Sensitive Steering

Dirtbuster1

Dirtbuster1

Well-known member
Joined
May 13, 2008
Messages
649
Location
Georgia
What would cause my 82 to have very sensitive steering at speeds of 55 & higher. At slower speeds everything feels ok. The steering box doesn't seem to have any slop in it that I can tell. This all started after the alignment was done. While doing the alignment the guy helping me, recommended alot of caster in it. I think it was set at 7 degrees. Everything else was set a factory settings. The alignment was done on a Hunter alignment rack. The only other thing I could think of is that possibly the torque on the trailing arms might not be correct.

Any thoughts?
 
The lower profile larger wheel diameter tires...17+ makes the car much more sensitive to 'rutting' in the roads....I noticed that right from the git go...but down here in Florida it was a PIA, and every twitch of the wheel is magnified 16-1 on account of the box, anything even remotely loose there or elsewhere will show up like a muvva....the tall old narrow tires for 8" rims, 60 series are not nearly so sensitive, and certainly there even yet improvements over old bias ply junk these chassis were designed for in the late 50's....

you may try less caster, but I thought that was supposed to improve that tracking, not mess it up.....can't remember from the comments which a way it works anymore....

I just remember the very distinct performance handling and hi speed stability improvment in tracking when doing the rack in 01-02 winter....

I had my neighbor stand there just last week, turning the wheel in the garage with no assist....the rack is still in there stable...ain't no slop in that thing what so ever....

I also think there is inherent slop in that control valve, due to it's placement, too much subject to road feedback....the later Jeep boxes, and racks are much closer to 12-1 ratio, so less turns on the wheel, and then less sensitive on wheels feedback to the steering wheel....this is IMO....

got nothing to go on but my personal observations.....I did the rack for quicker steering not even thinking of the wander/rutting issue....but it cured that too....

:beer:
 
Have you changed the power steering pump? I recall reading something about the original Vette pump has a lower pressure setting (regulator) than a "normal" GM pump.

Send an email to Jim Shea- he will know for sure.

Ol' Red gets a different feel above 55 too. Not twitchy or anything it just seems the steering shifts into high gear and gets a little quicker. It's still got the original pump and the alignment is right off VB&P's specs after I replaced all the bushings. It's been that way since '71, so I'm thinking it's normal for Red.
 
Do you have an alignment printout? You have to IN right? With the ackerman adding toe out during cornering & toe out from bump steer it will quickly give a very darty steering, especially on uneven roads.
 
I still have the same power steering pump that I had before the restro. I didn't print out the alignment settings since I was there helping make adjustments. I do believe the toe was in, but I don't remember the setting. I think the camber was negitive 0.7 degrees. We just adjusted everything per the hunter spec, not within limits. The only thing different from the GM spec was caster.
 
TimAT said:
Have you changed the power steering pump? I recall reading something about the original Vette pump has a lower pressure setting (regulator) than a "normal" GM pump.
Yep. 900PSI for ram assist, and 1600 for assist in the box.
Send an email to Jim Shea- he will know for sure.

Ol' Red gets a different feel above 55 too. Not twitchy or anything it just seems the steering shifts into high gear and gets a little quicker. It's still got the original pump and the alignment is right off VB&P's specs after I replaced all the bushings. It's been that way since '71, so I'm thinking it's normal for Red.
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You just don't get to drive fast very often.:stirpot:
 
Curby said:
It sounds like the toe is off. If it is neutral or out, the car will be extremely darty.
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I would try that first. I started with nuetral toe, and hated it. Added 1/8" toe, and it came in for me. I would also check for slop anywhere. A loose BJ will do that for sure.:wink:
 
big2bird said:
Curby said:
It sounds like the toe is off. If it is neutral or out, the car will be extremely darty.
Click to expand...

I would try that first. I started with nuetral toe, and hated it. Added 1/8" toe, and it came in for me. I would also check for slop anywhere. A loose BJ will do that for sure.:wink:
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The alignment shop should have checked for any worn parts. I doubt it's that. The wheels are pushed apart more as you go faster, which would explain it. He has zero toe at slow speeds and toe out at higher speeds.

Alignment shops do zero toe thinking they are saving tires.
 
All of the ball joints & bushings were replaced. With all of the Chinese crap out these days who knows whats good or bad. Maybe I need to put it back on the alignment rack just to check everything one more time. Just looking for a direction to go. I do think the toe was set at 1/8" now that I think about it.
 
Dirtbuster1 said:
All of the ball joints & bushings were replaced. With all of the Chinese crap out these days who knows whats good or bad. Maybe I need to put it back on the alignment rack just to check everything one more time. Just looking for a direction to go. I do think the toe was set at 1/8" now that I think about it.
Click to expand...

Shit, I was afraid you'd say that, maybe need check everything over again, and get under there when they check the ball joints....

I suggest you have your own intelligent look see.......:crap:
 
I'm just making a list of things to do when I can start doing things again. When I can start driving again. I still have probably 3 more weeks without driving. The wife won't let me out of her sight. She knows how hard headed I am. Getting the steering/handling back seems to be my 1st priority. I still wonder if anything could be wrong back with the trailing arms, such as to much play?
 
They changed the caster setting ? Less caster will cause high speed instability but impprove low(er) speed cornering ... have the same issue on mine... I know they adjusted the caster to whatever the minimum was (that's what they said).... anyways, I have the same symptom, it's getting a lil 'twitchy' above 70mph....

Found some good sketches on the net:

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Hey, Karsten, thanks for them pix there, they all saved so as I can forget where I saved them on the desk top....:bonkers::1st::flash:
 
Karsten,

I agree with Gene. Great Pics. At least I'm not alone with my sensitive steering. I'll let you know what I find in around 3 weeks. Maybe it's just us getting out of the C3 into the C6 that's screwing us up.
 
More castor should give more stability at higher speeds...no? Isn't 7 degrees a bit much? I have mine set at 3 degrees.
 
I thought that 7 degrees was to much, but that is what he recommended. All I know is I don't like the way it handles.
 
More caster = higher number... unless they screwed up positive and negative...

at 7 degrees caster your tires should almost hit the fender when you turn (it will hit at the rear, towards the door)...
 
I don't believe you have 7 degrees of caster, usually with shimming the arms to the max you can not get more than about 5* or so. Any mroe reuires offset arms, shafts or other tricks. Don't you people get a print-out from the aligment bench?
 
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