Yellow73SB
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2008
- Messages
- 1,201
Most everything on the chassis is cotter pinned
And I've been meaning to get the french locks for the half shafts
Anal retentive practices or not.
- Thread starter big2bird
- Start date
Most everything on the chassis is cotter pinned
And I've been meaning to get the french locks for the half shafts
big2bird
Charter Member, Founder Bird-Run, Cruise-In Bird-R
My personal anal thing is oil leaks. That engine will run forever with them, but annoy the hell out of me. It just doesn't take long to fix, and makes it so much easier to work on a clean engine. It keeps the engine clean, the driveway clean, hoses last longer(all rubber), and it's better for the earth.
But, my Model T leaks. It's just the design of the time. There is nothing you can do about it, and it's just the nature of the beast.
OK, I'll bring the C2 over and YOU can do the rear main seal.:friends:
I'm not anal about anything. Well, maybe.................no, not even that.:amused:
Bring it over.:search:
enkeivette
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2008
- Messages
- 990
My personal anal thing is oil leaks. That engine will run forever with them, but annoy the hell out of me. It just doesn't take long to fix, and makes it so much easier to work on a clean engine. It keeps the engine clean, the driveway clean, hoses last longer(all rubber), and it's better for the earth.
But, my Model T leaks. It's just the design of the time. There is nothing you can do about it, and it's just the nature of the beast.
OK, I'll bring the C2 over and YOU can do the rear main seal.:friends:
I'm not anal about anything. Well, maybe.................no, not even that.:amused:
Bring it over.:search:
I think Glenn meant to say, I'll bring the C2 over and YOU can do the rear main seal for FREE. :bounce:
Kid Vette
Master-Baiter
:withstupid: The only thing I use a torque wrench for is rod, main and head bolts. I figure I can sense bolt stretch better than a torque wrench.
BRUTAL64
Neanderthal
My personal anal thing is oil leaks. That engine will run forever with them, but annoy the hell out of me. It just doesn't take long to fix, and makes it so much easier to work on a clean engine. It keeps the engine clean, the driveway clean, hoses last longer(all rubber), and it's better for the earth.
But, my Model T leaks. It's just the design of the time. There is nothing you can do about it, and it's just the nature of the beast.
OK, I'll bring the C2 over and YOU can do the rear main seal.:friends:
I'm not anal about anything. Well, maybe.................no, not even that.:amused:
Bring it over.:search:
I think Glenn meant to say, I'll bring the C2 over and YOU can do the rear main seal for FREE. :bounce:
Hey, I like that. I'll drop it off and pick it up in 2 hours. COOL.:loveletter:
TheSkunkWorks
Well-known member
IMHO "anal" and "Bubba" are on the opposite ends of the same scale. Depending on the particular item being addressed, there are times where one might well get away with some Bubbafication, while there are others where highly precise workmanship is necessitated. As for items for which there is debate where on this scale one ought to be, I'd think it always the better practice to err towards the "anal" side, and I personally can't bring myself to settle for less than craftsman-like work whenever it's practical to do a better job.
Engine building is obviously an area where opinions vary widely as to what practices are prudent and what are excessive. While one may get away with throwing parts together, such practice is akin to rolling dice - do it long enough and sooner or later your going to crap out. Full blown blueprinting may not be required in order to build a capable and reliable lump, but it is definitely worth doing if high performance is a priority, as seemingly insignificant details can and do have a substantial impact on output and durability.
Case in point... When I began campaigning my first dedicated [drag] race car, I relied on a highly reputable race shop to assemble the engine. A few weeks into the season it dropped a valve, and upon inspection I found a few tolerances out of spec from those specified. Did my own assembly work on the next bullet, built to the identical specs as before without compromise; the result being an engine that not only finished the season without another failure, but one which ran a few tenths stronger as well. Haven't paid anyone else to assemble an engine build since, and always get top notch machine work given they know I'll be back if something isn't on the money.
To me, that's prudence, but I digress... In large part this is one of those "to each his own" things with as many right answers as differences of opinion, but can we all agree that doing coast-downs to see which wax finish produces the least aerodynamic drag would be anal (don't be afraid to share the data if you've actually done it), and that hammering the strut rods out of shape to adjust rear camber is Bubba (best keep that one to yourself)?
:beer:
Engine building is obviously an area where opinions vary widely as to what practices are prudent and what are excessive. While one may get away with throwing parts together, such practice is akin to rolling dice - do it long enough and sooner or later your going to crap out. Full blown blueprinting may not be required in order to build a capable and reliable lump, but it is definitely worth doing if high performance is a priority, as seemingly insignificant details can and do have a substantial impact on output and durability.
Case in point... When I began campaigning my first dedicated [drag] race car, I relied on a highly reputable race shop to assemble the engine. A few weeks into the season it dropped a valve, and upon inspection I found a few tolerances out of spec from those specified. Did my own assembly work on the next bullet, built to the identical specs as before without compromise; the result being an engine that not only finished the season without another failure, but one which ran a few tenths stronger as well. Haven't paid anyone else to assemble an engine build since, and always get top notch machine work given they know I'll be back if something isn't on the money.
To me, that's prudence, but I digress... In large part this is one of those "to each his own" things with as many right answers as differences of opinion, but can we all agree that doing coast-downs to see which wax finish produces the least aerodynamic drag would be anal (don't be afraid to share the data if you've actually done it), and that hammering the strut rods out of shape to adjust rear camber is Bubba (best keep that one to yourself)?
:beer: