Lets talk ignition boxes

Also, I know that this thread is about ignitions(sorry about the hijack), but one more question....is the melonized gear a good replacement for the brass dizzy gear? With the DUI, I can get either one and have been told to get the mel gear.

GM accepts the melonised gear for ALL camshafts. The brass ones are trash, and when you use a HV oil pump, they chew up quick. I would not take one as a gift. Honest.;)
 
All kidding aside, I have driven Kevin's car, and it revs beyond the limits of good point performance. His trigger ignition is fine for his application.

Smokey, if you INSIST on an upgrade, I can't say enough about the DUI HEI. I have one in the 81, and it is troublefree.

I'll have to get with Kevin to see what his specs are. I am leaving revs on the table right now. The street/strip DUI is suppose to rev cleanly to 7000RPM. I need good control up to 6000-6500 RPM. I can get to 6k, but it is not consistent. My engine is far from stock. Forged bottom, hyd roller, 10.7 CR.

I know that you don't really like the Mallory Unilite. Do you know anything about the Mallory 75 series?

With the DUI, I'll get a little more than I need. With the Mal 75/hyfire box, I'll get a lot more than I need....at a higher price.

Also, I know that this thread is about ignitions(sorry about the hijack), but one more question....is the melonized gear a good replacement for the brass dizzy gear? With the DUI, I can get either one and have been told to get the mel gear.

Here is the list of parts i am using for my ignition.
Mallory High fire 6AL ign box
MSD blaster HVC II coil
MSD pro billet dizzy
Taylor 8.8 plug wires
NGK R5671A-8 plugs

And the Book "How to build High-Performance ignition systems" by Todd Ryden,is a good book to read,i purchased one at Barnes & Noble.
 
An ignition box can do many things for you. It can produce multiple spark each time the plug fires up to 3000rpm some of the newer models can maintain it even longer giving a better idle and easier start up,they can give you a hotter spark through 6000rpm,they can also enhance the dwell controll resulting in spark improvements,they can be used as a rev limiter some having a single stage and others can have multiple rev limit stages,you can add other controllers to them,like an advance and retard timing controller for cars that run boost or nitrous,some dizzys require an ign box like the MSD pro billet. For the money that an ign box cost like a 6a or 6al (l=limiter) $160 or less,they are a good,easy,upgrade to any ignition system.

IMO they are worth installing,and not a heavy brick or a waste of money.

Rev limiters are for "girly men.":quote::tomato::tomato::tomato:

yeah "girly men.":whose engines tend to stay together rather than throwing expensive broken parts and oil under the car when a clutch fails, or a torque converter or u-joint fails........winning requires being able to run without breaking

Grumpster
1)Kevin is an old friend, and i was teasing him.
2)I thought we were talking street here. I can see a rev limiter on the strip, but on the street, eh.
 
All kidding aside, I have driven Kevin's car, and it revs beyond the limits of good point performance. His trigger ignition is fine for his application.

Smokey, if you INSIST on an upgrade, I can't say enough about the DUI HEI. I have one in the 81, and it is troublefree.

I'll have to get with Kevin to see what his specs are. I am leaving revs on the table right now. The street/strip DUI is suppose to rev cleanly to 7000RPM. I need good control up to 6000-6500 RPM. I can get to 6k, but it is not consistent. My engine is far from stock. Forged bottom, hyd roller, 10.7 CR.

I know that you don't really like the Mallory Unilite. Do you know anything about the Mallory 75 series?

With the DUI, I'll get a little more than I need. With the Mal 75/hyfire box, I'll get a lot more than I need....at a higher price.

Also, I know that this thread is about ignitions(sorry about the hijack), but one more question....is the melonized gear a good replacement for the brass dizzy gear? With the DUI, I can get either one and have been told to get the mel gear.

Here is the list of parts i am using for my ignition.
Mallory High fire 6AL ign box
MSD blaster HVC II coil
MSD pro billet dizzy
Taylor 8.8 plug wires
NGK R5671A-8 plugs

And the Book "How to build High-Performance ignition systems" by Todd Ryden,is a good book to read,i purchased one at Barnes & Noble.

