Found the clunk in rear

[BangkokDean]

I have this clunking sound in the rear and after jacking the car up the clunk seams to be coming from the rear wheel spline axle in the swing arm, not sure what it is called. Is there a fix for these or do I need to replace the whole assembly including the bearings and seals?

 

[MYBAD79]

To make sure the clunk is really coming from the wheel bearing assembly I'd disconnect the half shaft - it's only four bolts holding it to the spindle flange.....

Here's a few photos that give you a better idea of what's inside the bearing assembly....

Spindle and one of the wheel bearings 9there's an inner and outer)
.


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Spindle and two wheel bearings and spindle flange

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Here's the entire assembly without the trailing arm in the way....


.

There really is not a whole lot that can cause a clunking noise, maybe the spindle nut is loose ?? If the wheel bearings are shot you can feel the wheel moving when you have the car on the jack - just grab the wheel and push/pull it around..... if you can move the wheel in/out it's either the spindle nut or bad bearings....

 

[BangkokDean]

Thanks for the pictures. There don't seam to be any play when rocking the wheel from 9 to 3 o-clock only when moving the wheel clock wise to counter clock wise in a rapid movement.
When under the car you can feel the clunking when you hold the half shafts and someone does the wheel turning.

A few months back Kid Vette had some spindle ends for sale that he had bought for his car that were for the 80-81 automatic rear. He then had to order the ones for the manual trans rear. He had posted them for sale on this forum and I bought them, now it looks like I need them.

I will install them and see if they solve the problem.

BTW it looks like the spindle ends are different from your 79 shown in your picture.

 

[clutchdust]

Sure it's not a bad u-joint? I had one go shitty on me years ago and it was very similar. It didn't knock when rocking the wheel at either 3 and 9 or 6 and 12 but there was a noticeable knock when rotating the wheel clockwise or counter. I only got the clunk once in either direction as I took up the slack but I could rotate the wheel probably 5-10* back and forth before hitting the friction of the differential.
It took me a little while to finally find it but there was a tell-tale ring of shiny grease that sprayed out of the joint on the underside of the body.
That would be my guess.

 

[BangkokDean]

Sure it's not a bad u-joint? I had one go shitty on me years ago and it was very similar. It didn't knock when rocking the wheel at either 3 and 9 or 6 and 12 but there was a noticeable knock when rotating the wheel clockwise or counter. I only got the clunk once in either direction as I took up the slack but I could rotate the wheel probably 5-10* back and forth before hitting the friction of the differential.
It took me a little while to finally find it but there was a tell-tale ring of shiny grease that sprayed out of the joint on the underside of the body.
That would be my guess.

Thanks when I drop the half shafts I will check the U-joints also.

 

[MYBAD79]

I didn't think the spindle flanges are different, the flange in that picture looks a little like the front diff flange where the driveshaft connects to the diff. ???

U-joints is a good guess, definitely check those. Is it the sme clunk on both sides??

 

[Kid Vette]

I didn't think the spindle flanges are different, the flange in that picture looks a little like the front diff flange where the driveshaft connects to the diff. ???

U-joints is a good guess, definitely check those. Is it the sme clunk on both sides??

Yep, they changed the spindle flanges when they went to the aluminum Dana 44 diff. 80 & 81 automatics used 1330 u-joints. 80 & 81 manual and all 82s used 1350s.

 

[MYBAD79]

I see.... Now there is no flange to flange connection like on the older style, makes sense, they tried to make it cheaper ..... as usual LOL

But yes, there is a good chance either the spindle nut is loose, the splines worn, the U-joint strap bolts could be loose, the u-joints worn etc.....

AutoZone sells solid Ujoints, Rockauto has good prices on Spicer joints.....if you need parts send me a pm.....

 

[mrvette]

At MY age, somehow the clunk in my rear is NOT the car....



Don't ask, please......:crap:

 

[BangkokDean]

I see.... Now there is no flange to flange connection like on the older style, makes sense, they tried to make it cheaper ..... as usual LOL

But yes, there is a good chance either the spindle nut is loose, the splines worn, the U-joint strap bolts could be loose, the u-joints worn etc.....

AutoZone sells solid Ujoints, Rockauto has good prices on Spicer joints.....if you need parts send me a pm.....

Many thanks for the offer,but U-joints are manufactured here and are good quality for export. Now lets see what I find when I get everything dropped down.

Gene, all I can say is(too much info)''''lol

 

[BangkokDean]

I didn't think the spindle flanges are different, the flange in that picture looks a little like the front diff flange where the driveshaft connects to the diff. ???

U-joints is a good guess, definitely check those. Is it the sme clunk on both sides??

Yep, they changed the spindle flanges when they went to the aluminum Dana 44 diff. 80 & 81 automatics used 1330 u-joints. 80 & 81 manual and all 82s used 1350s.

