easier in my opinion.

The nice thing about a MIG is you can get the tip into some much tighter spots and weld that you would not be able to get a TIG torch and filler rod.
 
Then I guess it goes back to my first reason, I don't have a Mig Welder and none of my friends either.

Thanks for the suggestion though.
 
I would pickup some welders blanket at Harbor Freight (or the Canadian equivalent). Other than that.... no issue, I welded my #4 body mount back in 2004....
 
I would pickup some welders blanket at Harbor Freight (or the Canadian equivalent). Other than that.... no issue, I welded my #4 body mount back in 2004....

Just cut your metal and take to a muffler shop. slip them a few bucks and I'm sure you can get a guy there to quik weld it up.
 
I would pickup some welders blanket at Harbor Freight (or the Canadian equivalent). Other than that.... no issue, I welded my #4 body mount back in 2004....

Just cut your metal and take to a muffler shop. slip them a few bucks and I'm sure you can get a guy there to quik weld it up.

Yup, and it's funny to watch, my Muffler Shop man here can MIG something together so much faster than my Pro Welder buddy across the river, who has only TIG and Stick.....

I dunno if MIG can do aluminum or not....at any rate ....

:surrender:
 
Just cut your metal and take to a muffler shop. slip them a few bucks and I'm sure you can get a guy there to quik weld it up.
I'm somewhat confused, what would the muffler shop weld up? Not the mount on the car since the car can not be moved, and the metal doesn't need to be welded.....other then onto the original mount.
 
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Just cut your metal and take to a muffler shop. slip them a few bucks and I'm sure you can get a guy there to quik weld it up.
I'm somewhat confused, what would the muffler shop weld up? Not the mount on the car since the car can not be moved, and the metal doesn't need to be welded.....


then bend a U shaped sleeve to slide over the original mount and just bolt it down
 
lloks like Jeff assumed the car can be moved :push:

I agree that if the car was moveable it would be best to stop by some muffler shop and have them weld the pre-shaped piece onto the old body mount....

Now since you have a welder.....cut the rotten steel off the old mount, cut a piece to fit and weld it in place... buy some cheap welders blanket to place between the tank and the frame... just to be safe..... $20 well spent....
 
bend a U shaped sleeve to slide over the original mount and just bolt it down

Now since you have a welder.....cut the rotten steel off the old mount, cut a piece to fit and weld it in place... buy some cheap welders blanket to place between the tank and the frame... just to be safe..... $20 well spent....
I think that's my best bet, if anything it should be stronger then the original. I can get welding blankets so I should be ok.
 
These are some progressive photos of my #4 and how I repaired it.
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The steel was just some scrap 1/8 inch plate I had lying around
and a hole saw was used to make holes. The stick welds were sloppy,
but more than adequate to secure the plate. Eliminate a shim to compensate for the added material and you are done. BTW...I will add that as a result of the rotted out #4 mounts of my hatch rear glass 79, there was a gap between the bottom glass and rubber seal. After raising the body where it should have been and proper shimming, the gap closed and no more leaks. Good luck, this is an easy fix.
 
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Thanks for taking the time to post the pictures Red. I'm going to be picking up the material at the end of this week but I still need to decide about either removing the fuel or dropping the tank. So the repair won't be this week. Still gathering info.

Thanks again.
 
Thanks for taking the time to post the pictures Red. I'm going to be picking up the material at the end of this week but I still need to decide about either removing the fuel or dropping the tank. So the repair won't be this week. Still gathering info.
Thanks again.

Glad to be of help. I did remove my body mounts all around and raised the body a few inches. I did this mostly to clean and paint the frame and underside. If just repairing the #4 mount, it can be done with the other mount bolts untouched. If you need to slightly elevate the rear of the body to shim correctly, place a piece of plywood on the underside, after removing the fuel tank. This will give you support to jack against and raise the body slightly from #3 mount back. It worked for me, without damaging my lacquer paint or anything else.

The fuel tank will come out easily after draining or pumping fuel out. The later model C-3 with the vapor canister are a PITA trying to undo the lines at the top. My wrists are small, so I snaked my hands in there and was able to undo the hose clamps. After that you are good to go. BTW...you won't need to remove the fuel tank when welding, if you provide a good barrier between the welding stinger and tank. The heat from the welding area won't hurt anything, it is accidentally arcing a fuel container with the welding stinger. If you create a good barrier from the tank and fuel lines, you will be OK, but a personal choice.
 
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Thanks for taking the time to post the pictures Red. I'm going to be picking up the material at the end of this week but I still need to decide about either removing the fuel or dropping the tank. So the repair won't be this week. Still gathering info.
Thanks again.

Glad to be of help. I did remove my body mounts all around and raised the body a few inches. I did this mostly to clean and paint the frame and underside. If just repairing the #4 mount, it can be done with the other mount bolts untouched. If you need to slightly elevate the rear of the body to shim correctly, place a piece of plywood on the underside, after removing the fuel tank. This will give you support to jack against and raise the body slightly from #3 mount back. It worked for me, without damaging my lacquer paint or anything else.

The fuel tank will come out easily after draining or pumping fuel out. The later model C-3 with the vapor canister are a PITA trying to undo the lines at the top. My wrists are small, so I snaked my hands in there and was able to undo the hose clamps. After that you are good to go. BTW...you won't need to remove the fuel tank when welding, if you provide a good barrier between the welding stinger and tank. The heat from the welding area won't hurt anything, it is accidentally arcing a fuel container with the welding stinger. If you create a good barrier from the tank and fuel lines, you will be OK, but a personal choice.

Tell you all a little story, I know TT knows this is true....

'79-80 fuel crunch, Sha of Iran, Carter and all that bullshit.....we had a vacation planned.....so to avoid gas lines, I bought another tank from a junkyard....had a welder do the tank mods to get it into the 3/4 ton chebby van.....so I pull the tank right there in the driveway....he fills with ARGON and welds away....I about freaked out....he just laughs....and says the obvious....the Argon renders the gas in the tank as having no air to burn with....

no problem....run like a charm for some years.....
had 50 gallons on board, plus 9 in the boat.....500 miles even at 10 mpg...plus extra for whatever....

:thumbs::eek::smash::clap:
 
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