How to adjust TV cable

[BangkokDean]

I have been in touch with Tim and he has been very helpful. He has suggested that I back the TV cable off a little. I just had a good look at the TV cable but don’t see how to adjust it? There is a nut but a 7/16, 1/2, 11mm or a 12mm wrench doesn't fit. I tried turning it with pliers but it did not seem to do anything and I did not want to harm the outer cable.

I have asked Tim but I am not sure the pictures went by PM.

 

[mrvette]

See that red/orange button on the side of the large cube the cable goes through, that is what grabs the cable....so you push that in, and yes, it's a tough push.....that releases the cable, and it springs back out to grab...the typical adjustment is to release the cable and pull it out toward the rear of the car, and about an inch or so, release button, and open t-body all the way, pulling on the cable end, which goes tight, and the shroud snaps along a few notches......that get's you pretty damn close on the adjustment....

+- one notch will get you in position....


IF you pull on the cable with it off the t-body you will feel a very weak spring for the first bit of travel when pulling on it, then it gets tougher...at the point it gets tougher is where the t-body stud should be when it's relaxed/closed.....


:gurney::drink:

 

[TimAT]

When you push the tab in the cable will jump forward- pull it back with the tab pushed down then give it WOT on the pedal (not running!). It will self adjust to it's happy spot. Then you can fine tune it +/- 2 clicks either way.
Make sure you get WOT on the pedal- visually verify it. Pull the intake hose and look while someone stands on the pedal.

 

[BangkokDean]

Many thanks guys I will work on that tomorrow. BTW how do you pull the black plastic TV end off the linkage, I don't want to brake it?

 

[TimAT]

It snaps over a T headed pin. Hold the throttle linkage and push the black cable end forward. It'll pop off the pin.
You don't need to disconnect it to adjust the cable.

 

[mrvette]

It snaps over a T headed pin. Hold the throttle linkage and push the black cable end forward. It'll pop off the pin.
You don't need to disconnect it to adjust the cable.

Correct about lack of need to adjust, but I always do to ensure I have a'snug' tug on the cable, taking up that weak/slack spring you can feel it easy by tugging on the disconnected cable....the stud on the t-body I refer to as a nail head type stud....

:beer:

 

[bobs77vet]

BTO has great instructions on adjust the TV cable, you have to get this right or you can burn up a 700r4, and once you have it right I actually measure the cable detent end from the bracket and made a note of it for future reference. I actually bought a pressure gauge for setting it the first time on my 7004r install

 

[BangkokDean]

Today I adjusted the TV cable according to instructions provide, first I made sure WOT was correct and it was shy so I adjusted it. Then I held the throttle to full WOT and released outer cable by pushing on the D hold down and the TV cable moved forward. I checked to see that the TV was tight at WOT and it is. Then I drove the truck in drive 1 and drive 2 just up the street and it seems much better, it still shifts quick 1st to 2nd but it feels better overall. I will try driving longer but only when traffic is lighter.

Now I need to find out why the motor dies when hot? It starts right back up but will stall again if I don’t hold the gas pedal when stopping with one foot on the brake pedal.

It stalls using both systems Gasoline or LPG.

 

[mrvette]

Today I adjusted the TV cable according to instructions provide, first I made sure WOT was correct and it was shy so I adjusted it. Then I held the throttle to full WOT and released outer cable by pushing on the D hold down and the TV cable moved forward. I checked to see that the TV was tight at WOT and it is. Then I drove the truck in drive 1 and drive 2 just up the street and it seems much better, it still shifts quick 1st to 2nd but it feels better overall. I will try driving longer but only when traffic is lighter.

Now I need to find out why the motor dies when hot? It starts right back up but will stall again if I don’t hold the gas pedal when stopping with one foot on the brake pedal.

It stalls using both systems Gasoline or LPG.

That was one of my main complaints about the 700 trans in my '72 vette, It would upshift into second before I was across an intersection on light acceleration, with my 336 rear gearset, I found the first gear almost useless.....

:hissyfit:

 

[TimAT]

The factory setup for a 700-R4 was that it would be out of 1st gear between 12 and 15 MPH. Low speed, yep. But low gear in a 700 is 3.08- add the torque convertor on that and low works out to about 6.12. Now add tire size and the rear axle on that and it needs out of low pretty quick to keep the RPM down. Remember too that when GM came up with that trans, they were looking at mileage and EPA too.

The fix for coming out of 1st so quick is either a 2 series rear gear that's a dud as far as performance, or you can make it hang in there a little longer with a shift kit. Still going to be early compared to the 3 speed autos, and a bit earlier than a 200-4R but with the gear ratios that GM designed into it, it's as good as it's going to get.

:drink:

 

[BangkokDean]

The factory setup for a 700-R4 was that it would be out of 1st gear between 12 and 15 MPH. Low speed, yep. But low gear in a 700 is 3.08- add the torque convertor on that and low works out to about 6.12. Now add tire size and the rear axle on that and it needs out of low pretty quick to keep the RPM down. Remember too that when GM came up with that trans, they were looking at mileage and EPA too.

The fix for coming out of 1st so quick is either a 2 series rear gear that's a dud as far as performance, or you can make it hang in there a little longer with a shift kit. Still going to be early compared to the 3 speed autos, and a bit earlier than a 200-4R but with the gear ratios that GM designed into it, it's as good as it's going to get.

:drink:

Tim, my diff ratio is 3.42:1. does this effect installing a shift kit?

 

[TimAT]

None at all. A shift kit will change the timing and feel of the shifts. It will make the shifts happen a little later (faster road speed), and much more positive. Positive is a good thing- a soft mushy shift might make for a nice ride, but just like any clutch, they don't like the slipping and sliding.

I don't build as many transmissions as I used to, but I still won't build one without a shift kit. I want it to last.

 

[BangkokDean]

None at all. A shift kit will change the timing and feel of the shifts. It will make the shifts happen a little later (faster road speed), and much more positive. Positive is a good thing- a soft mushy shift might make for a nice ride, but just like any clutch, they don't like the slipping and sliding.

I don't build as many transmissions as I used to, but I still won't build one without a shift kit. I want it to last.

Great news, I cant wait to get it installed. Now if I can get the motor to keep running...lol

 

[mrvette]

None at all. A shift kit will change the timing and feel of the shifts. It will make the shifts happen a little later (faster road speed), and much more positive. Positive is a good thing- a soft mushy shift might make for a nice ride, but just like any clutch, they don't like the slipping and sliding.

I don't build as many transmissions as I used to, but I still won't build one without a shift kit. I want it to last.

Great news, I cant wait to get it installed. Now if I can get the motor to keep running...lol

Yes, first the engine, then the trans, then the diffy, that's the way it goes.....:nuts: but really first should be the BRAKES!!!!!!:crap:

and my facorite shift kits for years now is the Trans-Go kit.....not the simplest gig to install, but I suspect you can do it....I put one in the MHome 700 trans some years ago, does fine.....

:clap: