Long Overdue Progress! Dash panel install

Still working on some behind the dash issues before I close it up. One of the things I have always hated about 60's cars is the hot/cold cable control. The cable is almost always bound up so it's either stuck on hot or cold or somewhere in between. And the cable is so stiff you can't really route it so that it won't bind up.

I found this tiny 2" stroke actuator that fits in there perfectly.

1697835911418.png
 
Yes that's the painting process. I have not glued them in yet, still need to mat clearcoat the dash parts.
 
Had some problems with the dash paint, but it's finally done. Got the chrome bezels in. Next step is installation. Need to get that done because all the other gauges are piggybacked of the tach/speedo.

1699550355421.png

This is what I started with:

1699550574261.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: rtj
Looks amazing! I will definitely go this route on my dash pad and if it comes out like a pile of slop, then I'll consider buying new pieces. Seeing what you've turned out here gives me hope that I can work into it with some practice. Great work!
 
There is a clear urethane topcoat on the parts. Don't know much about the process but it takes a lot of water. Iv'e seen people use this for exterior trim on cars and even engine parts so it must be pretty durable.
 
There is a clear urethane topcoat on the parts. Don't know much about the process but it takes a lot of water. Iv'e seen people use this for exterior trim on cars and even engine parts so it must be pretty durable.
thats very nice
 
Still chasing gremlins before closing up the dash. Lots of little stuff, today was a defective door switch and cutting a hole for the door contacts.

Where a lot's of stuff has to be worked out before dash install

1701989138244.png

1701989331157.png

Lot's of people are not fans of these connectors. But, properly installed and maintained, I think they are OK.

1701988810366.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: rtj
Installed gauges, not good

Oil gauge reads 85 psi at idle.

Fuel gauge reads Full (there is 1 or 2 gallons in the tank)

Tach reads 1100RPM at idle, Holley software says 900

Temp reads 205 and Holly software says 180

Some of the numbers on the tach and speedo flicker.
 
you have a Dakota Digital dash? those numbers sound like a common problem with it. I will solve this in my round of updates (and I've talked to DD about this). But it's pretty annoying when your dash gauge says 240 and the Holley gauge says 198... and the senders are right next to each other....
 
I have New Vintage gauges. I think they are similar to DD, a supposed plug and play system. Everything is wired through the Speedo and Tach. Fuel, temp, pressure and battery plug into the speedo & tach.


Fuel Gauge reading full at almost empty tank: I checked the DC resistance (car off) of the fuel @ 1.2 ohm which doesn't surprise me because there is minimal gas in the car. However it should be reading empty at 0 ohms and full at 90 ohms (not full at 1.2 ohms). Stock GM sender.

Temperature gauge reading 205 but Holley software says 180. With the cat at room temperature, the temperature sender is 1.3k ohms at 60 degrees F. Not sure but I think it is supposed to be 500-600ohms at room temperature.

Pressure sensor reads 85psi at idle: Pressure sensor reads 0 ohms (car off). Supposed to be 240-33ohms (range 0-100psi)
 
Not much help from New Vintage so far except for a YT video selling their products. Impossible to actually talk to someone.

So, today I fixed the fuel gauge. I suspect the Temp sender is DOA. I tested it with resistors and the gauge seems to be working correctly. The Pressure reading at 85psi is starting to look legit. I'm going to get a test gauge for that.

85psi at idle? That's concerning.
 
I just picked up a test gauge. Probably get that done tomorrow.

Also try a new temp sender.
 
I just picked up a test gauge. Probably get that done tomorrow.

Also try a new temp sender.
A couple things. Fuel senders, I've gone through hell trying to find a sender that works with Dakota Digital (and it seems both of your problems are things that DD have trouble with). I'll dig up the instructions - IIRC the Ford senders work opposite the GM sender (don't quote me, let me find that paperwork).

Temp sensors. DD knows of the problem and depending on the day you would get this advice: 1) check your grounds/run a ground from the battery to the block. 2) the sender is bad, and they sent me several, and finally, 3) figure out the difference in a percentage and put a resistor in line.

it is very frustrating to have the Holley telling me that the temp is 200 and Dakota Digital tells me 240.... especially since the senders are adjacent to each other and exactly the same. It does help, though because I can simply swap which sender is informing which to verify the senders are fine.
 
I put a mechanical gauge on the oil pressure and it was 68psi from a cold start @ idle (Holley SW says 900rpm). When the engine was warm that was reduced to 60psi. I took the oil fill cap off the cover with the engine running and it looks pretty dry in there. It's been a while since I put the top end of the engine together, maybe 4 years ago. I used some red lube (Comp Cams?) that was really sticky and thick. I sort of remember thinking how was oil going to wash it out.

Also, I primed the engine about a year ago and I saw very little oil coming out of the pushrods. I damn near burned up a 1/2 HP drill as I recall. I used Rottella 15w-40w in the engine. I suppose it's possible that the cam lube is dried to a point where the oil won't wash out the cam lube?

I am probably going to put a resistor in the Temp gauge line. Holley SW says 175* and NVU gauge says 190* (resistance is 105ohms at 190*). I'm thinking 10-15ohms
 
BTW, this is a Lunati roller in a 502BBC.

Started it up with the cover off and took some movies. This is oil being pumped out of the pushrod. So, I don't know if it's enough but it is getting oil. I have a movie but not really sure how to post it here. This is a frame from the movie that shows it.

1702679640453.png
 
Top