Need Engine Guru's Help

I dunn'no man, maybe on that cylinder you have a worn or sticky ring letting some oil bye. As far as the AIC FI stuff,i have no idea,thats why i stick with carbs.
Is changing out the cross fire system to a more modern FI system an option?
 
mrvette said:
Hey, you look at the old gaskets?? were the bottom portions wet and dark in color ALL the way through the 1/4 inch width of the gasket surface?? was the bottom of ANY head ports dark/greasy with oil???

if so, there your problem...

I swear if MY mild smoking is taking that intake oil down there, I going to grind about 1/2 INCH off those flanges on top and use about 6 tubes of permatex poly steel shit, and DARE that mofo to leak.....

still think you need do the discussed pipe and mods to the 'slave' tbody and just do with ONE IAC motor and get it over with...PIA I Know....but I dunno what else to say....

:fishing:
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Gene & Kevin thanks for the input!!

The #7 Cylinder head intake port was a dark stain that I did not see anywhere else. The blue Felpro gaskets make it hard to tell anything. I am also concerned why the oil seemed to be so dark for 700 miles. I copper coated the new Felpro gaskets pretty heavy. I hope that will help if it was the problem. If not, I will probably drive the car over to the engine shop on Friday for them to look at. I think my next move will be to try and change the valve seals before doing anything drastic such as pulling the engine. I don't think that a head removal will tell the whole story, & there not much time difference involved.

Can I hurt anything else driving the car right now. Removing one of the IAC motors will probably be coming real soon. I will talk to Steve tommorow. I still think I possibly have another bad ECM due to the car not idling up when cold.
 
kwplot34 said:
I dunn'no man, maybe on that cylinder you have a worn or sticky ring letting some oil bye. As far as the AIC FI stuff,i have no idea,thats why i stick with carbs.
Is changing out the cross fire system to a more modern FI system an option?
Click to expand...

If a ring was bad, you could see it on the spark plug. This could also cause a miss/rough idle. Compression looks ok per Gene. Possible leak at the intake gasket solved(should clear up rather quickly if this was the problem). Oil burning would also show at the dipstick...how much were you down when you changed the oil?

Just throwing out thoughts.
 
The oil level looked ok. The smoke kind of came on since I installed the heades. Around 100 miles. I 1st thought that it was the ECM again. I changed to my spare new Cardone refurb, hoping that would fix the problem. It would not be the 1st bad one I have gotten from them. The new plug was oil wet after just cranking the engine before changing the intake gasket. I will put around 20 miles on it to do another plug check and see what happens.

Thanks,

The saga continues. Stay tuned for updates!
 
SmokinBBC said:
kwplot34 said:
I dunn'no man, maybe on that cylinder you have a worn or sticky ring letting some oil bye. As far as the AIC FI stuff,i have no idea,thats why i stick with carbs.
Is changing out the cross fire system to a more modern FI system an option?
Click to expand...

If a ring was bad, you could see it on the spark plug. This could also cause a miss/rough idle. Compression looks ok per Gene. Possible leak at the intake gasket solved(should clear up rather quickly if this was the problem). Oil burning would also show at the dipstick...how much were you down when you changed the oil?

Just throwing out thoughts.
Click to expand...

I dunn'no just thinking out loud,look's like he has covered all of his bases.
where is our engine builder CNCblocks,maybe he has a thought or 2.
 
I put around 20 miles on the car today. I still have some smoke, but it seems to be from the TB with the AIC motor problem. Did I say problem with the AIC! :cussing::smash: Well today I think that problem got worse. The engine was loading up some at idle due to the front AIC motor. I was taking off at the red light & heard a spit from the TB. Fire ran thru my head. I pulled into my neighborhood & the engine stalled. I had forgotton to put the Air Breather back on, and smoke was coming out from under the hood. The wiring harness to the TB's was on fire. I put it out rather quickly with minimal damage. I am now faced with repairing the harness. I called everywhere today & no one repairs them, nor sells them. This is not the engine harness, it is the TB Harness. I talked with Electric Limited and they don't even have the plug connectors.:cry: This thing is one melted mess.

Does anyone out there have a old TB harness they don't need. I need one desperately!
 
Thanks for the search. I think that they are forum members. I will try an get in touch with them tommorow. It appears that I only thrashed the front TB injector wires. While I have it out I might as well repair it all.

