Bypassing the headlight switch rheostat

mike76c3

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 5, 2008
Messages
101
Location
So. Cal.
I broke my headlight switch. Since I'm still between jobs, I have lots of time and no money so I decided to take it apart and see if I could make it work. The plastic inside broke, and CA seems to be holding it together. Reassembly seemed to go O.K., with everything working except the dash lights. :confused2: I found this thread:

http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1998&highlight=dimmer

I was thinking that I'd like to bypass the rheostat, which would avoid one of the problems brought up in that thread, as well as
hoping that it would resolve my issue. I read this:

"It looks like just jumpering the terminals "F" and "L" on the switch together would shunt out the rheostat and solve the dimmer heat problem easily."

BUT, I don't have "F" or "L" terminals on my switch. Here's what I have, with the wires that connect to them:

X - white
1 - red
2 - green
3 - empty
4 - brown
5 - orange
6 - light blue

The switch diagram that I found in the Shop Manual says (with my guesses for abbreviations in parenthesis):

X - DM LP FUSED (???)
1 - BATT (battery - it was hot 12v)
2 - PNL LP FUSED (panel lamp - it was hot 12v)
3 -
4 - TL LP (tail lamp)
5 - TL LP FUSED (tail lamp - it was hot 12v)
6 - HD LP (head lamp)

I can't seem to translate all this to figure out what I need to do. Any tips would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike

P.S. I was able to follow the thread to resolve the "other heat issue" and get the headlight relays to work :amazed:
 
Take X and 2 together, see if dimmer works then....just jumper them....

I think lights will work normal but no dimmer,.....see that no lights stay on all the time, obviously.....
 
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