Any one installed the VBandP Rack-Attack system

496BBC

496BBC

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May 13, 2008
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Deep in the marsh, South Louisiana
If so how did it go? I am getting ready to decide if I want to build my own or buy a kit and install it. VBandP has a fair sale right now so if this system is a good fit for my vette I may just go this route.

Neal
 
The ONE demo model I saw of that on display last year, looked to be just about exact knock off of the Steeroids system....and I did not care for it either....

pardon ME< but the fabrication is fairly simple, and could be even simpler YET with that offset steering goody I seen here and elsewhere....it'a a hotrod steering assy that gives like 6" offset to the steering column output....spends though, at 600 bux.....

I managed to get my rack installed for 200 bux, winter 01-02....

:smash::eek:
 
From what I've seen the major advantage of the rack attack over the steeroids is the use of regular tie rod ends. The brackets look exactly the same, not sure if it's thicker gauge.
 
Thanks for the feedback, I can fix the brackets if needed. I guess the advantage with going with the kit would be not having to chase the parts down, it would all come in the kit. Of course the cost for that convenience is a good chunk of change. But it may not matter I sent them an email two days ago with some questions and have not gotten an answer yet.

Neal
 
The Flaming River cradle kit looks a lot better than the Steeroids junk....just my 2cents if you want the convenience of a complete kit and something that does not flex....
Chasing parts ??? There's not too much to it.... you don't have to get the parts from a junkyard: reman rack from RockAuto, steering shaft and U-joints from Summit/Jegs, build your own cradle.... you safe $500 and it won't flex.

There's a thread in the "projects" section and a downloadable PDF with detailed photos and part numbers in the download section :1st:
 
Best would be a cross breed between the Flaming River cradle and a power rack. I don't see why it can't be done, the rack location is pretty similar, the FR one is even a little further forward. All it needs is a hole in the motor mount, big deal.

With that whole steeroids junk, I fabbed up additional brackets and have a sort of cradle now. It uses a fabbed up bolt on bracket where the steering ram outer mount goes, it replaced the thin steeroids one. Then I welded a big bracket on the frame where the other flimsy steeroids bracket bolts to, and last I have a bar connecting the 2 sides so the welded passenger side supports the bolt on drivers side.

This is the welded bracket, I don't have a pic of the support bar as I added that later because the rack would still shift over under hard cornering.

24896006c13c6f.jpg

24896006d8ddfb.jpg

24896006edbfbd.jpg

All in all, with the cheap low budget 10$ a piece Chinese heim ends (from speedwaymotors most likely), the speedwaymotors tie rod sleeves, the speedwaymotors lock nuts, the speedwaymotors adjustable tie rod end, some bolts with washers and nuts, a couple of flimsy brackets, a reman. steering rack, a section of DD shaft, a 3/4-36?? to 3/4DD and a 3/4DD to 1"-48 flaming river steering joints and finally some el cheapo non swivel pressure hoses..... ugh! Would have been just as easy to fab this from the get go and keep a 1000$ in your pocket
 
Marck, It's all ver nice what you showed above....but a few points....I can plainly see that like on MY install, the lower rack clamp bolt is in fact riding lower than the control arm....almost has to, regardless of how you mount the rack assuming it's level to the frame, and clears the oil pan.....so I just used a 1" piece of angle and got a piece stuck on it...using the OEM two bolt holes in the frame, bending the bracket till the lower tab was straight, and bolted into the bottom of the bracket, knocking some 1.5 inches off that lo spot....

Second off, the rack is not needing anything near that strong to mount on the pass side as shown....just hold it fore/aft/vertically....ALL the lateral support comes from the driver's side....I fail to see why all that welding on the pass side....

I would love to see how you did the driver's side mount...as that is what I consider the prime bug with ALL the rack installs I have seen....

:nuts::3rd:
 
The pass side bracket is not just to mount the passenger side rubber mount (which has next to no side to side clamping, it just slides on), it's the anchor point for the bar (not shows) that bolts the drivers side bolt on bracket to the passenger side, forming a cradle.

This is the drivers side mount, same idea as stock steeroids, just a good bit thicker and 1 additional gusset.

24896006ab27d0.jpg

The bracket is as beefy as it gets, but the frame will flex there as it's just bolted by 4 little studs. I even upgraded those to a thicker metric size (don't remember which size) but it still flexes. The bar connecting left and right together using that big welded on passenger side bracket as the anchor point to me was the quickest and easiest way to make this as solid an install as I could get it.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
The bracket is as beefy as it gets, but the frame will flex there as it's just bolted by 4 little studs. I even upgraded those to a thicker metric size (don't remember which size) but it still flexes. The bar connecting left and right together using that big welded on passenger side bracket as the anchor point to me was the quickest and easiest way to make this as solid an install as I could get it.
Click to expand...

