To lube wheel studs or not, that is the question

big2bird said:
mrvette said:
Yeh, but they do ALL of them at ONCE.....anyone know if they are stock lug nutz or something super duty and increased count???
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Gene, They are attached to the rims with plastic tabs. They zip off the old ones, and they are on the wheel already when they zip em on.
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The teams used to glue them on, I have a couple at home my wife picked up one visit to the Penski shops look like a oversized nut for 1/2" stud
 
Anti-sieze on a lug bolt is a very bad idea !!!

Here's why: Bolts or studs provide clamping force by being purposely stretched. Most torque specs bring a bolt well within its elastic limit. Then when loosened they will return to their original length and can be safely reused (Some bolts, including many head bolts, are purposely stretched past their elastic limit, and can not be reused). The torque wrench is the most convenient-but not the most accurate-method of properly stretching
automotive bolts. Engineers spend hours correlating the proper bolt stretch to the required turning effort.

About 90% of a torque specification is used to overcome friction; only 10% of the specified twisting effort provides clamping force. It is no surprise then that most lubricant tables recommend a 40-45% reduction of applied torque when using
anti-sieze on a bolt. So, a lugbolt coated with anti-sieze should be tightened to a maximum of 49 ft-lbs. Tightening this lugnut to 85 ft-lbs. means it is now over-torqued by 73%! Considering that most torque specs stretch a bolt to within 70% of its elastic limit, over-torquing by 73% will easily send the bolt or stud well beyond its elastic limit-and could be dangerously close to its failure point.

For this reason I would suggest to all forum members to never use anti-seize on your lug hardware.
 
Ok, Luke, thanks for the informed reply. But what if you did take into account that effect? Is there any reason you couldn't? We have some pretty bright people on this forum, I'm sure a few of them could come up with a "wet" torque spec. So, just a hypothetical, say we determine that a wheel that is supposed to be torqued to 100ft/lbs dry calculates to 65ft/lbs lubed (hypothetically). Then is there a legitimate reason not to?
I mean hell, I just assembled two engines in the last week and lubed the rod and main bolts. Are you telling me wheel studs see RADICALLY different loads?
 
Just jumping in so I can continue to read about this subject. I have always been very meticulous about torque specs (although never used grease or anti-seize on wheel studs).....
 
doingMach1 said:
Just jumping in so I can continue to read about this subject. I have always been very meticulous about torque specs (although never used grease or anti-seize on wheel studs).....
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I'm like that too. I bought a Proto torque wrench that was on sale for $160 so I had the best tools I could afford. That, and I know how to use it. Use to drive me crazy to go to a tire store and see the idiot bounce of the torque wrench and tell me it's all good. :banghead:
 
clutchdust said:
doingMach1 said:
Just jumping in so I can continue to read about this subject. I have always been very meticulous about torque specs (although never used grease or anti-seize on wheel studs).....
Click to expand...

I'm like that too. I bought a Proto torque wrench that was on sale for $160 so I had the best tools I could afford. That, and I know how to use it. Use to drive me crazy to go to a tire store and see the idiot bounce of the torque wrench and tell me it's all good. :banghead:
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Yeah!! That drives me crazy! I just had my car in the shop and they gave it back with my black lugnuts all scraped up! I use the torque wrench and a spark plug ratchet end....I even wrapped it with electrical tape so the outside wouldn't scuff the wheel!

I know, I know.....go ahead and make fun!
 
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