Need help with hood (scoop) on a '79

Imo Apita

Imo Apita

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Feb 28, 2009
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Will be starting with the assembly of my 383 soon (ish).
Intend to use a taller intake plus a taller (maybe 3-4') filter.

Ideally would like the Twin Turbo hood but can't afford it. Or choose not to however you look at it. It's either a new hood or a 700R4 and I've chosen the transmission.
So I've been looking at hood scoops. I'm not a total idiot with fiberglass so I think I can get this done. Put a scoop on the original '79 hood and cut out a hole for the portion of the air filter which will stick above the original hood into the scoop. Fabricate some poor mans cold air intake.

Question is which scoop? I like too many; I like the:
  • L-88
  • Twin turbo
  • Stinger hood scoop

Having a hard time making a choice.
Anybody any advise or pics for inspiration?
 
Imo Apita said:
Will be starting with the assembly of my 383 soon (ish).
Intend to use a taller intake plus a taller (maybe 3-4') filter.

Ideally would like the Twin Turbo hood but can't afford it. Or choose not to however you look at it. It's either a new hood or a 700R4 and I've chosen the transmission.
So I've been looking at hood scoops. I'm not a total idiot with fiberglass so I think I can get this done. Put a scoop on the original '79 hood and cut out a hole for the portion of the air filter which will stick above the original hood into the scoop. Fabricate some poor mans cold air intake.

Question is which scoop? I like too many; I like the:
  • L-88
  • Twin turbo
  • Stinger hood scoop

Having a hard time making a choice.
Anybody any advise or pics for inspiration?
Click to expand...

that is one tall air filter!
 
SMC as in :

A new composite material is gaining widespread use in the automotive, industrial, and personal watercraft markets that presents unique repair problems. It is called SMC, or Sheet Molded Compound. Recognizing SMC from other types of FRP composites is critical so the proper repair can be performed. Parts made with SMC are produced in compression molds, so they are smooth on both the inside and outside. That is the first clue to look for when identifying them. Next, SMC parts do not have an outer gel coat, but they are usually painted or color molded. When the paint is sanded off, the underlying surface has a marble appearance. Finally, when damaged SMC is sanded, short coarse fibers are exposed and a dryer powdery dust is produced compared to conventional materials. These hints will make SMC identification quite straightforward. SMC is a polyester-based material, but it cannot be repaired with polyester resin. This is due to the mold release agent that is present throughout the entire SMC part. Unlike conventionally molded parts where release agents are applied to the mold surface, SMC is compounded with them in the resin mix for quicker processing. This means that as the damage is sanded to prepare a good bonding surface, fresh mold release agent is exposed. Polyester resin products are not strong enough to adhere to this surface. SMC SHOULD ONLY BE REPAIRED USING EPOXY-BASED RESINS, FILLERS AND ADHESIVES.
Click to expand...

Found this website:
http://www.fibreglast.com/product/LC_007

Haven't had time to read everything yet but seems to be good info.
I know somebody that had a '77 twin turbo hood for sale, anybody know if this fits a '79 without too much fuss?

I like the stinger too but is it open all the way through? I don't want any carb issues because of wind buffeting (turbulence) at speed since the top of the aircleaner will stick up into it.

that is one tall air filter!
Click to expand...
Yeah this one in the 4 foot version!

kn59-1195a.jpg

I meant inches :eek:h:
 
I think you mentioned you're in Florida: check these guys out:

UScomposite.com - they're in Miami and they have SMC resin, adhesives, mat, and so on.... I've bought structural foam and glue from them, they seem to know their stuff.... and they have reasonable prices...
 
I like this one :

Front.jpg

It's the Mad Max car as it toured Australia after the movie was finished.
The removed the fake blower and modified it to this.
Pretty bad-ass if you ask me.
It looks like the mini L-88 on top of something else, but what?
 
So I don't need a scoop anymore.
After two years of searching/waiting this is what I scored last weekend:

ee644a63.jpg
Placed over the stock hood just to get an idea of what it would look like.
Here its cleaned up a little safely in the shed:
d7f00507.jpg

Supposedly an Ecklers. No markings or date stamps as far as I could see. It's pretty thick and sturdy.
Anybody ever make these NACA ducts functional?
As in one of them feeds fresh air and the other maybe cools an air gap manifold?
I was in the process of buying the hood that Clutch Dust had for sale.
Been pestering him to send me pictures of all sorts of measurements.
Sorry Clutch owe you a :drink:
 
Finally got my rear end in gear and swapped the hood.
Thought it would be a drama because for some reason the bolt holes in the Ecklers hood are a fraction closer than in the original so the shims didn't fit.
Fixed that with a stack of washers.
I'm really stoked with the result....:clap:
After cleaning of all the dust the color is close enough for now but pretty seriously oxidized and scratched. But hey, it's not a show car.
A unexpected side effect, the induction-suction ( is that a word) is much more noticeable. Standing outside the car and giving the throttle a blip you can hear the carb suck air. Interestingly enough, if you hold your hand over the top vents or behind the opening near the windshield you can feel the airflow if you blip the throttle. You can barely hear it in the car (too loud) but it is really audible from the outside.
Makes it sound a lot more bad-ass then it really is.
Need to finish that 383 now so performance matches the look.

d5e4b77c.jpg

11184fdc.jpg

11b5f186.jpg

You can just see the top of the air cleaner near the RH NACA duct
It's got a 3" filter and still at least 2-3 inches clearance.

c6e4dc05.jpg
 
The hood looks pretty good, just a little more tweaking and it'll fit even better... looks like the driver side fender gap is a little tight, 40grit sandpaper can fix that :D
 
It took me from 1800-2000 got it done just before dark while being eaten alive by fist-size mosquitos:hunter:
So I was happy to leave it as-is for now.:clap:
It kind of settled a litle bit since the gaps are not exactly the same as when I put it on. We pulled and pushed while tightening the bolts to get the gaps straight so it may have worked a little.
Drivers side gap near the windshield is wider then on the pass side and yet the front gap is narrower.
Suspecting that my quarter panels are not dead exactly straight either.
Been getting a thumbs-up from harley-riders and some boney-ass chick flipped me off. But then again I did cut her off kinda accidentally 'cause she was in the way.
 
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