Kid Vette
Master-Baiter
I just broke off one of the rear wheel studs. Is it true it can be replaced without pulling the spindle? Do I need to worry about the bearings while I beat it out? I need 7/16-20 thread x 1 3/4 long, .480 knurl; correct?
Good news...:thumbs:..... what size did you end up using ? Just the stock ones for now ? Are you planning on using stronger better stuff when you rebuild the arms ??
Also, I don't really get the fascination with bigger studs, the bearing supports are held on with four 3/8 dia bolts. Looks like if an upgrade is needed, it's needed there.
Yes, I just did stock replacement for now. I'll go with larger studs when I do the TAs. I would like to open the holes up in a drill press. I'm lousy at eyeballing perpendicularity with a hand held drill.Good news...:thumbs:..... what size did you end up using ? Just the stock ones for now ? Are you planning on using stronger better stuff when you rebuild the arms ??
Also, I don't really get the fascination with bigger studs, the bearing supports are held on with four 3/8 dia bolts. Looks like if an upgrade is needed, it's needed there.
The trailing arm actually provides very little support for the bearing housing.
The main function of the trailing arm is to provide centering support ie. front to rear stabilization, not side loading. The large force vectors are at the strut and half shaft. There will be no large momental forces between the trailing arm and bearing housing only fore aft loads ie shear loading. Hell, the t/a is so wimpy it just conformes to whatever camber the wheel is set at. It was intentionally designed this way.
That being said, i still agree with you. I don't see anyone doing this mod using their car for racing.
But it can be very important for people running spacers or wheel adapters, especially those that are not hub centric. Shifting the load out further on the stud puts huge moments on the stud and the worst are impact loads from driving on rough pothole filled roads rather than racing.
I learned this the experimental way when 2 studs snapped when putting about 10 ft pounds of torque on them. I was dangerously close to losing a wheel.
The four 3/8 bolts I am talking about are 3 inches long and attach the caliper bracket to the trailing arm. When you apply your brakes, these 4 bolts counter the torsional shear from the caliper and, in addition, counter the jounce forces.
The four 3/8 bolts I am talking about are 3 inches long and attach the caliper bracket to the trailing arm. When you apply your brakes, these 4 bolts counter the torsional shear from the caliper and, in addition, counter the jounce forces.
exactly. It's all shear load which bolts do very well. It's the tensile loads that snap bolts.