Brake Lines
- Thread starter vette
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Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
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45 double flared non seamless
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
OK good time for me to get smart....
why the different degrees?? just two companies??
and if you use one flare with another coupling, for those silly 8* wouldn't the thing conform anyway??
and what you mean by NON SEAMLESS??? :hissyfit::bonkers:
Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,579
37 degree has a larger sealing surface for the same diameter tubing. 37 deg also called JIC or AN was developed for high pressure hydraulics (JIC) and widely used by the military (AN)
double flares are done because of 2 reasons. 1 the flare has some give and thus less prone to crack and 2 the most important, the lines are not seamless, as in there is a seam in the inside of the tubing. Create a flare surface on it and it will leak. Simply double flare it and the smooth outside becomes the sealing surface, presto...a perfect sealiong surface 45 deg flare
AN & JIC stuff commonly uses flare sleeves to absorb most of the distortion from the flare nut being tightened and trying to twist the flare
double flares are done because of 2 reasons. 1 the flare has some give and thus less prone to crack and 2 the most important, the lines are not seamless, as in there is a seam in the inside of the tubing. Create a flare surface on it and it will leak. Simply double flare it and the smooth outside becomes the sealing surface, presto...a perfect sealiong surface 45 deg flare
AN & JIC stuff commonly uses flare sleeves to absorb most of the distortion from the flare nut being tightened and trying to twist the flare
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
I assumed AN was referring to the O ring type with the bulge in the line backing up the O ring, with nut on top...typical for FI and later steering hoses....
dunno any reference to flare in that setup....
:bonkers:
Maymyvetteliveforever
Well-known member
Don't mean to highjack this thread but is it much cheaper to make your own brake lines than it is to order them from say Classic Tube? I think there complete set comes to around $125.00 or so.
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
I have a double flaring set, and so just buy two 5' brake lines and couple them together, cut/flare as needed at the m/cyl end nice and easy....been that way on the vette for years now, no issues....easy install too, I thought....even did a mid year that way some time ago...no issues....
these guys claiming you have to remove the body to do one are nutz....
:bonkers:
Maymyvetteliveforever
Well-known member
I have to raise the body anyway to do all the mounts so is it more cost effective to go with the complete set?
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
Brake lines here are about a 5 buck part.....I don't see how spending more is going to improve a damn thing.....
:bonkers:
Thats why I wanted to know what the angle was so I could make my own..We have two flareing tools at work 45 and 37..didn't know which one to borrow..
Danny
Red
Well-known member
I have a double flaring set, and so just buy two 5' brake lines and couple them together, cut/flare as needed at the m/cyl end nice and easy....been that way on the vette for years now, no issues....easy install too, I thought....even did a mid year that way some time ago...no issues....
these guys claiming you have to remove the body to do one are nutz....
:bonkers:
Why not couple the two 5' lines using a compression fitting, no flaring required.
Replacing brake lines without removing the body is a no brainer, but fuel lines are another story. Been there-done that.
Interesting info on the flaring angles. I have used the flaring tool rented out at my local Advanced Auto successfully, but never knew what angle it produced. I have since bought a double flaring tool from Harbor freight, but have not needed to use it, and still don't know what angle it is made to produce. I wonder if one angle will conform to fit the other, once drawn tight in a fitting?
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
I have a double flaring set, and so just buy two 5' brake lines and couple them together, cut/flare as needed at the m/cyl end nice and easy....been that way on the vette for years now, no issues....easy install too, I thought....even did a mid year that way some time ago...no issues....
these guys claiming you have to remove the body to do one are nutz....
:bonkers:
Why not couple the two 5' lines using a compression fitting, no flaring required.
Replacing brake lines without removing the body is a no brainer, but fuel lines are another story. Been there-done that.
Interesting info on the flaring angles. I have used the flaring tool rented out at my local Advanced Auto successfully, but never knew what angle it produced. I have since bought a double flaring tool from Harbor freight, but have not needed to use it, and still don't know what angle it is made to produce. I wonder if one angle will conform to fit the other, once drawn tight in a fitting?
I hear a compression fitting is not nearly strong as a flare....and besides the lines come with 2 flares and 2 nutz on them already...one brass coupling and it's done deal....easy as pie....My flaring set is by K-D tools, whoever they are.....AFAIK the same angle as for any older GM car...never had a issue...single or double flare...and about drawing it tight. I dunno why not, and inferred/asked TT above on that point.....
:bonkers::flash:
MYBAD79
Moderator
Most flaring tools produce a 45 degree angle, those that produce a 37 degree flare are usually more expensive - even at Summit I think my 37 degree flaring tool was like $50, the 45 degree tool is $15 or $20 at the local part store...
I would try to reduce the number of joints as much as possible. The brake lines can be replaced with the body in place, done that....
I bought the stainless brake line kit, 5 years old and still shiny
See one of my threads on the 5/8" hex vs 9/16" hex on the stainless braided hoses, I had a leak with the smaller hex that ate into the copper washer.