C3/4/5 frankenstein frame

phantomjock said:

Looking good!
A little left-sideheavy, perhaps the driver is aboard?
Were the ARBs disconnected? Could be a differential there too.
View attachment 56475


I am always amazed when I check before buying a new "tool," the ones I find tucked away.
Even more amazed, when I buy one only to find that now I have a "Spare!"
I assume the unit does these calcs as one of the FNs.

Cheers - Jim

Click to expand...

Been there!

No driver, but I dont add much Swaybar connected, but everything is still in the "thrown together" stage... Left and right are certainly not level so thats why i assumed its so drastically off. I intentionally placed things as equally left/right as I could within reason... Drysump tank, battery and HVAC are on the passenger side, oil cooler, ABS, and power steering on the drivers side. Once its further together Ill get the ride height set proper and start playing with corner/cross weights. I just like to see that Im starting at considerably lower number than I had estimated given the full cage and reinforced chassis components. 3200lbs with an interior and driver would be a dream...

In the next week I "should" have some scale measures of mine. Machinist has a couple of bushings to fab this week.
I will probably do the toss together and the chassis is sans interior but I want to get a guestimate too. Plus be good to put it on the garage floor.
Plus I want to get real measurements to run - not all "adjusted" for jackstand heights.
Not bad at 3200, but wouldn't 2800 be sweet? Probably loose the HVAC though, and the carpet, and the stereo, and...
I'll be watching the Dry sump nstall closely. I may need to revisit my position - it might interfere with the headers.

that plumbing looks great, I meant to ask is that the shrewsbury river?

phantomjock said:

In the next week I "should" have some scale measures of mine. Machinist has a couple of bushings to fab this week.
I will probably do the toss together and the chassis is sans interior but I want to get a guestimate too. Plus be good to put it on the garage floor.
Plus I want to get real measurements to run - not all "adjusted" for jackstand heights.
Not bad at 3200, but wouldn't 2800 be sweet? Probably loose the HVAC though, and the carpet, and the stereo, and...
I'll be watching the Dry sump nstall closely. I may need to revisit my position - it might interfere with the headers.

Click to expand...

My drysump is complete... passenger side 3 stage pump. I machined off the fuel pump mounting boss so I could get the pump closer to the block. I think I have room for one more stage before it runs into the motor mount. Otherwise nothin' fancy about it. If you need any specific pics let me know!


And yes thats the Shrewsbury, Bob! Theres still a few skiff guys that will hang at the launch ramp to see whos out playing if they hear one... They have such a unique sound out on the water.

I was a member of the Red Bank Rotary club and if i remember correctly we use to have our meetings at a restaurant or boat club/sailing club place next to the bridge (maybe rte35) and you would see lots of fun stuff. if only they didn't BRAC Ft Monmouth.

Chris,

A couple of questions about your soft lines to the ABS unit. I just bought the Bosch M5 stand-alone ABS system and am getting ready to plumb it. Bosch does not recommend "soft" lines, but talking to the guys at Brown and Miller (BMRS) they insist on soft lines due to unit vibration. GSpeed, where I bought the unit, has done soft lines the full length of the car. I am thinking about short soft lines connecting to hard lines for the longer runs (rear brakes). Is that what you did. Did you use a flare and tube nut with AN fittings on your adapters. I have to get from a bubble flare at the Bosch unit to whatever... I was thinking of soft lines to bulkhead fittings -AN at one end then to an inverted flare on the other so I could retain standard GM fittings at the caliper end of things. Your thoughts? Who fabricated your soft lines? In addition to your photo, here is a photo of one of Stielow's cars. He is a GM engineer and uses GM components in his Gen 1 Camaros. I noticed he used hard lines, but there appears to be a lot of "slop" - the lines are not secured for some distance from the unit leaving some room for flex. As an aside, I have the Tilton 900-series pedal box and I had to switch from 78-series masters to 79-series that are built especially for ABS use, and they have a port to accept the pressure sensor that Bosch uses. The next photo is of my old masters. Finally, the last photo is of a GSpeed installation in a C7. They used soft lines from the master cylinders, but hard lines to the individual brakes.

I'd be concerned using stainless - even annealed, it's very brittle. Add to that the tight bends and it'd be a problem of how soon, not if they will crack. GM runs hard lines to the unit on both sides - however, some get a stainless an line between the master cylinder and the unit. Personally, I'd use the nickel alloy lines and not clamp them for some distance then use rubber lined clamps for the first tie to solid mount....