Auto to Manual, change the starter

denpo

Carburated Nihilist
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Montreal, QC
I'm already slapping myself enough for not checking starter clearance when the engine and bellhousing was out, now, from reading other conversion I read people mentioning the mandatory starter change. Seems to have to do with starter gear type metal.
Do you guys confirm/infirm?
 
you very likely have to change to the other tooth count (153 vs 168) ... after frying two starters I am now a big fan of the mini high torque starters. I currently have a Ebay version that I got for $100 .. so far so good.... if this one fails I'll listen to what Marck says and drop the $289 on a Tilton ...

the insulating blanket really helps to keep the header heat off the starter.....
 
you very likely have to change to the other tooth count (153 vs 168) ... after frying two starters I am now a big fan of the mini high torque starters. I currently have a Ebay version that I got for $100 .. so far so good.... if this one fails I'll listen to what Marck says and drop the $289 on a Tilton ...

the insulating blanket really helps to keep the header heat off the starter.....
Nope, I went from 153 flexplate to 153 flywheel.
The starter was doing fine when car was a auto and looks pretty new, I felt no need to change it.
What I read was about the kind of metal the starter gear was made of.
 
I didn't change the starter when I swapped in the manual in my Corvette, or on my Buick, or in my Chevrolet truck (x4)...
 
Starter drive gear is the same no matter which trans/flexplate/flywheel you have. THe difference would be in the NOSE housing of the starter, depending on 153 or 168 teeth on the flexplate or flywheel.
That said, leaving the front brace off the starter has probably killed as many starters as low voltage.
 
To my limited knowledge, there is no difference in the gear material. I have heard of people breaking the nose of starters, is that what your asking?
 
To my limited knowledge, there is no difference in the gear material. I have heard of people breaking the nose of starters, is that what your asking?

From http://corvettec3.ca/tko.htm :

"NOTE: The starter for an automatic has a different nose cone than that of a standard. You will need to acquire the correct starter for a standard (cast iron cone versus aluminum for automatic)."

Also talked into length here http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-...er-for-keisler-auto-to-manual-conversion.html

Binnie77 says : " The manual starter has a smaller nose (usually steel) than the automatic starters. You can buy the steel nose and swap it out with the aluminum nose on the starter you took off but I discovered the nose costs almost as much as a rebuilt starter. I just went to NAPA and bought the starter for a standard and it works fine."
 
I'm already slapping myself enough for not checking starter clearance when the engine and bellhousing was out, now, from reading other conversion I read people mentioning the mandatory starter change. Seems to have to do with starter gear type metal.
Do you guys confirm/infirm?

So, to your original question, there is no difference in the "starter gear type metal".
 
I've never seen anything but an aluminum nose on a GM starter since they went to block mounted- and I think they did that about the same time they came out with the powerglide. That starter is heavy enough- now add 10 pounds for an iron nose and you'd need a floor jack to change it. Ol' Red has the same starter on it now it had when it was built in late 68. I did change the solenoid a couple of months ago.
 
I've never seen anything but an aluminum nose on a GM starter since they went to block mounted- and I think they did that about the same time they came out with the powerglide. That starter is heavy enough- now add 10 pounds for an iron nose and you'd need a floor jack to change it. Ol' Red has the same starter on it now it had when it was built in late 68. I did change the solenoid a couple of months ago.

My acting as a floor jack daze are OVER with......:waxer::goodnight:
 
No issues. Make sure that clearance between the tooth and the flywheel is sufficient or your gear will stick to the flywheel and the starter will fry.
 
To my limited knowledge, there is no difference in the gear material. I have heard of people breaking the nose of starters, is that what your asking?

From http://corvettec3.ca/tko.htm :

"NOTE: The starter for an automatic has a different nose cone than that of a standard. You will need to acquire the correct starter for a standard (cast iron cone versus aluminum for automatic)."

Also talked into length here http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-...er-for-keisler-auto-to-manual-conversion.html

Binnie77 says : " The manual starter has a smaller nose (usually steel) than the automatic starters. You can buy the steel nose and swap it out with the aluminum nose on the starter you took off but I discovered the nose costs almost as much as a rebuilt starter. I just went to NAPA and bought the starter for a standard and it works fine."

A couple more reasons not believe everything you read on other Corvette forums. :crap:
 
To my limited knowledge, there is no difference in the gear material. I have heard of people breaking the nose of starters, is that what your asking?

From http://corvettec3.ca/tko.htm :

"NOTE: The starter for an automatic has a different nose cone than that of a standard. You will need to acquire the correct starter for a standard (cast iron cone versus aluminum for automatic)."

Also talked into length here http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-...er-for-keisler-auto-to-manual-conversion.html

Binnie77 says : " The manual starter has a smaller nose (usually steel) than the automatic starters. You can buy the steel nose and swap it out with the aluminum nose on the starter you took off but I discovered the nose costs almost as much as a rebuilt starter. I just went to NAPA and bought the starter for a standard and it works fine."

A couple more reasons not believe everything you read on other Corvette forums. :crap:

Well, thanks to all of you guys for busting yet another Corvette myth, it make one less thing for me to worry about.:drink:
 
Curiosity get better of me, so I ask......


168 teeth, vs 153? teeth on the flex/fly.......why?? they all behind the same SBC block, right??? ok so why did they bother with the change for about 1/2" diameter if that???

second off, I can't see any reason to change starters just for between stick and auto....

what/when/why was the straight bolt pattern to staggered bolt pattern done??.....

:gurney:
 
If you have a sbc with 153 flywheel I can help you. I have a gear reduction starter from a 89 vette I will sell for 40 plus shipping.

corvettestarter.jpg
 
To my limited knowledge, there is no difference in the gear material. I have heard of people breaking the nose of starters, is that what your asking?

From http://corvettec3.ca/tko.htm :

"NOTE: The starter for an automatic has a different nose cone than that of a standard. You will need to acquire the correct starter for a standard (cast iron cone versus aluminum for automatic)."

Also talked into length here http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-...er-for-keisler-auto-to-manual-conversion.html

Binnie77 says : " The manual starter has a smaller nose (usually steel) than the automatic starters. You can buy the steel nose and swap it out with the aluminum nose on the starter you took off but I discovered the nose costs almost as much as a rebuilt starter. I just went to NAPA and bought the starter for a standard and it works fine."

A couple more reasons not believe everything you read on other Corvette forums. :crap:

Well, thanks to all of you guys for busting yet another Corvette myth, it make one less thing for me to worry about.:drink:

that's funny - that "expert" best not tell the starter on my C3... it's started the car both as an automatic AND a manual.... I figure if he tells the starter it's not supposed to work - it won't. Then I'll have to go hunting :hunter:for that guy
 
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