Which side to run fuel line?

BlackBetty

BlackBetty

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Dec 28, 2008
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Alabama
My 76 fuel line was down the passenger side frame rail. Im putting in new ss 3/8 line for my ls swap. The inlet on the fuel rail of the ls6 manifold is on the driverside. Im not running a return line because I will be running the corvette regulator with built in return. I was thinking of just running the new line down the driverside with the brake lines. Any input? Anyone else do that?
 
I need to replace mine this spring too. I don't think i'm going to worry about routing along the stock locations either. From reading previous stuff at CF the consensus is that its just impossible to replace the line as routed from the factory with the body on the frame.

So we need to figure out a route that can be easily laid down in a few hours that won't get damaged.

It seems pretty straightforward until you get to the kickup point.
 
You could leave it on the passenger side, & bring it up around the firewall to the passenenger side. Bring it up around the AC blower area to keep the heat off of it from the exhaust. One other thing you might need to do is rewire the fuel pump to a run only condition, maybe from the oil pressure switch. Otherwise it will always run with the Corvette filter/regulator never reaching cutoff pressure. What type of fuel pump are you going to use?
 
The body is off the frame, so routing shouldnt be a problem. I am running a walbro inline. My speartech harness has the fuel pump relay already brought out. Do you run that type regulator?
 
You have the body off and out of the way, you can pick and choose where you want to run everything and you're going with an engine that has the fuel inlet on the left side.

What was the question?
 
I guess there is no question. I just wanted to make sure something wouldnt interfere with something else by some weird chance orya know?
 
BlackBetty said:
The body is off the frame, so routing shouldnt be a problem. I am running a walbro inline. My speartech harness has the fuel pump relay already brought out. Do you run that type regulator?
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We put one of those regulators on a friends LS1 conversion. The pump started running constantly when the switch was turned on. He used a Holley external pump. The only problem with that setup is, if you were to damage the fuel line anywhere, it would pump the tank dry quite fast. If wired to run only, the pump want run the battery down, or cause a safety hazard.
 
BlackBetty said:
I guess there is no question. I just wanted to make sure something wouldnt interfere with something else by some weird chance orya know?
Click to expand...

One nice thing about modding these old Vettes. You can do just about anything you want to, any WAY you want to. Just make sure the line won't get pinched/cut/damaged anyplace. That's the biggie.

I agree with Dirtbuster too- don't just wire your fuel pump to run when the key is on. run thru an oil pressure switch. Put a bypass (momentary contact) button in the system if you need to, but the last thing you want is to have a fuel pump running when the engine is not.
:beer:
 
Ran mine down the drive side and right up to the inlet. One suggestion is to make sure you put a shutoff valve at the tank side.

Your SpearTech Fuel relay is controlled by the PCM and will only function when running except for the 5 second injector load when you click the key. It's a beautiful thing.

Good luck with the project.

c3gs041007e.jpg
 
If I can give a word of advise, use hard line on the frame! It's maintainance free. That flex line doesnt have eternal life, it's just rubber hose with a braid to protect it from the outside.
 
True that. Im going with stainless steel all around, fuel/brakes etc. Only using high pressure hose in a few spots.
 
On my LS conversion, I flipped the fuel rail around with the inlet on the passenger side now. I'm flaring the original hard line to hook into a flex hode on each end.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
If I can give a word of advise, use hard line on the frame! It's maintainance free. That flex line doesnt have eternal life, it's just rubber hose with a braid to protect it from the outside.
Click to expand...

Advice taken but would be interested in knowing why steel braided is not maintenance free and what the life expectancy is. I'll probably be long dead and gone before this stuff would fail. But curious what your comment is based on and if there is any info out there I can read up on so I'm convinced not to use it on the next project.

It was recommended that for a heads/cam/blower setup and 60lb injectors to go with at least a -10 feed line which is about 5/8" ID. My foot isn't always into it so probably a 5/16" hard feed line would work but in this case I Felt more was better. But I'd still be interested in some data.

I've removed rubber hose from cars that was over 40 years and still functioning (and it wasn't SS braided wrapped) and I've seen hard lines either rust through or stainless leak (especially brakes).

Thanks,

Joe..
 
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