cant get the last bolt out, why is it always the last bolt to get stuck

Frankenvette

Frankenvette

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Joined
Apr 1, 2008
Messages
15
Location
Hickory, NC
Removing the front suspension, but I can't get one of the lower bolts that holds the brake dust shield off. This bolt passes thru the shield and is held on by a nut on the back side. I got the nut off already, but the bolt won't slide out. There are no threads on this part of the bolt yet it won't budge. I've hit it with heat, PB Blaster and a bfh but the bolt will not move. Any other tricks that I have not thought of?
 
If I remember correctly there is no thread on that part of the bolt so it's probably just rusted/seized in place. Which bolt is it exactly (photos below) ?

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IMG_4718.jpg

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IMG_4719.jpg
 
MYBAD79 said:
If I remember correctly there is no thread on that part of the bolt so it's probably just rusted/seized in place. Which bolt is it exactly (photos below) ?

.

IMG_4718.jpg

.

IMG_4719.jpg
Click to expand...

In your pic it is the upper left and yes there is no thread on this part of the bold. I've tried everything including a heavy duty electric impact wrench. It just won't release and is holding up my project.

Thanks
 
Ya know, it's ALWAYS ONE bolt out of however many in any project....and it don't matter what the project is....ONE damn bolt is a muvvafucker.....

in this case I would take the edge grinder/cutter angle cutter and cut the head enough that a air chisel will take it apart from there....I had to do that on some project just the other day, two bolts, actually....:hissyfit::crylol::clobbered:

my cutter/grinder is like 35 bux Ryobi at HD.....wheels are super cheep at Harbor Freight....

:nuts:
 
Persistence is the key. I've dealt with more than my share of rust/corrosion and stubborn fasteners here in the rust belt.
Just change your angle of attack, and attack again and again.
Heat & shock have been a winning combo for me.
 
Restoring Model T's for years has taught me the best.
Soak it with PB blaster. Heat with Map gas red hot. Let cool. It WILL come out.:nuts:
 
big2bird said:
Restoring Model T's for years has taught me the best.
Soak it with PB blaster. Heat with Map gas red hot. Let cool. It WILL come out.:nuts:
Click to expand...

You know, I was thinking that perhaps Map gas would be a better solution. No local hardware store so I had to stop a wallyworld. Picked up some blue propane canisters but they did not stock the yellow Map canisters. May have to stop by Lowes before the weekend. Should I heat up the bolt or the steering knuckle that the bolt passes thru?
 
Avoid overheating the spindle .... If it really doesn't want to move then hit it with a centerpunch and drill it out.... sounds like you already have the spindle assembly off the car so it shouldn't be that big of a deal to drill a 3/8" hole. Start smaller (1/4" maybe, then 5/16") take some heat and then the electric impact to the weakened (drilled) bolt... if it snaps drill 3/8" to clean the hole....
 
i would think soaking it and using an impact hammer or impact gun would work on it....just hammer it with an impact hammer for a couple of times each day and keep soaking it.


i guess you could put it in the oven and get it nice and toasty and then put ice cubes of the head of the bolt.
 
bobs77vet said:
i would think soaking it and using an impact hammer or impact gun would work on it....just hammer it with an impact hammer for a couple of times each day and keep soaking it.


i guess you could put it in the oven and get it nice and toasty and then put ice cubes of the head of the bolt.
Click to expand...

This is exactly what I've been doing and so far no movement of the bolt. The impact hammer has simply been making a lot of noise so far but nothing else. I'll keep soaking, using the impact wrench, heat and a bfh. At some point this bolt has to give.
 
Frankenvette said:
big2bird said:
Restoring Model T's for years has taught me the best.
Soak it with PB blaster. Heat with Map gas red hot. Let cool. It WILL come out.:nuts:
Click to expand...

You know, I was thinking that perhaps Map gas would be a better solution. No local hardware store so I had to stop a wallyworld. Picked up some blue propane canisters but they did not stock the yellow Map canisters. May have to stop by Lowes before the weekend. Should I heat up the bolt or the steering knuckle that the bolt passes thru?
Click to expand...

The bolt. The heat expands it, and when it cools, it shrinks then snaps free. Toss the bolt when out. It tends to weaken the hardening.

If you HAVE to save the fastener, I use a milder heat, and cycle it a few times. I have broken free brass jets from 80 year old cast iron carbs this way.
Keep it soaking. I even squirt them while still hot.
 
Frankenvette said:
bobs77vet said:
i would think soaking it and using an impact hammer or impact gun would work on it....just hammer it with an impact hammer for a couple of times each day and keep soaking it.


i guess you could put it in the oven and get it nice and toasty and then put ice cubes of the head of the bolt.
Click to expand...

This is exactly what I've been doing and so far no movement of the bolt. The impact hammer has simply been making a lot of noise so far but nothing else. I'll keep soaking, using the impact wrench, heat and a bfh. At some point this bolt has to give.
Click to expand...



do you remember my tilt front 69 vert with the fugly gas cap on the side.....the right rear caliper was origninal even though all the others had been changed at least once....they were all crap any way by the time i got the car so i changed them all for new ones...well there was one bolt on the that original caliper that i had to heat with a rose bud and use an impact on to free it.....i couldnt beleive it, the last guys that did the brake job just ignored it since it was too difficult. try heating it and hitting it with a wax candle sometimes this works really well the wax gets sucked into the threads and loosens things up
 
I finally got it off. I hit it with heat for about 5 minutes, then hit it with a bfh and then sprayed it with PB Blaster. Repeated about 3 times. Then starting using my impact wrench. I saw the bolt turn about 1/32" and then started the whole process all over again. Finally, the bolt released. Since the brake dust shield bolts have no stress on them, I'll be replacing with stainless steel bolts.
 
No stress on them? They hold the caliper bracket and the steering arm. They are not high grade fine thread fasteners for nothing.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
No stress on them? They hold the caliper bracket and the steering arm. They are not high grade fine thread fasteners for nothing.
Click to expand...

After I typed my last posting I realized my mistake about stress on the bolts. I'd like to find grade 8 stainless steel. I'm sure they are out there but probably expensive. I'll replace with grade 8 but lots of anti-seize.
 
Why would you want to do that?
When are you going to remove these bolts again? Maybe in 30 years time or so?
I would use the original bolt quality an install them with Never-Seez or so.
Cor
 
I seem to recall that SS is considerably weaker in shear than standard steel so you may not find a grade 8 stainless?

OK a guick Google says most stainless bolts are about a Grade 2 but ARP does offer stainless in Grade 8.

BTW, did you know that grade 8 is inadequate for aircraft? I wonder what stainless is available in AN hardware?

Back to Google.....
 
I dunno, any time I concerned with rust accumulation in a bolt....I use RTV on the threads...good lube and never leaks...never rusts....from head bolts through anything....I don't understand the problems....

:nuts::clobbered:
 
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