Have you seen this before? Thoughts?
http://www.barrygrant.com/fromBarryGrant/Demon Instruction Manuals/Idle-Eze-Addendum.pdf
http://www.barrygrant.com/fromBarryGrant/Demon Instruction Manuals/Idle-Eze-Addendum.pdf
Lars. Are you there?
- Thread starter Sky65
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TimAT
Addict, Cruise-In Bird-Run 1 Veteran
I'm not Lars, but I've got a Demon carb with the Idle-Eze in it. Works great. I'm one of those with enough cam that it drives a carb crazy. It took me a little bit to get on the how it all works, but it's a very good system IMHO. Beats the snot out of drilling holes in throttle plates to get a decent idle and no stumble off idle.
BG has had the IdleEZ system on the market for a few years now. It seems to sell carbs for them, and that's the whole idea with this marketing gimmick.
I've never seen a street-driven car that needed holes drilled in the throttle plates or that had a need for the IdleEZ system. In every case I've seen where the owner found a need for drilled plates or a vacuum bleed (i.e. IdleEZ) due to a "huge cam" the problem was that the secondary idle speed had not been correctly set, thus requiring excessive throttle opening on the primary side.
If you set and balance the primary & secondary idle speeds (throttle openings) correctly, you can obtain .020" max transition slot exposure on the primary side without problems, even with very radical cams. I advocate that people close the IdleEZ completely and correctly tune their carb instead of using this BandAid.
(On a related note from personal experience: Holley makes an 830cfm 4150HP carb, designated as their "NASCAR" carb. This carb comes from the factory with drilled throttle blades, assuming that it will be used on engines with radical cams. We installed one of these carbs on an exceptionally radical 540 ci BBC that had been dyno'd at 720 hp, and it ran okay. After correctly tuning the carb, it was impossible to get the engine idle speed down below 1200 rpm due to the leakage through the drilled throttles. We replaced the throttles with standard throttles, correctly set the secondary and primary idle speeds, curved the distributor, and were able to get the engine to idle below 1000 rpm - the best idle the engine has ever had)
Lars
Last edited:
kwplot34
Heart Attack
Lar's how about a little explanation on how to properly do this. I have used the secondary setting to help with idle,but not sure on how to properly do this.
Drop me an e-mail request for my BG Carb setup and installation papers - the procedure is outlined in detail in those papers along with photos of the process:
[email protected]
Lars
[email protected]
Lars
pcf_mark
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2008
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I am not an expert like Lars but I have the same experience on the drilled blades. I have a 950HP carb which has holes in the blades from the factory.
After setting the rear blade just barely open - t-slot peaking but not exposed I could not figure out why I could remove the front idle screw. I installed pop rivets in the holes in the throttle blades (cheap, easy and I could un-do it!) and this removed the extra idle air. Then I opened the front screw until it idled then I took the carb off. Looking at the t-slot exposed in the front I had about .030 - .035". I opened up the rear idle stop until about .010" of the t-slot was exposed. I then closed the front idle stop a corresponding amount until the only about .020" of the front t-slot was exposed. When I re-installed I was with a 1/8 of a turn on the idle speed screw. Then I worked the idle mix screws for highest vacuum on all four corners and it was amazing how a very slight change in these screws could be seen.
This combined with manifold vacuum to the distributor took me from 11" of idle vacuum to 14" with .630" lift/244 duration cam and it made a startling improvement in drivability. With more of the t-slot covered the part throttle is crisper.
After setting the rear blade just barely open - t-slot peaking but not exposed I could not figure out why I could remove the front idle screw. I installed pop rivets in the holes in the throttle blades (cheap, easy and I could un-do it!) and this removed the extra idle air. Then I opened the front screw until it idled then I took the carb off. Looking at the t-slot exposed in the front I had about .030 - .035". I opened up the rear idle stop until about .010" of the t-slot was exposed. I then closed the front idle stop a corresponding amount until the only about .020" of the front t-slot was exposed. When I re-installed I was with a 1/8 of a turn on the idle speed screw. Then I worked the idle mix screws for highest vacuum on all four corners and it was amazing how a very slight change in these screws could be seen.
This combined with manifold vacuum to the distributor took me from 11" of idle vacuum to 14" with .630" lift/244 duration cam and it made a startling improvement in drivability. With more of the t-slot covered the part throttle is crisper.
pcf -
Your observations mirror exactly what I've seen - set the carb up right and don't drill any bleed holes (or create a bleed with an IdleEZ) if you want to obtain best idle and performance. Setting the carb up right includes working with the secondary idle speed to create equal idle airflow through the primary and secondary sides while limiting transition slot exposure to less than .020" :thumbs:
Your observations mirror exactly what I've seen - set the carb up right and don't drill any bleed holes (or create a bleed with an IdleEZ) if you want to obtain best idle and performance. Setting the carb up right includes working with the secondary idle speed to create equal idle airflow through the primary and secondary sides while limiting transition slot exposure to less than .020" :thumbs: