MSD junk or....

Isn't that why MSD has the dash switch to change over to a spare box? Just in case...

I need to go to an ignition system as the HEI will not provide the RPM's. What else is out there? Heard Crane was good but not sure if they started supported these again.
 
69427 said:
Well, from all the threads like this I've read over the years, I'd say that repair expertise is due to all the practice they get.
Click to expand...


If you find a better product you should buy it.
I have a dual pick-up MSD distributor, two 6T boxes and two coils in my vintage racer and in the 11 years and 36 races I entered I have never had to use the change over switch.
 
redvetracr said:
69427 said:
Well, from all the threads like this I've read over the years, I'd say that repair expertise is due to all the practice they get.
Click to expand...


If you find a better product you should buy it. I have a dual pick-up MSD distributor, two 6T boxes and two coils in my vintage racer and in the 11 years and 36 races I entered I have never had to use the change over switch.
Click to expand...

I do.
 
I may still go MSD on my build.

Some seem to last a long time while others fail. Could a problem be caused by not have a large enough ground/return wire? If not could this cause the electronics to float above ground?

One other item that comes to mind is an alternator with a bad diode. These can still charge and appear OK but could put AC on power input.
 
daveL82 said:
I may still go MSD on my build.

Some seem to last a long time while others fail. Could a problem be caused by not have a large enough ground/return wire? If not could this cause the electronics to float above ground?

One other item that comes to mind is an alternator with a bad diode. These can still charge and appear OK but could put AC on power input.
Click to expand...

Yep. That used to make digital dashes go ape shit. Another reason for the change to CS alternators was cleaner output.
 
big2bird said:
daveL82 said:
I may still go MSD on my build.

Some seem to last a long time while others fail. Could a problem be caused by not have a large enough ground/return wire? If not could this cause the electronics to float above ground?

One other item that comes to mind is an alternator with a bad diode. These can still charge and appear OK but could put AC on power input.
Click to expand...

Yep. That used to make digital dashes go ape shit. Another reason for the change to CS alternators was cleaner output.
Click to expand...

Well, it's NOT A/C really, as it never really ever goes negative, but an irregular + pulse cycle....I remember looking at the pulse parade years ago on some alt with a bad diode, and one glance at the scope pattern told me what the DVM was saying in another format....rocket science 101....

:D:harhar:
 
mrvette said:
big2bird said:
daveL82 said:
I may still go MSD on my build.

Some seem to last a long time while others fail. Could a problem be caused by not have a large enough ground/return wire? If not could this cause the electronics to float above ground?

One other item that comes to mind is an alternator with a bad diode. These can still charge and appear OK but could put AC on power input.
Click to expand...

Yep. That used to make digital dashes go ape shit. Another reason for the change to CS alternators was cleaner output.
Click to expand...

Well, it's NOT A/C really, as it never really ever goes negative, but an irregular + pulse cycle....I remember looking at the pulse parade years ago on some alt with a bad diode, and one glance at the scope pattern told me what the DVM was saying in another format....rocket science 101....

:D:harhar:
Click to expand...

Yes. I was refering to the bad diode. Forgot to erase the rest in the quote.
 
big2bird said:
mrvette said:
big2bird said:
daveL82 said:
I may still go MSD on my build.

Some seem to last a long time while others fail. Could a problem be caused by not have a large enough ground/return wire? If not could this cause the electronics to float above ground?

One other item that comes to mind is an alternator with a bad diode. These can still charge and appear OK but could put AC on power input.
Click to expand...

Yep. That used to make digital dashes go ape shit. Another reason for the change to CS alternators was cleaner output.
Click to expand...

Well, it's NOT A/C really, as it never really ever goes negative, but an irregular + pulse cycle....I remember looking at the pulse parade years ago on some alt with a bad diode, and one glance at the scope pattern told me what the DVM was saying in another format....rocket science 101....

:D:harhar:
Click to expand...

Yes. I was refering to the bad diode. Forgot to erase the rest in the quote.
Click to expand...

:yahoo::flash::beer:
 
Alternator is a brand new ford 3g, I ran all new power and ground wires from battery to block, starter solenoid, starter and chassis to engine ground, all high quality oversized oxygen free copper fine strand welding cable with crimped and soldered ends on clean bare metal with serrated washers.

This is not the first one to go out, I have a whole collection of 6al boxes that went bad, some dead as a doornail some with erratic spark at higher revs......

I'm taking it off this weekend and will send it in for repairs if possible
 
Bad Diode should not be the culprite. TT said he wired the power directly to the 12v battery. That should have reduced any ripple down significantly assuming a solid ground. Maybe an inadvertent arc from a spark plug wire to a vulnerable I/O pin??? That will kill most any low voltage digital circuit unless adequatly protected internally.
I hate it when manufacturers elect to pot the electronics. They say they do it for ruggedness and environmental protection, but I think it is done so we the consumer, can't fix anything and need to throw it in the shit can.:bullshit:
Like 69427 said, infant mortality. The stress of the potting curing probably forced a marginal state. Haha.

Bullshark
 
All spark plugs run quite a distance from the wires to the box. The box is wired with all wiring running along the radiator shroud and then from the dr. side fender to the dizzy. the pass side has the coil and the wiring, it's a ford..the dizzy is on the front.
 
Ever watch a NASCAR race? ALL the cars have TWO ignition boxes and a switch to go to either one when one fails. I'll pass. :(
 
My vote would be for a GM hei with a proper external oil cooled coil.
My understanding is that it handles higher rpm just fine and reliability is certainly not an issue, not is expense.

Jag used to sell an oem ignition controller box for around 400 bucks, all that was in it was an hei module.
 
010752 said:
My vote would be for a GM hei with a proper external oil cooled coil.
My understanding is that it handles higher rpm just fine and reliability is certainly not an issue, not is expense.

Jag used to sell an oem ignition controller box for around 400 bucks, all that was in it was an hei module.
Click to expand...


YGTBFSM.....:hissyfit::cussing::eek::censored:
 
010752 said:
My vote would be for a GM hei with a proper external oil cooled coil. That's the setup I'm running. :thumbs:
My understanding is that it handles higher rpm just fine and reliability is certainly not an issue, not is expense.

Jag used to sell an oem ignition controller box for around 400 bucks, all that was in it was an hei module.
Click to expand...

That sounds like some serious markup!

I've been running HEI electronics in my '69 for the past 30 years. The circuitry is packaged in a custom module that was originally designed to be sold to a well known English automotive electrical component company (You're all bright enough to guess who I'm talking about). I don't recall if the contracts were signed and if it went into production though.
 
010752 said:
Jag used to sell an oem ignition controller box for around 400 bucks, all that was in it was an hei module.
Click to expand...

When I was a kid, working in a service station, a guy used to bring his V12 Jag in every 3 months, and have me change that box. This went on for a year, untill I suggested we move it, and put in a heat shield. He never needed another one again. They had it mounted on a valve cover, or some dumb high heat place like that.:thankyou:
 
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