350 rebuild

K

Kahle76

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Joined
May 26, 2008
Messages
5
Location
Jackson, MO
I have a stock 76 L82 numbers matching that needs a motor rebuild. It has lifter noise and burns oil. It's a little embarasing blowing smoke down the road and I would also like a little more HP/torque, around 350. I have a donor motor to rebuild and will put the origional on a stand. I know a lot of you will suggest dropping in a crate motor, but I would like to do this rebuild and enjoy the process. I have been lurking on this and other forums for a year and changed my mind many too times. I want finalize my list.

My questions are:
Is there a website/program where you can type in the heads, intake, cam ect and get estimates on horsepower and torque?

Is there a website that has complete list of matching components.

Don't kill me on this one. I don't want loud mufflers, but don't want to restrict the performance too much. Is this possible? Suggestions?

Thanks!
 
Yes, Desktop Dyno 2000 can do that for you, Engine Analyzer by Performance Trends too... DD2K however is much easier to use and a lot of head and cam files are available in the DL section.
 
Dynomax Ultra Flow are free flowing and relatively quiet mufflers, Magaflow offers the same design (perforated tube) in stainless.

Engine: A 1pc rms roller cam block is not much more than having the old block cleaned, inspected and machined. Unless it's one of those 010 casting numbers 4bolt main blocks I'd just get a new block. The money you save by using GM roller lifters vs the expensive retro lifters might actually make it cheaper than using the old block.
With all that talk about flat tappet lifters failing I prefer piece of mind and chose roller lifters/cam.

The spare engine is a L82 ? If so it already has a forged crank, 4bolt mains. Does the block need machining or just new rings/bearings?

Good heads/cam/intake alone will increase HP quiet a bit without touching the bottom end.

It all depends on the condition of the engine....
 
MYBAD79 said:
Dynomax Ultra Flow are free flowing and relatively quiet mufflers, Magaflow offers the same design (perforated tube) in stainless.

Engine: A 1pc rms roller cam block is not much more than having the old block cleaned, inspected and machined. Unless it's one of those 010 casting numbers 4bolt main blocks I'd just get a new block. The money you save by using GM roller lifters vs the expensive retro lifters might actually make it cheaper than using the old block.
With all that talk about flat tappet lifters failing I prefer piece of mind and chose roller lifters/cam.

The spare engine is a L82 ? If so it already has a forged crank, 4bolt mains. Does the block need machining or just new rings/bearings?

Good heads/cam/intake alone will increase HP quiet a bit without touching the bottom end.

It all depends on the condition of the engine....
Click to expand...

I totally agree, I would shop for a late 80's truck block complete, and a set of L98 heads, it's what I have, roller engine all the way...same as a cammed up ZZ4.....complete short blocks should be cheep and plentiful now, and heads are also....IMO, get the short/short block assembled by the machine shop that does the block/crank/balancing that way all you need do is slip the cam home, bolt on the heads, set the hydraulic rollers in, and rest of the valve train....this way you get the one piece rear main seal also....

you can have a easy 350 hp at the crank...400 if you cam it up a tad.....

IMO again...I would go DPFI....aftermarket is a lot of cash, but the GM stuff is getting cheep, i'ts a LOT of work with a TIG welder but a LT1 induction is setting on my L98 engine now...HUGE improvement over the large runner TPI that WAS on it....

:hi:
 
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