Fuel pump pushrod warning

Belgian1979vette

Belgian1979vette

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Apr 4, 2008
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Koersel/Belgium
Probably some of you already know this, but some might not.

I run a mechanical roller cam (steel) and therefor used the required bronze tipped fuel pump push rod. This was not a el cheapo part, but a Crane one (before they went bankrupt).

The pushrod was in there for only 1000 miles and I took it out today in my EFI conversion.

Well, the tip had substantially worn. I was having some noise in my engine which sounded like a lifter, but probably it was the fuel pump.
 
I have a roller hydraulic, never had a problem with my standard steel fuel pump push rod since 2005, pushing my heavy ultra hp 210gph pump spring.

Makes sense that bronze would wear away fast. How is that even supposed to help anything btw?
 
I had the same problem (before I went to an a1000 pump).
The use of the bronze?
I guess is preferable to replace the rod instead camshaft.
 
Steel pushrod and stock fuel pump wiped my cast comp cam. Did a bronze tip on our billet core comp cam in the other car. Ill be checking this soon after hearing about yours
I thought I read something about composite fuel pump pushrods? havent seen one though
 
I just ordered a GM ZZ383 this afternoon, should arrive in about 1 week. Do I need a new pushrod? Might as well replace the old one (30k on the engine) but not sure which one to get. Just putting a list of what I need to order and what I can use from my original setup.
 
A steel billet cam, as used in all of the mech. roller cams, cannot use the factory iron pushrod.

They need to use either a bronze tipped one or a composite. As I said, the billet one (quality piece btw) had noticable wear and I think that within the next 500-1000 km I would have run into issues.

I hear good things about the composite. Haven't used it myself.

I also hear people talk about a roller, but it requires you to install a bolt to prevent it from turning. Personally I think a roller would be a bad move, considering the amount of roller lifters failing.

Not sure what causes the wear, but I think it doesn't get enough oil on the pushrod cam interface. This would be problematic for the roller item also.
 
I don't have a rear anti-roll bar. In it's place, I have an aluminum bracket to which I have mounted an electric fuel pump. It's an Aeromotive Street and Strip pump. Also, a large fuel filter. I also have the Aeromotive speed controller for the pump. The speed controller senses rpm speed from an HEI distributor signal. The pump runs at slow speed at idle. It gradually ramps up speed until about 2500 rpm when the pump goes into full speed/pressure. When I turn the engine off, the speed controller turns off the fuel pump. FYI
 
gdh said:
I just ordered a GM ZZ383 this afternoon, should arrive in about 1 week. Do I need a new pushrod? Might as well replace the old one (30k on the engine) but not sure which one to get. Just putting a list of what I need to order and what I can use from my original setup.
Click to expand...

What's wrong with your 30k mile engine?
 
Broke a valve spring, dropped a valve. It's the original block so will drop in the new crate and rebuild the original if I ever decide to sell.
 
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