The funny thing is when I bought the flanges from you some how I thought I should buy them. Keeping in mind I have never bought anything from a private seller on the net before. Now if I only could buy lottery tickets....lol

But I will say some on this forum (Karsten) have assisted me in shipping items bought from vendors on line.:beer:

 

[GTR1999]

I have found play in the splines on some spindles and flanges. Turning the wheel CW then CCW causes a "lash" and you can feel the movement. I would look at the spindle splines by removing the spindle flange. Eye ball the splines from the end to make sure they are not twisting. Import spindles have issues.

 

[Kid Vette]

I see.... Now there is no flange to flange connection like on the older style, makes sense, they tried to make it cheaper ..... as usual LOL

But yes, there is a good chance either the spindle nut is loose, the splines worn, the U-joint strap bolts could be loose, the u-joints worn etc.....

AutoZone sells solid Ujoints, Rockauto has good prices on Spicer joints.....if you need parts send me a pm.....

So what does the old style spindle flange do other than add unsprung weight?

 

[BangkokDean]

I have found play in the splines on some spindles and flanges. Turning the wheel CW then CCW causes a "lash" and you can feel the movement. I would look at the spindle splines by removing the spindle flange. Eye ball the splines from the end to make sure they are not twisting. Import spindles have issues.

Thanks for your input, Well I have the new flanges on and everything is good. The spindles are in good shape for being the originals plus the U joints are new.

After having the front end aligned while the vette was out of service it now tracks straight. But there is play in the steering and on the highway it wants to wander so I will now change the steering box to a power box getting rid of the old system.

 

[mrvette]

I have found play in the splines on some spindles and flanges. Turning the wheel CW then CCW causes a "lash" and you can feel the movement. I would look at the spindle splines by removing the spindle flange. Eye ball the splines from the end to make sure they are not twisting. Import spindles have issues.

Thanks for your input, Well I have the new flanges on and everything is good. The spindles are in good shape for being the originals plus the U joints are new.

After having the front end aligned while the vette was out of service it now tracks straight. But there is play in the steering and on the highway it wants to wander so I will now change the steering box to a power box getting rid of the old system.

Yeh, if you can get the correct Jeep box, I fail to see why a plate over the frame on the outside, and using the same 4 bolt mounting that Jeeps used, wouldn't work for us, I dunno why Borgeson mods the boxes to fit our 3 bolt mounting pattern....say 1/8" steel square, mark, drill off the box, position the box drill frame, bolt it up.....:gurney:

having said that, I put in a rack about 11 years ago, works fine, ....:devil:

 

[MYBAD79]

So what does the old style spindle flange do other than add unsprung weight?

Think the weight difference is significant? I think it's difficult to say how much weight is saves, with the new style the spindle flange is a little longer (otherwise the half shaft would have to be longer) to make up the distance. .... I'm guessing it's within 1/2 lbs.....

 

[mrvette]

So what does the old style spindle flange do other than add unsprung weight?

Think the weight difference is significant? I think it's difficult to say how much weight is saves, with the new style the spindle flange is a little longer (otherwise the half shaft would have to be longer) to make up the distance. .... I'm guessing it's within 1/2 lbs.....

U gone through hell or a hell of a lot less......:lol::stirpot:

 

[BangkokDean]

I have found play in the splines on some spindles and flanges. Turning the wheel CW then CCW causes a "lash" and you can feel the movement. I would look at the spindle splines by removing the spindle flange. Eye ball the splines from the end to make sure they are not twisting. Import spindles have issues.

Thanks for your input, Well I have the new flanges on and everything is good. The spindles are in good shape for being the originals plus the U joints are new.

After having the front end aligned while the vette was out of service it now tracks straight. But there is play in the steering and on the highway it wants to wander so I will now change the steering box to a power box getting rid of the old system.

Yeh, if you can get the correct Jeep box, I fail to see why a plate over the frame on the outside, and using the same 4 bolt mounting that Jeeps used, wouldn't work for us, I dunno why Borgeson mods the boxes to fit our 3 bolt mounting pattern....say 1/8" steel square, mark, drill off the box, position the box drill frame, bolt it up.....:gurney:

having said that, I put in a rack about 11 years ago, works fine, ....:devil:

I will be looking for a jap steering box over here that should do the job, there are several old mustangs using a jap box with out a problem.Or I might use the box that I took off the 56 truck that had a 3/4 ton frame from a 83 chevy truck.

There is a 80 corvette here that has a rack and pinion that he bought from the states (steroids) that works great and he had no problem clearing his hooker side pipes. I would also consider a flaming river setup but I understand that there is problems clearing the hookers with that setup.

Looking at options now.