What 'bar'...the rack itself?? the upper A arm cross support??

and what is holding your driver's bracket, the 4 bottom bolts or something up the inside of the frame in the old steering box mounts???

Over the last several years, I swear, I go get my neighbor to twist the wheel with engine ON or off, in the garage, and there is NO lateral flex maybe a 1/16 each side due to rubber doughnut...the frame is still....

yet everyone else has problems, and I have maybe 20% of the steel in my mounts, if that....I don't understand...serious...

:hissyfit:
 
No, see the bracket I welded to the frame and the bolt on one, thicker version of stock steeroid that bolts to the drivers side of the frmae? I have abar that connects these 2, so the pass side supports the drivers side and keeps it from moving. The bar is not in the pics as i didn;t take a pic after I added that. That's what makes up the "cradle" in that install.

The drivers side bracket is held by those 4 studs (they are 2 plates w/ 2 studs, like stock that drop down through the big hole in the frame) and the standard steeroids bracket that bolts to this bracket and inside the frame (original steering box mounts)
 
Twin_Turbo said:
No, see the bracket I welded to the frame and the bolt on one, thicker version of stock steeroid that bolts to the drivers side of the frmae? I have abar that connects these 2, so the pass side supports the drivers side and keeps it from moving. The bar is not in the pics as i didn;t take a pic after I added that. That's what makes up the "cradle" in that install.

The drivers side bracket is held by those 4 studs (they are 2 plates w/ 2 studs, like stock that drop down through the big hole in the frame) and the standard steeroids bracket that bolts to this bracket and inside the frame (original steering box mounts)
Click to expand...

AHH, NOW the centrifuge has cleared the mud from the water!!.....ok, so your bar obviously parallels the rack...about 1/2" sq tube, something like that....

I presume you also have a cross support on the upper A arms.....

I dunno, all I can go by in my case, is what I can see.....would be interesting to mount a camera under there and do some quick driving just to watch the dynamics of the thing taking a entrance ramp turn at speeds....but the stupid thing just hangs in there for 7 years now...:eek:, hope I not inviting the devil with that statement....

:eek::cussing::rain:
 
MYBAD79 said:
The Flaming River cradle kit looks a lot better than the Steeroids junk....just my 2cents if you want the convenience of a complete kit and something that does not flex....
Chasing parts ??? There's not too much to it.... you don't have to get the parts from a junkyard: reman rack from RockAuto, steering shaft and U-joints from Summit/Jegs, build your own cradle.... you safe $500 and it won't flex.

There's a thread in the "projects" section and a downloadable PDF with detailed photos and part numbers in the download section :1st:
Click to expand...

Thanks MYBAD79, the PDF is a big help. Still on the fence on rather I will try a kit or put my own together. Still no response from VBandP.

Neal
 
Well after two attempts at some questions for VBandP and getting no answers I have decided to do a DIY install. I have all the parts ordered and as soon as they get here I will start the install. Looks like the total for the parts will be around $392, plus some bolts and such.

Will post some pics once I get started.


Any idea on the size of the AN fittings in the rack that I'll need to make up some hoses.

I have some concerns were the steering shaft passes by the headers were the steering box was. I went with a single u-joint at the top, may be tight, I didn't realize that vette427sbc (I know SBC) had a small block, may have to get a double u-joint for the top. Anybody have some input on this, surely someone out there with a BB and hookers has installed rack and pinion.


The write up by vette427sbc along with MYBAD79 putting it on the download page is a huge help.


Thanks to both of yall


Neal
 
Just taking a stab at this, not sure if this is correct or not so bare with me...
if the BB, and SB headers both fit with the stock steering box, wouldnt the headers (regardless of engine) have to be somewhat similar in primary tube placement?

Even if you still had clearance problems, you could go with the double joint to clear the headers, but still shorten the steering shaft to reduce the drastic angle on the double joint.
Never seen a BB car in person, so Im not sure how the headers are routed, making this all just a guess.
 
The BB and SB headers don't all fit with the stock steering box, but indeed you're right, if set up properly you should be able to get more clearance than with a box. However, don't forget that the bulk of the steering box hangs over the frame, not inward!
 
I still got the opinion, that I would cut the freeking header to avoid 3 universals on the input...that's just ME....you won't have any problem with a stock 350 rams horn or '87 vette pipe setup...which is what I wish I had stuck with years ago, instead of selling them....

:drink:
 
I had to work on the headers to make them clear the steering box, the primary tube hit the pit-man arm. The primary tubes are within a 1/2" of the box.

If I can't get the shaft to clear the headers I'll try the double joint.
 
Same here, I had to work on the primary tube to get 1/2" clearance to the steering box.
I bought the two Flaming River U-joints and their steering shaft for my R&P conversion.
 
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