Thanks...and what does it sit on?:D
 
YES,do not take Jeff's comments towards me serious,he is just joking with me and we are very good friends and he has driven my car,actually he has driven it pretty hard :amazed:. Jeff always jokes with me about the parts and the amount of money i have put into my motor,it's all in fun :thumbs:

I do tend to go over kill on performance parts for my car, do the extra parts and money improve its performance :quote: OH hell yeah :bounce: do i need them since i do not race the car :skeptic: NO. But as Jeff put's "I have it bad" and i have had bad with everything i own :) But i do it because i can and i enjoy upgrading my motor.
Next on my list of upgrades after i get my car painted this winter is a Jesel belt drive for the timing,and i will either go to a crank trigger or move the dizzy to the front of the motor and use the MSD Belt driven dizzy that runs off the belt drive :surrender:
DO i need it NO, but oh what fun it will be :bounce::bounce::bounce:
 
My motor is a stroker SBC 389 CI.
All forged internals from scat,internally balanced.
Scat I-beam 6.00" 4340 forged rods
Scat 5140 forged 3.75" crank
King race brgs
SRP plasma file fit moly rings
KB pistons
11:1 comp
Brodix IK200 heads
Brodix pro bracket II HV1016 intake
Howards hyd roller cam. 230in/230ex. lift 510in/510ex. 108 lc
Howards severe duty roller lifters
Comp cams 1.6 roller lifters
Manely push rods
Melling HV oil pump
Dynomax headers
Holley 750 DP,with a proform base plate
March serp belt system
Dewitts rad with dual spal fans
Super T-10 4spd trans
3:70 gears
VP110 racing fuel

Plus all the ignition parts i listed above.
 
My motor is a stroker SBC 389 CI.
All forged internals from scat,internally balanced.
Scat I-beam 6.00" 4340 forged rods
Scat 5140 forged 3.75" crank
King race brgs
SRP plasma file fit moly rings
KB pistons
11:1 comp
Brodix IK200 heads
Brodix pro bracket II HV1016 intake
Howards hyd roller cam. 230in/230ex. lift 510in/510ex. 108 lc
Howards severe duty roller lifters
Comp cams 1.6 roller lifters
Manely push rods
Melling HV oil pump
Dynomax headers
Holley 750 DP,with a proform base plate
March serp belt system
Dewitts rad with dual spal fans
Super T-10 4spd trans
3:70 gears
VP110 racing fuel

Plus all the ignition parts i listed above.


Nice! Thx for posting. Now back to your regularly scheduled thread:D
 
Gene is correct. I have more imagination under the hood than actual stuff.

In any case, I am currently slowly ripping apart the front of the car working towards fixed fia headlights and a new bumper.

Till then I am imagination land. I see people that buy these things and nobody ever really describes what they actually DO.

In any case: This is the current thought.

355 with a forged crank, H-beam rods

Dart Pro 1 200cc platinum heads with the CNC port matching, bowl work, and chambers, and a cooling port added underneath the center exhaust port.

Pistons will depend on the volume the CNC porting adds. The goal is 11-11.5:1 compression.

The camshaft will be a GM 12370847 camshaft 234/242 at .05 on a 112 LSA. Its a Crane camshaft, and every reference of people who use it say its a decent hot-rod cam. I also have some 1.6 ratio crower roller rockers, OE hydraulic roller lifters, AFR Hydra-Rev kit, I am open to suggestion on push rods.

According to the handy dandy DCR calculator it says that this should have a good 8:1 DCR.

Edelbrock RPM Airgap intake, mainly because it has rear coolant ports and it did better on Grumpy's intake thread than the dart intake did.

Speed Demon 650cfm with vacuum secondaries (Based upon the barry grant demon selection guide and the cam card). The demons have down leg boosters in the 650 cfm carbs which is hella better than the straight boosters of the holley 650cfm carbs. Both the Holley and Barry Grant selection guides say vacuum secondaries.

I have a nice set of hooker side mounts that I got used for a song.

Cooling is the fun part:
Coolant ports under the exhaust ports
rear coolant ports attached to a moroso waterneck like Gkull has
Stewart Stage 3 waterpump
dewitts radiator and electric fans
Oil cooler with thermostat
fuel cooler (maybe)

Ignition:
Mallory Hyfire 6AL box
Mallory Distributer
Mallory 29440 55000v coil

Mallory High Pressure Fuel Pump and pressure regulated fuel log

Titan Speed oil pump with custom oil pan and a Milodon Diamond stripper windage tray

Clevite H bearings

I am thinking that with my M21 I would use a 3.9:1 rearend ratio, If I get an aftermarket transmission I would get the M22W from www.5speeds.com I would go to a 3.36:1 rearend.
 
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An ignition box can do many things for you. It can produce multiple spark each time the plug fires up to 3000rpm some of the newer models can maintain it even longer giving a better idle and easier start up,they can give you a hotter spark through 6000rpm,they can also enhance the dwell controll resulting in spark improvements,they can be used as a rev limiter some having a single stage and others can have multiple rev limit stages,you can add other controllers to them,like an advance and retard timing controller for cars that run boost or nitrous,some dizzys require an ign box like the MSD pro billet. For the money that an ign box cost like a 6a or 6al (l=limiter) $160 or less,they are a good,easy,upgrade to any ignition system.

