Adjustable Strut Rod Installation

I got my adjustable strut rods in today with no instructions. They were shipped from Corvette America. They came with bolts and washers, but CA stated they were used for shipping only.

So my question is do I continue use my camber bolts from the stock struts. If so there is not enough space to install the cap washer used on the adjustment side. The new ones come with metal caps on both sides. Also does it matter where you set the camber bolt since the struts are adjustable?

Next question is it appears that the lower mounting at the shock bolt doesn't have space for the metal caps installed on the new struts. The original struts did't use it, so I'm assuming that the new ones don't need them either.

2 to 3 hours installing these new struts wasn't fun. I just want to make sure they are installed correctly.

Hard to say without a photo of what you actually did.... the adjustable rods do not need the stock camber bolt, the square washers are used to "adapt" the new rod end to the existing bracket and center the new bolt (new bolts should be included in your kit). In theory you get less wheel camber change if you use the stock camber bolt and set it to the lowest setting - I highly doubt that that 1/8" makes a noticeable difference.
I would not use the stock bolt, only a ordinary grade 8 straight bolt, that's all it needs, adjustment is done by the threaded rods only.
Post a photo of the setup so we can see and tell you if you did it right or wrong :thumbs:

You got the gold cad colored ones right???

You actually need 2 of the bolts and all the washers! There should also be cups in them,, you only need 2 to reduce the 1/2" hole to 3/8 (size of the cam bolt) The cups are NOT used on the outside, the shock bolt is 1/2" through the bearing support. The caps are nothing more than reducers, pull them out!

Also, MAKE SURE the urethane FITS! There's a ridge on the forks of the bearing support, the urethane and even the metal outer part will rub, some grinding is needed there.

You should NOT use the exxenctrics on the cam bolt, in fact it's even better to replace the cam bolts w/ regular bolts because without the flats they're stronger. Anyway, you should have a set of square shim plates that go with them. They go in the camber bracket.

Here's some pics of the same rods installed (most likely) BTW, check if the threads on the poly ends are welded on straight. I had one that was soooo crooked, it wasn't even funny.

This is why you need shims:


This thing is soo crooked


Square plates for eccentric slot


Dat shiat don't fit worth a fawk!!!! Check this before you drive, if you don't this will squeek like mad and eat up the bushing!

I have the same rods (MidAmerica) but mine are straight.... talk about quality control or lack of it.... looks like you got the junk - they know you're not going to return it from 5000 miles away....

You know, I'm convinced they do that...we always get the junk!

Twin_Turbo said:

You know, I'm convinced they do that...we always get the junk!

Click to expand...

I thought you were against poly strut rods:huh:

That is not my car hell, my car doesn't even have strut rods

TT,

It looks like I got the same struts. I called Corvette America and they told me not to use any of the bolts, or square plates that came with them.:huh:
I wondered why they would ship them like that, and say not to use any of it. Anyway I reinstalled the camber bolts " not knowing any better " and adjusted them for the shortest length. I fiqured that this would be the strongest.

It will be a pain in the ass to remove them. The bearing support was tight, but I pushed them in by hand. Is there any way to support the suspension to get them out & in easier. It seems like the wheels want to creep towards the front of the car, binding everything up. When the halfs reach close to level the struts line up better. All of the cocking straightens up.

I haven't set the camber yet, so what do I need to do?

You need to undo the spring bolts, then it won't be as much of a PITA to install.

I got all of the adjustments to the struts made, & dialed it into about a 1/2 degree of negitive camber. Looks like my passenger side toe is off. It appears to be pointing out just a bit. I'm probably going to put in on a friend of mines alignment machine this week and make all of the final adjustments. Either I will do it or help while it's being done, to make sure it's right.

I guess this comes too late, but.....

The reason the catalog vendors ship wrong stuff or tell you wrong info is that they are a warehouse full of kids pulling parts that they have no clue what they are, who are only thinking about where the party is tonite and that new chick in shipping sure is cute. The people up the ladder may be knowledgeable to a point, but they run a mail order business with 10,000 part numbers & details to keep track of. They are thinking about truck shipments & costs & storage space.

Even though typically I pay a bit more, I much prefer to go to the source for my parts. The manufacturer is usually a smaller more personally involved concern. You can (usually!) call & talk to them and they know what they are talking about. Yes, they have to think about their business--but usually what's going through their head is "How can fix that understeer before next weekends race?" and "We got an idea for a new widget to fix this problem."

(OK, sorry, I'll quit ranting now.)

That said, I don't know if it is still true, but VB&P used to have all their installation instructions & info on the website. I have downloaded stuff several times in the past when I had questions about unknown parts and such. I can't tell you how or where to find it, you'll have to look.

John

I did find VB&P instructions on their site. I don't know who made Corvette America's, but instructions were supposed to be shipped with the parts.

Go figure!

As a side note, the adjustable smart struts for my 80 from VB&P have an offset or angle to them, the rods are NOT straight, nor are they suposed to be. Not sure if it because of the difference in the mountiing bracket due to the aluminum diff but they are defintely not straight. The "left" and "right" label on the rod ends that reflect only which thread direction is on that side, not referencing which side of the strut goes where in relationship to the vette. When installed correctly (you have a 50/50 chance! and it will be readily apparent if you have them wrong as if I remember correctly they need to point rearward) the rods slipped right into both the diff bracket and the shock mount after jacking up the trailing arm. Just didnt want a late model C3 to get the smart struts and see the offset and think there was something wrong.