Best way to shave down brake pads?

I'd like to get a set of speedbleeders for my Wilwood calipers, but I'm not sure what the thread size is on the present bleeders. I can't find any useful info in the Wilwood catalog or on their website. Anybody know this information? If I keep striking out perhaps I'll just give Wilwood a call on Monday.

Thanks.
 
I don't have any Wilwoods here to check but they are likely 1/4-28. That's the size that Summit lists for Wilwood.

Mike, did you see my question in the ignition topic?
 
BBShark said:
I don't have any Wilwoods here to check but they are likely 1/4-28. That's the size that Summit lists for Wilwood. I'll take a peek at the Summit site and see what they say. These calipers have a two piece bleeder setup, with the bleeder threading into a seat piece, that then threads into the caliper.

Mike, did you see my question in the ignition topic?
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Yeah I saw it, but then spaced out and forgot to write something up. Sorry. :blush: I'll get something organized and posted up soon.
 
I put a metal valve stem with the core removed in a spare master cylinder cap. Then I used a garden sprayer and installed a low pressure gauge. Slipped the end of the hose over the valve stem. Could flush or bleed the entire system by myself and quickly. And could watch what was coming out of the system. Just had to keep a watch on the fluid level in the master cylinder.

Works like the Motive Power bleed. But, with only the cost of the valve stem, since I had the other parts.

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Got brakes!

Took the car out for a test drive this evening, and things are working well. I got some speed bleeders for the calipers the other day and bled the crap out of the system. While I was ordering the bleeders I decided to go with a higher coefficient pad for the calipers too. Between the two operations (more bleeding and different pads) the pedal is firm, and damn! the car stops with half the pedal effort (okay, maybe not half, but a very noticeable improvement). I'm trying to do a track day next week, and I'm looking forward to seeing how these pads do when hot.
 
racervette69 said:
Nothing like good brakes! What pad did you end up with?
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I was running the E compound but I'm trying the B compound now. The temperature vs friction coefficient graphs indicate that the B compound is about 20-25% higher bite. Hopefully it's not too rough on the rotors.


Turtle, do you recall what pads you've run on your car?
 
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Run a DPI recirculator and you will never have to worry about pesky brake bleeding ever again. The recirculator tubes are available for most wilwood calipers.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
Run a DPI recirculator and you will never have to worry about pesky brake bleeding ever again. The recirculator tubes are available for most wilwood calipers.
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:surrender: OK, gotta ask, What is it, and why?? and how??

:eek:
 
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turtlevette said:
69427 said:
Turtle, do you recall what pads you've run on your car?
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BP-10 smart pads
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The friction vs temp curves for that and the E compound are so close I don't understand why they make both pads. I would think that just their manufacturing tolerances would be more than the difference the graph shows.
 
I ran the Wilwood B compound on both axles yesterday on the track. Craploads more braking grip than the E pads. Unless rotor life suffers too much with this compound I believe I'm going to enjoy the upgrade.
 
i need to have a compound that is streetable with excellent cold stopping ability. The BP-10 is probably the best for me. Those other compounds can get quite pricey.

I have a whole box of different compounds (race car takeoffs) i got on ebay for a dollar. Problem is, it's impossible for me to identify what is what. I assume the green are gator pads. I wish we could run together somewhere one day. How far a drive would Mosport or Watkins Glen be for you? Both tracks are must try.
 
turtlevette said:
i need to have a compound that is streetable with excellent cold stopping ability. The BP-10 is probably the best for me. Those other compounds can get quite pricey. I looked at the Cf/temp curves for all the Wilwood pads, and they're all good cold. There's none that has a low coefficient at low temps.

I have a whole box of different compounds (race car takeoffs) i got on ebay for a dollar. Problem is, it's impossible for me to identify what is what. I assume the green are gator pads. I wish we could run together somewhere one day. How far a drive would Mosport or Watkins Glen be for you? Both tracks are must try.
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All the Wilwood pads are stamped on the back side for compound identification. I don't know about other brands for Wilwood calipers.

I'd certainly like to try a few more tracks. However some are just damn far away from me (Kansas City). I was at Gingerman this week (Michigan) and it was 13 hours of hauling time (and several fuel stops) to get there. New York or eastern Canada is going to add quite a few additional hours on top of that.
 
69427 said:
[All the Wilwood pads are stamped on the back side for compound identification
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I'll have to take a closer look then.

Gingerman looks pretty flat, although i wouldn't mind trying it too. I've been on several here on the east coast and Canada but want to try as many as possible.
 
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