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SRountree

SRountree

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Apr 12, 2015
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352
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Cincinnati - Middletown OH
I was working on my dash, aftermarket gauges, hooked them up, started the engine and everything was working. Oil pressure, volts, tachometer, and temperature. Even my gas light was on telling me I needed gas. (I didnt hook that up yet). Since everything was working, i tightened everything up tight using zip ties etc. I changed the oil, new filter, started it up to circulate the oil and recheck levels after I shut it off. I tried to start it up and it just clicked once and wouldnt turn over. My lights were also flickering, my headlights wouldnt even come up. I benched tested the starter, it was fine. I changed the starter with another one I had, nothing.

The wiring is new, except the column and ignition switch. Everything was working great until I installed the gauges. Could my ignition switch be bad? Maybe the wiring in the column?

Last question, i want to change the ignition switch to the dash instead of the column, can I buy a dash switch and run the wires to it and be fine? I want to install an ididit column without the ignition switch but the signals, wipers, wires will run through the column. This should be ok as long as I connect them to the right wires. Am I thinking correctly? Is there any ground wires that might have become loose when I tightened everything up? I really do not knoe what happened. Any help or direction to get this fixed will be appreciated!
 
I'm a fan of the 'last thing I touched' is the problem. With that said, I'm not sure that's true.
I'd start with the last thing, but since it seems like you're not getting enough voltage - I'd trace the primary battery cables (both ground and positive) to see if there's a problem.
Grounds are famous for this issue - normally a dead short will at least smoke wires, a ground can look fine but not actually be capable of carrying current.
 
Steve, When it was running, did you check that the alternator was charging the battery? How much time between shutting it off and trying to re-start?

I think Ididit sells a dash switch harness for their columns. Connects to the "harmonica" connector.
 
Fusible link fried somewhere maybe?

X2 on grounding. X2 on the battery.

A voltmeter at the starter might tell if the switch has an issue.

The Kubota I just sold was doing that kind of randomly. Over the course of 2 years changed the starter, key switch, and battery. It was approx 12 years old and the forums said this was kind of normal.
 
The batter is new and fully charged. When it was running the volts was right at 13 plus.

I checked power the switch in run position, just not started, it was 12 volts, when I checked the purple start wire in start mode, it was like 7. That's why I think its the starter switch.

Will I have trouble if I buy a dash switch and just run the ignition wires to it? Technically I am just running them to the dash but I didn't know if the colum grounded it out or not.

I will loosen up the wires I zip tied and also see if I knocked off one.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I really appreciate it.
 
If the column is mounted, it will be grounded. The turn signal module will have a ground terminal. Used for the horn (and maybe flashers)?

Ididit makes a push button ignition for dash mounting.

 
Clean all terminal posts really good too, if you haven't already.
 
This might be a new thing because they don't have it on their website yet. I bought one from Easyguard and they are surprisingly cheep. They have great reviews too. The stuff looks and feels pretty good. Has anyone used this set up?

Easyguard ecoo2 comes with 2 key phobs, alarm with lots of options.
 
I'm going to work on it after I get off work tonight so I'll let you know what I find out. Honestly, I'm getting pretty frustrated with this vette. It's so close though to where I can get her finished up...ugh!

I wish I would have drove it before I took it apart and started fixing it up!
 
I pulled the wires down, basically loosening them. I found a couple wires exposed so I crimped them together.I put the column back in but did not bolt it in. I hooked up the battery and my lights worked again. No flickering, solid connection. Headlights, turn signals, and gauges.

I turned the key, heard it click once, and everything is dead.

Would it be the starter that engaged and maybe it didnt have enough power to make it turn over? Would I be able to remove the starter and put my volt meter on the starter wire, have someone turn the key and see if I am getting 12 volts? Wouldn't that be the best way to check?
 
SRountree said:
Would it be the starter that engaged and maybe it didnt have enough power to make it turn over? Would I be able to remove the starter and put my volt meter on the starter wire, have someone turn the key and see if I am getting 12 volts? Wouldn't that be the best way to check?
Click to expand...

many have run (including me) a Ford solenoid to power the starter solenoid in GM cars to fix that very problem. You use the purple wire to engage the solenoid then hotwire the purple to the main lug on the starter. Rerun the power cable to the solenoid then a new cable down to the starter. This also solves the header burning the starter wires issue because it's no longer live at all times.

with that said, you should be able to jump the solenoid S terminal to the battery cable and get it to spin over. If it won't do that - we're back to ground or (less likely) power cable problems
 
Ok. First I want to say thanks for your help. I am feeling kinda stupid though. I decided I was going to take the new battery out and go have it tested under a load. When I disconnected the positive cable it was all corroded. I swear, it looked fine all around it but sure enough it was heavily corroded just where it touched the battery. I cleaned it off amd added some electric grease and it cranked over like a charm.

So, I took my time making sure the wires were secured and tidy.

I also added the Easyguard push button start system with key phobs, and it works great and such an easy install. The pictures show how clean it is but I am not sure that's where it's going to stay. I will probably move it to the center console when I get to the point of getting back to the interior. FYI, the light switch will get moved too. I'm just trying to get everything working first.

I need a tilt steering column with no key. Thinking pretty about Ididit but not sure yet. Thoughts or suggestions?
 

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C2? Lucky you.

68 corvette has no key in the column. But, might be hard to find. BBShark found a c4 column would fit, I wonder if a c5/c6 would work (no key switch).

Or just get a speedway column with nothing but a quick release. :)
 
I think I settled for a ididit 35" universal column. Summit has a sale on them. All I need to do is weld my brackets on it. Also, I can add a wiper switch to the turn signal lever. This will keep my dash cleaned.
 
if I had a dollar for every time I saw something I did and thought "yep, that's fine" when it wasn't - I could hire someone else to make those mistakes for me.
 
I have heard of (never seen) people removing the key switch and filling the hole in the housing. Mostly for putting a modern column in an old car.
 
Not too difficult to remove them. Are spot welds along the both sides of the bracket and two fingers that wrap around the column tube that are welded on the ends. Welding the 81 bracket to the 96 tube was made easier because the tubes were the same size. Actually getting the plate that mounts to the floor was more difficult. Getting it cut off cleanly and proper positioning of the mount plate is pretty critical.

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That was quick. If I did it again, I would weld the floor mount plate first and then mount/weld the column support plate. Also, temporarily hold the plate on with band clamps, bolt it in place and tack it.

I say this, because you want to make sure you aren't pushing or pulling the capsules.
 
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