Fender flares install - photos

[MYBAD79]

These are 2" flares without the mudflaps that I bought from Vanacor. I thought I posted this info before but couldn't find it when I was looking for it tonight... so here we go:



.narrower at the bottom but wider at the top.... shows more tire than the stock fender but covers it at the top. very cool



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This is a 295-50-15 tire on the stock aluminum rim with a 2" spacer and the stock fender:

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I cut a section from the new quarter to make it fit like the L88 flares - there was no reason to cut out the stock quarter. While the flare was clamped into place I drilled holes for self tapping screws (needed during final install)
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after dry fitting I sanded the mating surfaces with 60 grit


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covered both pieces with Evercoat SMC adhesive:

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Glued in place and bolted to the stock quarter with above mentioned self tapping screws:


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Fiberglass putty/body filler:

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more filler:

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First coat of primer. Note the high spots around the fender radius

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Sanded the high spots down:

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Last coat of primer after wetsanding. The panel is still wet, looks like clearcoat...



Two years later with fresh paint:



:thumbs::trumpet::thumbs::trumpet::bump:

 

[gkz]

Looks good; thanks for posting. Your pictures answers my question of blending the bumpers.

 

[mrvette]

Karsten, you have had NO troubles with that stock rim and that 2" offset to the outside??? I very amazed, as with that wheel centerline moved outward like that you putting one hell of a torsion/twist load on that bearing...NO???

so the axel bearings would be under stresses similar to a circle all the time....

I was very careful about keep same wheel centerline when changing to the wider rims....yet you seem to be getting away with it....what am I missing???


:crap:

 

[racervette69]

Nice, very nice job. Really like the flares

 

[MYBAD79]

....what am I missing???

:crap:

You're correct, the wheel centerline moved outward 2" and it increases the load on the bearing.
The stock wheel and bearing setup is good for more than 100K miles, it's lasting a good time even under racing/autoX conditions when people beat the snot out of these cars.
Since I am not racing the car I would think that with the increased bearing load I'm still getting 50K miles or more out of these spindles/bearings that I just rebuilt.... heck, if I'm getting 30K miles out of these bearings it'll be years before I have to rebuild them again...

The living proof is Gkull: he's using 3" (or 2.5") spacers with 11X17 wheels and he abuses the car quiet a bit...

 

[mrvette]

....what am I missing???

:crap:

You're correct, the wheel centerline moved outward 2" and it increases the load on the bearing.
The stock wheel and bearing setup is good for more than 100K miles, it's lasting a good time even under racing/autoX conditions when people beat the snot out of these cars.
Since I am not racing the car I would think that with the increased bearing load I'm still getting 50K miles or more out of these spindles/bearings that I just rebuilt.... heck, if I'm getting 30K miles out of these bearings it'll be years before I have to rebuild them again...

The living proof is Gkull: he's using 3" (or 2.5") spacers with 11X17 wheels and he abuses the car quiet a bit...

Well, yeh, but I looking at the centerline position, and preferring it be close to stock... if no sway bar I know of, and a moved ebrake bracket on a offset arm, no reason a 11+ wide wheel would not fit easy, really....I think there is like 1"+ from the rear frame rail to the inside of my rim, and I have 9.5" rims and 275 tires on the stock centerline.....

:nuts:

 

[Yellow73SB]

....what am I missing???

:crap:

You're correct, the wheel centerline moved outward 2" and it increases the load on the bearing.
The stock wheel and bearing setup is good for more than 100K miles, it's lasting a good time even under racing/autoX conditions when people beat the snot out of these cars.
Since I am not racing the car I would think that with the increased bearing load I'm still getting 50K miles or more out of these spindles/bearings that I just rebuilt.... heck, if I'm getting 30K miles out of these bearings it'll be years before I have to rebuild them again...

The living proof is Gkull: he's using 3" (or 2.5") spacers with 11X17 wheels and he abuses the car quiet a bit...

Well, yeh, but I looking at the centerline position, and preferring it be close to stock... if no sway bar I know of, and a moved ebrake bracket on a offset arm, no reason a 11+ wide wheel would not fit easy, really....I think there is like 1"+ from the rear frame rail to the inside of my rim, and I have 9.5" rims and 275 tires on the stock centerline.....

:nuts:

This is a 10" wheel 4" BS and a 13" overall width under stock fenders

 

[MYBAD79]

This is a 10" wheel 4" BS and a 13" overall width under stock fenders

looks very familiar...LOL ...

 

[COURTNEYBLACK69]

Very Nice,

Where Did Youbuy These? Please Reply.

 

[MYBAD79]

Very Nice,

Where Did Youbuy These? Please Reply.

First sentence in the initial post ..... :thumbs:

Vanacor:

http://www.merchantcircle.com/business/Vanacor.Corvette.Parts.985-758-7041

 

[BBShark]

How thick are those Vanacor flares? I've got some (unknown mfg) and they are about 1/16 inch thick.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

What is "SMC"? I googled the evercoat, and came to that term - yet no one says what it is....

 

[BBShark]

Sheet Molding Compound

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sheet_moulding_compound

 

[MYBAD79]

Mold release stuff is integrated.... That's what many say to describe it...... The adhesive must be compatible, otherwise it will not stick or separate later.....

Haven't clicked BBshark's link yet, I think GM used this stuff since '73 ......

 

[MYBAD79]

How thick are those Vanacor flares? I've got some (unknown mfg) and they are about 1/16 inch thick.

That's thin....... I think the Vanacors flares are like 1/8" .....

You know..... As much as I bitch about shit that is poor quality and crap that doesn't fit........ Vanacor's fiberglass parts fit pretty darn good.... Lol