Hydro assist cylinder

Twin_Turbo said:
No idea, pull it apart and measure the piston :)
Click to expand...


Its welded together. You can't get at it unless you carefully cut it at the weld with a cutting disk.

I have my original one sitting around i could do a post mortem on. I can at least measure the stroke for now.
 
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turtlevette said:
Its welded together. You can't get at it unless you carefully cut it at the weld with a cutting disk.

I have my original one sitting around i could do a post mortem on. I can at least measure the stroke for now.
Click to expand...

Damn, all these years and I never took a close look at that. I have one with a slight leak and saw some rebuilt units for sale on ebay. I thought I would just rebuild it myself. Wrong! Homie don't do welding.....:clobbered:

BTW....Glad to see you back Turtle.....It's been a little slow around here lately:D. ,,, :stirpot:

Bullshark
 
Bullshark said:
Damn, all these years and I never took a close look at that. I have one with a slight leak and saw some rebuilt units for sale on ebay. I thought I would just rebuild it myself. Wrong! Homie don't do welding.....:clobbered:
Click to expand...


Well, replacing the shaft seal will probably fix the leak just fine. After many years the internal bore can corrode resulting in a loss of performance similiar to how the calipers corrode and leak. There could be a lot of fluid leaking by that internal piston and you wouldn't even notice it that much because of the sheer volume of oil thats flowing.

After rebuilding my shaft seal and valve about 6 times i just decided to splurge on a SS relined unit from VBP as well as a new valve and used box from a low mileage car. The damn thing steers pretty darn nice now. Not overassisted, just right like your steering a small sports car with manual steering. Perfect.
 
turtlevette said:
Twin_Turbo said:
No idea, pull it apart and measure the piston :)
Click to expand...


Its welded together. You can't get at it unless you carefully cut it at the weld with a cutting disk.

I have my original one sitting around i could do a post mortem on. I can at least measure the stroke for now.
Click to expand...


I know it's welded, that's why I said pull it apart. I don't think anyone here has cut theirs up just to take a peek inside. You can measure the stroke without opening the thing up. You could also push it all the way in, then suck up fluid by pulling the piston out and then using a measuring cup or cylinder to find out how much fluid you have in it. With the stroke known it's easy to figure out how large the piston is.

As for the leaks, if the rod is pitted you can replace the seals but it will leak again in no time.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
I know it's welded, that's why I said pull it apart. .
Click to expand...

Pull it apart normally referrs to something that is designed to disassemble. Cut it apart normally referrs to something welded.

Twin_Turbo said:
I don't think anyone here has cut theirs up just to take a peek inside. You can measure the stroke without opening the thing up. .
Click to expand...
Tomorrow i'll push the piston all the way in and then out and take the mesurements.

Twin_Turbo said:
You could also push it all the way in, then suck up fluid by pulling the piston out and then using a measuring cup or cylinder to find out how much fluid you have in it. With the stroke known it's easy to figure out how large the piston is..
Click to expand...
That won't work if there is any leakage at all past the internal piston or shaft seal. It ain't gonna pull a vacuum.

Twin_Turbo said:
As for the leaks, if the rod is pitted you can replace the seals but it will leak again in no time.
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The shaft appears to be a polished high carbon steel if not stainless. Mine is not pitted. If any would be mine would. You can rebuild the shaft seal forever and prevent leaks. Its just that the internal piston may have a lot of blow by after many years of wear and corrosion.
 
Thanks for the English lesson :rolleyes:

I've seen shafts that were nicked or pitted, possibly from road debris but still, it would damage the seal and it would leak again in no time.
 
Almost all hydraulic cylinder rods are hard chrome plated and polished. Nicks and pits can be leveled and polished, won't be as good as new, but might not seep a lot either.

About the only rods I have ever seen that are not chromed are the jacks in engine hoists and cheaper floor jacks. They perform leakfree for a long time, but should be stored in the retracted position.
 
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