Electric Fans Wiring?
- Thread starter donnie_19
- Start date
denpo
Carburated Nihilist
Blown fuses can be replaced
Blown fusable link can't.
fusable link is a section of smaller wire (higher gauge) along a cable designed to melt at too high amperage. When blown you'll have to change/repair the cable.
As Denpo said it's about a 16g wire hooked to the distribution point, starter or alternator. It feeds to your fusebox and all the accessories. It's designed to melt if something goes dramatically wrong and has non-flamable insulation on it. You can get one at Autozone for about $3 in the aisle with the electrical stuff.
They tend to take a while to burn through as opposed to a fuse that blows fast. Good thing if you have a slip of a srewdriver.
They tend to take a while to burn through as opposed to a fuse that blows fast. Good thing if you have a slip of a srewdriver.
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
OR when changing #1 plug, you allow your Speidel watch band to contact the output stud and frame of the alternator, and it brands your arm.....
:sos::suicide::harhar:
I just use the Cole Hearse manual reset breakers, no fussing with links or fuses if they ever blow.
Remember that always happens at the most inconvenient time. :lol:
:shocking:
Picked up a 40 amp breaker today. That should offer adequate protection for the fans and maybe something else in the future.
Picked up a 40 amp breaker today. That should offer adequate protection for the fans and maybe something else in the future.
Bullshark
Well-known member
Don, You already have a 25 amp fuse in the power legs of each fan circuit. We talked about installing a 12v terminal distribution block vs wiring them to the starter 12v terminal. I thought it would be a good idea to use a fusible link to jumper to the terminal block rather than direct connect, just for added safety, in case Gene showed up with his Spidel watch band.
Each fan has a peak start-up current of ~ 20 to 25 amps with a run current in the neighborhood of 8amps. The beauty of a fusible link is it is cheap and can handle short peak loads without burning out, and also provide a clean short single wire jump to the distribution terminal. You can also use something like a slow-blow high current fuse but that sounded cumbersome for such a short jump. You should always fuse any future loads you may choose to add to the distribution terminal. The 40 amp fuse (breaker) will be at risk of blowing if the two fans should turn on at the same time.
Last edited:
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
I have a serp drive off a L98 engine, and so the main power comes off the alt stud, forward and to the main fan relay on top of the fan housing, right in front of the alt. I did have a 30-40? amp breaker on top of the alt, in the air stream, I thought, but on a hot summer day last year I found the fans quitting, so I just put a 40 amp blade fuse in there....CASE CLOSED....
:devil:
The link wire is generally 4 sizes smaller than the wire it protects.
The only downside to using them is the PITA to replace if they blow. There are a gazillion old cars still sing the original links. I still use them unless I'm totally rewiring.
Newer cars use replaceable slow blow fuses.
Here is a link to some anl, mega, maxi etc style fuses and holders.
https://www.vtewarehouse.com/content/electromech/fuse/fuse.php
I have a spal 16" on a 30amp fuse that is tagged to the a/c compressor. It cycles every 60 seconds or so and has never blown. Lots of inrush current here. It should be wired permanent on with the a/c instead, but I just never bothered to tag the right wire, PITA to find it in the dash.
In other words, fuses don't blow immediately unless a dead short. There are time charts available from the manufacturers for most.
The only downside to using them is the PITA to replace if they blow. There are a gazillion old cars still sing the original links. I still use them unless I'm totally rewiring.
Newer cars use replaceable slow blow fuses.
Here is a link to some anl, mega, maxi etc style fuses and holders.
https://www.vtewarehouse.com/content/electromech/fuse/fuse.php
I have a spal 16" on a 30amp fuse that is tagged to the a/c compressor. It cycles every 60 seconds or so and has never blown. Lots of inrush current here. It should be wired permanent on with the a/c instead, but I just never bothered to tag the right wire, PITA to find it in the dash.
In other words, fuses don't blow immediately unless a dead short. There are time charts available from the manufacturers for most.