IMO they are worth installing,and not a heavy brick or a waste of money.

Rev limiters are for "girly men.":quote::tomato::tomato::tomato:

I can hit the rev limiter (7,000) in less than a second in first gear. I think I'll keep it, TYVM.....:lol:
 
Just for you Jeff i lightened up the return spring tension so you can drive it bare footed now,and the throttle return spring :suspicious:

Great Kevin. Yours is the first car I ever drove where the accelerator pedal felt like a second clutch pedal.:huh:
 
Just for you Jeff i lightened up the return spring tension so you can drive it bare footed now,and the throttle return spring :suspicious:

Great Kevin. Yours is the first car I ever drove where the accelerator pedal felt like a second clutch pedal.:huh:

Around town I really don't care, but on the road, I need heavy up that return spring too....keep forgetting......

so shut up about CRS already.....

:trumpet::harhar:
 
I am considering an Accel 300+ IGNITION (UNIVERSAL) #49300 for RamJet. Today, I am using an old analog MSD 6a, and from what I hear that is a roadside adventure waiting to happen. RamJet has the dual sync distributor running sequential injection, and needs an ignition module. The Accel module is a lot smaller than most that I have seen and the price has now fallen to boot. ~$150

Still pretty expensive for what it is, but for what I need, I haven't stumbled across anything better. Why someone doesn't come up with a simple low cost solution integrated to support sequential injection is beyond me. Maybe I should wait and go to coil on plug when it comes out.

49300.jpg


:drink:
Bullshark
 
Dont know anything about it, but Mallory makes a distributer specifically for EFI systems.
 
Dont know anything about it, but Mallory makes a distributer specifically for EFI systems.

For sequential injection it would have to have both cam and crank sync position sensors along with the integrated ignition controller. I don't remember seeing anything like that. Unless it is a brand new released product?

Bullshark
 
OK, can someone explain what these fancy dan expensive systems will bring to the table for engines running less than 6 grand, and then IF I did a crank trigger which is something I have considered.....what that would do if integrated into a OEM HEI system .....what's the diff?? the indexing of the spark would be same as hei,...but the internal trigger wheel is disconnected and so runs off a crank trigger.....for the 'accuracy'....any significant improvement??

:shocking:
 
The major advantage of a crank trigger system is accuracy, there is no gear set or chain or belt. The signal is always dead on accurate giving you a true crank position. A chain will stretch and snake around @ high rpms, a belt will stretch also but will absorb harmonics better, a gear set will transmit harmonics. All these factors contribute to a cam driven distributor not being dead on accurate in respect to crank position.

For a street car? fugheddaboudit!
 
OK, can someone explain what these fancy dan expensive systems will bring to the table for engines running less than 6 grand, and then IF I did a crank trigger which is something I have considered.....what that would do if integrated into a OEM HEI system .....what's the diff?? the indexing of the spark would be same as hei,...but the internal trigger wheel is disconnected and so runs off a crank trigger.....for the 'accuracy'....any significant improvement??

:shocking:

You don't need it Gene,so stay away from them,these fancy systems will give you no noticeable improvement. save your money for fuel.
 
OK, can someone explain what these fancy dan expensive systems will bring to the table for engines running less than 6 grand, and then IF I did a crank trigger which is something I have considered.....what that would do if integrated into a OEM HEI system .....what's the diff?? the indexing of the spark would be same as hei,...but the internal trigger wheel is disconnected and so runs off a crank trigger.....for the 'accuracy'....any significant improvement??

:shocking:

You don't need it Gene,so stay away from them,these fancy systems will give you no noticeable improvement. save your money for fuel.

That has been my demonstrated experience too, multi sparks good for over rich idle only, other than that, about no use....
not for anything streetable, anyway....any cam good to over 6 grand idles about 1500 rpm and something John Force may use....

:smash::lol:
 
OK, can someone explain what these fancy dan expensive systems will bring to the table for engines running less than 6 grand, and then IF I did a crank trigger which is something I have considered.....what that would do if integrated into a OEM HEI system .....what's the diff?? the indexing of the spark would be same as hei,...but the internal trigger wheel is disconnected and so runs off a crank trigger.....for the 'accuracy'....any significant improvement??

:shocking:

You don't need it Gene,so stay away from them,these fancy systems will give you no noticeable improvement. save your money for fuel.

That has been my demonstrated experience too, multi sparks good for over rich idle only, other than that, about no use....
not for anything streetable, anyway....any cam good to over 6 grand idles about 1500 rpm and something John Force may use....

:smash::lol:

Gene,that was sarcasm,ign boxes serve a purpose and serve it well,not for motors that run rich at an idle.But in your case just stay away from them,they will serve no purpose for you,it will just clutter up your motor compartment.
 
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