Good news is I pulled the #5 & 7 plugs. There doesn't seem to be any signs of wet oil. I just saw some minor staining on one part of the #7 plug. Maybe somethings going my way.
 
Dirtbuster1 said:
Thanks for the search. I think that they are forum members. I will try an get in touch with them tommorow. It appears that I only thrashed the front TB injector wires. While I have it out I might as well repair it all.

Good news is I pulled the #5 & 7 plugs. There doesn't seem to be any signs of wet oil. I just saw some minor staining on one part of the #7 plug. Maybe somethings going my way.
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It ain't over till it's over. Good luck. Eventually, when it's all new, it might work.:D
 
Damm dude you dodged a huge bullet there :flash: Is this cross fire a must? can you swap it out for a more modern FI system?? somebody is trying to give you a sign i think :sweat:
 
kwplot34 said:
Damm dude you dodged a huge bullet there :flash: Is this cross fire a must? can you swap it out for a more modern FI system?? somebody is trying to give you a sign i think :sweat:
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DBuster, I have a complete TPI system except for the Throttle body for 50 bux or so off ebay.....

even got a computer and chip....but no wiring, easily gotten though....junkyard style....

but here is a suggestion....when you examine the two IAC motor wirings, are the exact same positions and color codings exactly the same from one connector to the other, and are the wires matching up to be exactly in parallel with each other, and not maybe two wires or worse being reversed in one motor??? those green wh/bk and blue wh/bk can be differant in the positions from plug to plug and if someone took a plug off a junkyard car and tried using it on YOUR application....there can well be a problem....

I have found this out with nearly ideantical IACs on my TPI over the years....

don't ASK...please, :cussing::cussing::fishing::thumbs::surrender: so pay attention that any specific wire goes to the correct point in the connector do NOT RELY on the color codes alone......
 
Gene,

Thanks for the help. I have been gathering connectors and wiring today. The IAC motor plugs are spliced in parallel. I am going to make all new harnesses, and follow the schematic to a T. I got some connectors from NAPA, and the rest are coming out of Texas tommorow. I will probably take my ECM back to O'reillys for a swap to rule everything out.

I don't think that I am going to reinstall the connectors for the Air pump since it has been removed. That will clean up under the hood some. Is there a problem with removing the EGR valve, or is this something that I should leave alone.

Thanks

Herb
 
kwplot34 said:
Damm dude you dodged a huge bullet there :flash: Is this cross fire a must? can you swap it out for a more modern FI system?? somebody is trying to give you a sign i think :sweat:
Click to expand...


Kevin,

You might be right about removing the CFI, but I think I'm going to give it 1 more chance. I do think that there is a black cloud hanging over my head.:rain:
 
Dirtbuster1 said:
Gene,

Thanks for the help. I have been gathering connectors and wiring today. The IAC motor plugs are spliced in parallel. I am going to make all new harnesses, and follow the schematic to a T. I got some connectors from NAPA, and the rest are coming out of Texas tommorow. I will probably take my ECM back to O'reillys for a swap to rule everything out.

I don't think that I am going to reinstall the connectors for the Air pump since it has been removed. That will clean up under the hood some. Is there a problem with removing the EGR valve, or is this something that I should leave alone.

Thanks

Herb
Click to expand...

Two thoughts here, and my experience is with the 81 feedback carb model, and not an 82. I did, however have an 88 TBI truck.
81-82 ECMS are rudamentary at best, and a commodore 64 is better. :nuts:
Disconnecting an EGR or A.I.R gulp valve may or may not throw a code. ANY code will send the thing into open loop, and will never give you a good operation. Open loop is for system failure to default to preset settings barely adequate to limp home to the dealer.
BEING a rude computer, there are also diodes across every load that may cause a transient voltage spike. You may notice the tiny diode across the A/C clutch connection, A.I R. solenoids, and other places. ANY of these fail, and you may spike out the ECM. I had a gulp valve solenoid burn out, took out the diodes and the ECM. Although they wanted $80 for the gulp/diverter valve in the 90's, it has since been discontinued. Places want upwards of $600 for a NOS unit. (Sorry for the rant)
Also, make certain of the quality of the ECM ground wire that goes directly to the engine. If missing/loose, you will get some wierd stuff happeneing.
 
Jeff,

I think that Marck said the Air Pump connectors were just sensory connectors. I think he said that they would not affect anything. However since I removed the Air Pump while installing the headers, things have not seemed right. This is something that needs to be double checked.

Thoughts!
 
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