Power Window Questions

68RAT

68RAT

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Joined
Apr 28, 2009
Messages
16
Location
Chetwynd, B.C. Canada
I've replaced all the bearings, track rollers, bushings, power window motor bushing etc. in the passenger door. Lubed it all up with white lithium grease. Hooked up the power window motor and the window STILL came up quite slow. Was REALLY hoping this would solve the speed and power of the window going up. I assumed (I hate doing that) the window was going up slowly because of the 42 year old bearings etc. The motor seemed to be working fine. The motor gear and the regulator gear both look really good.

Could it be the power window regulator spring? How do you tell if this is worn out? Is there a way to measure the power/strength of the motor? How do I tell if the motor is worn out or not? My window would not go up all the way and seal to the door and roof weather stripping. I was hoping that this would have solved the problem. Where do I go from here? I know I am going to have some REAL FUN getting it all adjusted.


Also, when I went searching for a new power window for a '68 I found
1968-1976 Power Window Motor - RH - Flat Style 76E

What is the "flat style"? Is there a different motor or will this work in my '68?

68RAT
 
The spring might be the issue. Does it work better if you pull up on the glass (assist the spring)? That might be an indication that you need a new spring. Make sure the teeth on the sector gear are good also.

The other thing to watch is the ground. The frame of the motor is ground to the regulator to the door to the hinges to etc.etc. You might not be getting 12v.

The early connector is different than the later connector. I can't remember which is which but the motor itself is the same.
 
BBShark said:
The other thing to watch is the ground. The frame of the motor is ground to the regulator to the door to the hinges to etc.etc. You might not be getting 12v.
Click to expand...

Agreed. Check the voltage getting to the motor and then again while the motor is operating. Let us know the results. Someone will be able to tell you if it's all good.

DC
 
As the others have mentioned, it is very important to assure good electrical connections to the PW motor. If I remember correctly, my PW window harness included a ground wire that clipped to the motor. If by some chance your harness doesn't, it would be worth it to add a ground. I do know that the replacement motor I installed had a slightly different ground connection than the one I replaced. My original had the clip on the motor. My replacement didn't, so I added one.

It sounds like your issue is with the return spring. Before you go to the trouble of buying a new spring, try increasing the preload on it by winding the spring an additional turn.

Also check to see that the gears are aligned properly as the window is raised and lowered. My linkage was bent slightly causing the sector gear and pinion to be at slight angles to one another. It was easy enough just to bend it back into alignment.

Hope this helps. It sounds like you've done all the things I did when reviving my power windows.
 
Ok.... Thanx for the help so far. Got some more info now. Yes it works better if I pull up on the window but it does on my truck too. The driver's side window goes up fairly good now. But goes down VERY fast!!! :shocking: Almost scary fast. After pulling it out (motor and regulator) the spring looks quite rusty and looks only 1/2 sprung. But there still isn't room to turn it any more. So it looks like a new spring and rivet for that side. Can I re-use the rivet? :skeptic:

While I had both sides out I took the motors apart and cleaned them up along with the brushes and commutator. I have a commutator cleaning stone and used it on them and it cleaned them up REAL good. After putting them back together I ran the motors and calculated the rpm of the motor gears. 69 rpm in one direction and 101 rpm in the other direction on the passenger motor and 72rpm and 102rpm on the driver side motor. Pretty consistent I thought.

Put both motors and regulators back into the car and tried them with the windows all hooked up. The passenger side now works quite well and goes up higher than it ever did before. This is a HUGE success :yahoo:as this was the original reason for doing ALL this window work in the first place. The driver side still goes up somewhat slow and FAST going down. Motor seems to work quite well.

Checked the volts at the motors and it is 12.2V. So wiring and ground seems to be okay.

Any thoughts or comments?????:drink::drink:

68RAT
 
I hate to say this, but it's easy to get confused, and put a new spring in backwards. Don't ask.:censored:
 
My 82 had windows that went down at a scary rate to the point I thought the door glass was going to break. New regulator springs and window motors made them work real nice.
 
This may sound odd but check the switch. My drivers door window was very slow on the up. I traced it to the switch. I re-seated the connection and also cleaned the switch. Now the window goes so fast it would probably chop a finger off.:eek:
c-ya
ToddG
 
ToddG said:
This may sound odd but check the switch. My drivers door window was very slow on the up. I traced it to the switch. I re-seated the connection and also cleaned the switch. Now the window goes so fast it would probably chop a finger off.:eek:
c-ya
ToddG
Click to expand...

:smash:

Yes, that can well be true.....don't ask.....:bomb:
 
I've got new switches in already but thanx for the heads-up. Waiting for new spring and rivet right now.... should be here soon.

68RAT
 
Be careful-- the edges of the regulator are sharp and the spring is pretty strong. Finger in the wrong place and we can give you a new nickname.

The "flat" motor is the rectangle one- the other style is a round one.
 
Back to questions on the spring. My drivers regulator spring broke today. Window still works but slow on the up...

Question...

In order to replace the spring the regulator has to come out. I understand this is an annoying task...

Should i just replace the complete reg assembly that comes with the spring since i will have to take it out anyhow...?? or just mess with the spring?

c-ya
ToddG
 
Todd, you'll need to figure out what shape the rest of the regulator is in. If all the rivets are sloppy and loose, the arms bent or distorted, rollers, gear, etc., then I'd say the whole thing. If it's just the spring broke, replace just that. Might also take a look at all the rollers and guides in there too. At least pull the tracks for a clean and lube.
 
Tim, thanks for the info. The reg seems fine but the window seems loose and this I suspect would be from the rollers. I am going to order from C-America the roller kit complete and the spring. I think this will do the trick. The rattle pads seem to be OK.

c-ya
ToddG
 
When converting my '72 to power windows, ditching the manual shit with the interior update, I soaked both sides in a pan of gasoline overnight to cut that dried out crap white lube...put it all together dry, and except for ONE application of WD40 a few years ago, it is that way now....

the springs are a PIA, and you need to pull the regulator...

had the pass side fall out about a year ago, replaced it with a junkyard/show find....

:bounce:
 
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