exhuaust header bolts or studs

keywestjack

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Which do you recommend for Hooker Headers on my 77 rebuilt L48. I was considering Stage 8 locking bolts.
 
Alway use studs if you can. They stay tighter and won't work on the threads in the casting, especially aluminum.
 
Alway use studs if you can. They stay tighter and won't work on the threads in the casting, especially aluminum.

All threaded holes in my aluminum heads (Edelbrock) have stainless helicoil inserts. I thought this was standard ??? Do some aluminum heads have threads cut into bare aluminum ???? I would hope not.....
 
Guess I got lucky :D

Your flange and primary tubes look a lot nicer than mine.... what brand is that ??? Mine are stainless Hookers and although they're very expensive ($1500) ... compared to yours they look like crap..... :blush::sick:
 
Karsten,

These are the coated Headman headers...$500...gotta tell ya, I'm really happy with them. They fit great and about 5 minutes after shutting down the engine, you can grab them with your bare hands, 10 minutes and they're cold to the touch!
 
Alway use studs if you can. They stay tighter and won't work on the threads in the casting, especially aluminum.

All threaded holes in my aluminum heads (Edelbrock) have stainless helicoil inserts. I thought this was standard ??? Do some aluminum heads have threads cut into bare aluminum ???? I would hope not.....

I have PBM StrikeForce aluminum heads and they have no inserts, just bare aluminum threads. I put the whole assembly together about 2½ years ago including Hooker Stainless sidepipes and standard 12 point header bolts using anti-seeze on the bolts and ultra copper sealant and no gaskets. I re-torqued the bots a few times after a few heat cycles each time. The bolts have always been tight and the headers have never leaked. :bump: I did have some people tell me that this combination would not hold up long term, but it has worked for me.:o
 
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