Electrickery for sure...

vette427sbc

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Putting my new harness back in the car and I went to go test it today before everything goes back together. Battery hooked up to the main power wire that goes to the starter lug, grounded on the birdcage....
Heres my setup:
Painless Universal 18 circuit harness. Push start with separate ignition and acc switches each to trigger a relay. The only wiring change I did was that the coil wire is triggered by the same relay as the ignition wire. I thought no problem, the ign powered stuff will just stay on during cranking. No biggie since theres not much else that will draw power as its cranking.
Starter relay works fine, acc relay works fine. Ignition is somehow backfeeding from the fuse box to the relay. Heres where it gets odd... Its not the relay. It will show voltage at the wire with the relay out. Getting more odd... Battery reads 12.5 volts. Everything that should be getting power reads the same. The backfeeding ign wire will read anything but 12.5v. 11v, 4v, .1v. It seems to change everytime I test it. Now this is all happening with NOTHING hooked up. no lights no gauges, literally nothing. Just un-terminated wires. The only current draw in the system right now is the relays.
This harness is simple, and I checked everything over. I cant seem to figure out what would cause this wire to somehow obtain less than the supply voltage. Is it possible that since nothing is hooked up I am getting this weird reading? This only happens to ign, acc and starter wires are fine.
:shocking:
 
Heres how my relays are setup... Even with the IGN relay unplugged, I still get a voltage reading at the pink wire. Even though that is supposed to be the only wire SUPPLYING the fuse box with IGN power.
relay_zpsd325991b.jpg


(forgot the starter switch ground trigger in my drawing)
 
I really don't understand WTF those relays are for, what are you trying to accomplish,?? and the way they are drawn, bunch of tabs on a square box are basically meaningless, just like those silly two digit numbers on these import relays, the way to draw a relay is like you drew the switches.....

an arrow pointing to N/O meaning normally open contact, with coil not energized.....and N/C meaning the armature allows the contact to be closed with coil not energized....



:smash::surrender:
 
I really don't understand WTF those relays are for, what are you trying to accomplish,?? and the way they are drawn, bunch of tabs on a square box are basically meaningless, just like those silly two digit numbers on these import relays, the way to draw a relay is like you drew the switches.....

an arrow pointing to N/O meaning normally open contact, with coil not energized.....and N/C meaning the armature allows the contact to be closed with coil not energized....



:smash::surrender:

I dont have s standard ignition switch anymore... Starter is activated by a push button, ignition and acc have their own toggle switches. I cant/dont want to run all the current through those switches so they just trigger the relays.
To be honest, I dont think I know how to draw a "technical" relay diagram. If I were to draw it differently, I would have used the pin numbers. They are just standard automotive SPDT relays :harhar::crylol:

The only thing the picture is showing is that the coil and ign are tied together. Otherwise I think the rest is pretty much useless for figuring out where or why i am getting a backfeed. Easier to refer to a picture then to describe a bunch of wires
 
SO the pink wires going to your ign coil are the one's picking up the odd voltage?? what sort of ignition is it?? HEI?? any computer involved??

sounds like something with the relay in the pink wire area....as drawn....if I understand you correctly...

:cool:
 
I'm assuming you are reading this with a Digital volt meter. Put a 12volt light bulb load on that wire and measure again. I'm suspecting your getting some stray voltage from a random ground reference. If That's the case the bulb will load the circuit enough to get a valid measurement.
 
I'm assuming you are reading this with a Digital volt meter. Put a 12volt light bulb load on that wire and measure again. I'm suspecting your getting some stray voltage from a random ground reference. If That's the case the bulb will load the circuit enough to get a valid measurement.

That was it thanks Steve!
 
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