Fender flare hack

[rtj]

I finished making a birdbath out of a huge rock and decided it was time to slow down on home improvements. So, maybe I’ll get cars running.

I had tires sticking out on the front.



But, decided to salvage the $200 flares. This is them with 1.25 stand-offs.



Now 1” stand offs. I’ve since dropped the front and rear posts to 0.75” (fore and aft). Ready to start fiberglass (and probably foam filler).



I had chopped off the old (and too small) flares when I installed the screw adjusters on the trailing arm. And was going to glass them back on.



But, I need them removable. Chris was kind enough to take a measurement for me and photo (Thanks Chris!). So I got eBay flares shipped for $260.



This, trailing arm spherical bearings, a new battery and I’ll put some miles on that differential.

 

[MYBAD79]

damn how wide is this beast now? still running those 325s on the rear? looking pretty good .,.

 

[vette427sbc]

Excited to see what you do for the fronts as I think Ill be trying a similar technique to the rear of mine... Looking good :thumbs:

 

[rtj]

damn how wide is this beast now? still running those 325s on the rear? looking pretty good .,.

Yeah, same drag radials on the back, very dangerous in the rain. I went with 3” backspace for lots of brake clearance. I can throw a tape measure on it tonight.

I really noticed a difference cornering when those rims went on.

 

[rtj]

Excited to see what you do for the fronts as I think Ill be trying a similar technique to the rear of mine... Looking good :thumbs:

The stand off posts came from McMaster. I was going to make them until I saw how reasonable they sold them. There is a green mamba C3 in the misc vintage racing thread has a method that might work.

Here is the video. Looks like he used great stuff.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zNu38Tx8Lo[/ame]

 

[rtj]

Mybad79, looks like just under 76” measured to the outer sidewalls. Are you finished the convertible yet?

Slow progress, probably didn’t need foam fill. Let the foam cure after sanding someone said.

 

[rtj]

The foam was so thin I removed it.

 

[OZgreen69]

Good job ! And I stand by for the trailing arm bearing project, as I have a pair of trailing arm on the bench at the moment ....

 

[rtj]

Well, there is a lot of sanding left to do, but it might end up okay. Good enough for this car anyway.

I started removing the TA’s, and the plan was to get the biggest of these that will fit:
QA1 YPB10T YPB-T High-Misalignment Stainless Steel Series Spherical Bearing
or
QA1 COM12T COM-T Commercial Series Spherical Bearing, 1.4375 in. Diameter

The Tom’s ta’s have an odd-ball size if I remember correctly. Speedway has a large selection of those two styles (second one anyway). I’ll buy the biggest and machine adapters. I was thinking of press fitting the sleeves in, but may use set screws and/or tack welds. Suggestions welcome though!

https://www.qa1.net/assets/uploads/documents/general/SphericalBearings_NPB_YPB_Series_Tables.pdf

The 3/4 ID Ypb-t units have 53000 lbs radial load capability.

BBShark has a solution, but it requires cutting off the ta end.

 

[BBShark]

I didn't have to cut the end off. I welded a Johnny Joint sleeve in place of the old sleeve. Not sure the Johnny Joints are available anymore.

 

[rtj]

I didn't have to cut the end off. I welded a Johnny Joint sleeve in place of the old sleeve. Not sure the Johnny Joints are available anymore.

Maybe I misunderstood, the black ring was welded on in place of the old end is what I thought. My description might be lacking.

It looks great, I just don’t want to cut if I don’t have to cut. If they aren’t available, I guess I can’t use them anyway.

 

[phantomjock]

Check out Summit Racing:

SEARCH ON: Currie Enterprises CE-9112P - Currie Johnny Joint Rod Ends

Need to check the sizing.

Cheers - Jim

 

[rtj]

Okay thanks, I have the shocks, calipers, and ta’s to remove, then I’ll be able to get a dimension.

On another note, I was making some braided steel lines and in the past used tape when cutting the over-braid. I don’t know where I saw this, but a hose clamp snugged on before cutting the SS gives you a nice clean cut with a cut-off wheel.


Photo is before cutting.