The latest on the air pumps.....

mrvette

mrvette

Phantom of the Opera
Joined
Mar 24, 2008
Messages
15,194
Location
NE Florida
Quote:
Originally Posted by 010752
I didn't want any you to run out and get this pump and especially make mounting brackets etc, just to find out it didn't pump enough.

I disconnected both the inlet and outlet hoses and fired up the engine. Keep in mind the Ford 4.9L (300 cu in) straight 6 is about as close as to a diesel as a gas engine gets, very torquey and low max rpm. I didn't bother to hook up a tach but my guesses should be close enough.

At idle 650rpm = approx 1" vacuum
At approx 1500 rpm = 10"
At approx 2500 rpm = 15"
At at max which should be no more than 3200 rpm = 20"

With the outlet port open it was also pretty noisey and restricting the outlet with my hand obviously reduced the vacuum too. I didn't measure the intake hose, but I'll guess at that too at 1" dia and I would suggest that at least that size is used when trying it.

So I would guess that if you are inclined to go this route, then the pump should be suitable.


my reply......

Well, a few hours ago I found a FORD smog pump on a forgotten shelf in my garage...must be some tear off up north yet and so I pulled it down to look, and inspection....it works fine....fired it up with my electric drill on high speed, and I dunno the Revs on it, but the above is certainly good information....Is that CRANK/ENGINE rpm's or what kind?? if so, what is the approx pulley ratio size?? I have a rather large L98 pulley which naturally fits that Ford pump just fine....same pattern....I was pulling up to 15 psi vac with the drill on full speed....did an easy 5".... just hooked up a bunch of hoses and clamps....used my mani vac gauge...

now to fit it into my L98/bastardised LT1 FI mani/accesory drives....

NOW comes the M/E part....fit that bastard in there without going NUTZZZZ....

stay tuned folks...:D:skeptic:;)
 
Just remember you do not want over 15" of vac or your wrist pins will starve for oil 10-12" will be enough.
Good info posted thanks,i have my pump on the way,started a thread in engine mod's but i can add here did not notice your thread at first.
 
Well, you ran to the other side of the spectrum and didn't say a word,,, Just shame,,shame!!! Have you not Shame???

You'all keep polishing this subject, and I'll just scarf up the good results,, L A M O!!!!! Damn R&D is wonderful and hard work,,,,, my eye balls have whip lash!!!!!
 
Air Pumps Suck.....

IT's one HELL of a Kludge....but....




it works to a certain extent...


at idle I get about 2" vac not so bad, so I rev it in the garage, it quite quickly tops out around 10 maybe 11"......

cute....right in there.....

wanna take it on the road a piece and see what happens....

this is with a well sealed 350 with some 80k++ miles on it....

this is also drawn through the LT1 stock PVC location with just a hose and a T fitting for the vac gauge I been using for decades as a tune up device...

the stock LT1 location, UNLIKE ANY OTHER VALVE COVER LOCATION I HAVE EVER SEEN, NEVER did have any oil in the 3/8 PVC hose to the mani vac...clean as a whistle.....

experiments continue....


oh, this is a FORD airpump with proper hose in and out fittings...about 7/8 diameter....I have NOthing in any lines, no separators, not even a discharge hose on the pressure side of the pump....

and it's in the stock location for a '88 vette, in place of the air pump eliminator kit....

IF I photographed this for a pix....you all would your asses off as to the mechanics..
 
I'm going to be running a Weiss dry sump pump on my next "bullet" so I don't think I need no stinking air pumps:thumbs:
 
Solid LT1 said:
I'm going to be running a Weiss dry sump pump on my next "bullet" so I don't think I need no stinking air pumps:thumbs:
Click to expand...


Phantom sezzz....you maybe want to rethink that...as the reports on DC seem to be that it takes about 35 hp dyno proven drain off the engine from whipping all that air around under the pistons....blasting it back and forth,...so running it under suction of 10" is supposed to aleviate a good bit of that problem....

when runnint it on the freeway some ten miles today blasts up to 100 mph, cruise at 70=80 in traffic most of the way....I find it not so bad at 5-8".... but I wonder about a smaller pulley on the pump, as it's a stock '88 vette diamter of 6"....so if I reduced that to say 4" or so....I could knock 25% off the RPM's....maybe 3" is better, so to make a junkyard run to search that pulley out...but I do note some oil in the suck line, and as posted on DC , I need maybe make a catch can out of a juice can maybe, and put a PCV valve in there to let the oil drain out when the engine stops...?? not sure of the internal structures required there....nice to have the oil drain back into the engine though...automatically by gravity...gotta be a way....maybe just a hose into the drain plug location?? I would think i'ts gotta be under oil all the time, stick a one way valve in there, and case closed....
or maybe drill a hole in the pan...or feed it into the valve cover, but the separator has to be up high then.....better up high anyway....

then IF I have to increase the RPM's of the pump by smaller pulleys....how much for a typical street machine is enough suction?? lets say I double the suctions to the 4-15 lbs range....1/2 diameter??

more tests....gotta keep this shit simple now...and CHEEEEEEP too, ain't spending 800 bux on a suck system....

:fishing::eek:
 
mrvette said:
Phantom sezzz....you maybe want to rethink that...as the reports on DC seem to be that it takes about 35 hp dyno proven drain off the engine from whipping all that air around under the pistons....blasting it back and forth,...so running it under suction of 10" is supposed to aleviate a good bit of that problem....
Click to expand...


Dry sump scavenge sections already pull a vacuum, no vac. pump needed.
 
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