Clutch/Flywheel Recommendations?

vette427sbc

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Anyone have any recommendations on a clutch/ flywheel setup? Not looking to do anything crazy like a twin disc but I would like something that can hold a good amount of power for future upgrades. Looking at flywheels around 15lbs.
I was looking at a basic centerforce dual friction (DFX worth it?) and I think it was a RAM flywheel. Maybe a SPEC clutch? What do you all use?
~425hp 2 pc rms block, GTO t56 with GTO hydraulics and a quicktime scattershield. Street car with occasional track use (road racing)
 
Monster Stage x?.... whatever suits your needs. Have a stg., 6 one with both a 18 anbd 28 lbs billet flywheel, will probably end up using the 18.

Word of wisdom when it comes to GTO hydraulics. They have a funcky quick disconnect on the hydraulics and I couldn't find a source for the couper to go in it. I would change it out to a new F body LS style hyd. throwout and add a remote bleeder kit while you are at it (speedwaymotors or if ordering from monster they have them as well), you will thank yourself for not having to wrestle with the bleeder screw in the trans tunnel.

Also, the GTO T56 has a rear mounted shifter adpater, remove it AND the shifter cup and get one from an F body as well... the shifter will be right on the parking brake lever otherwise.
 
Monster Stage x?.... whatever suits your needs. Have a stg., 6 one with both a 18 anbd 28 lbs billet flywheel, will probably end up using the 18.

Word of wisdom when it comes to GTO hydraulics. They have a funcky quick disconnect on the hydraulics and I couldn't find a source for the couper to go in it. I would change it out to a new F body LS style hyd. throwout and add a remote bleeder kit while you are at it (speedwaymotors or if ordering from monster they have them as well), you will thank yourself for not having to wrestle with the bleeder screw in the trans tunnel.

Also, the GTO T56 has a rear mounted shifter adpater, remove it AND the shifter cup and get one from an F body as well... the shifter will be right on the parking brake lever otherwise.

Thanks TT... I did see something online about the quick connect line... Someone showed pics of them just pushing the pin out and pulling that connector out of the base and replacing it with the standard fitting. I think Ill just get a new fbody slave though. I dont know how many miles are on the original one.

Here is what I mine looks like now:
252144d1283798695-gto-shifter-095image95038.jpg


So I just need to get this one? (not with the arrow)
h_e9E0uoumHVFmrgky7n5lnZsRyOMu0zdGd0nzb1155pbYA_lw.jpg

I got a new bronze "cup" with the trans that I assume is for an fbody since the previous owner was going to do that shifter mod as well or are the "cups" not vehicle specific?
 
Exactly. I don't know a source for them however, I pulled one of my spare T56s but now I'm lacking 1 as the GTO shifter cup is completely useless.
 
I'm using a twin disk in my Corvette - I like it because it's such a light pedal feel... but I'm not sold yet because I've set up the throwout bearing correctly, yet it still wants to slip... whether or not that's installer error or some problem with the clutch - I dunno, I'm working on it but the weather is not cooperating for good blasts down the freeway to see if it's still slipping.

Always use a blow shield, and the best flywheel you can afford, but at minimum steel.
 
on a road race course you will love a triple disc, Quartermaster (my preference) or a Tilton, on the street not so much.
 
on a road race course you will love a triple disc, Quartermaster (my preference) or a Tilton, on the street not so much.

Id love a setup like that, but Im trying to be realistic with my needs. Its still a street car.

I think Ive settled on the 16lb Ram flywheel and Centerforce dual friction clutch. I looked at some of the other options and I dont think I have a need for the super high dollar stuff. Id love to think that I have a 600 hp motor going in soon but I think Ill be replacing the clutch before that happens. Thanks for the insight everyone :beer:
 
I have yet to install it yet as I am almost ready to put my motor back in, but I have a ACT 12 lb billet chromemoly flywheel and RAM stage 3 clutch to throw back in mine. The flywheel is lighter than any of the aluminum offerings and its cheaper too. Picked it up from summit racing to go behind my freshened up 350.
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I have a stock style Sachs clutch - German brand of course :))

383 with maybe 400HP , clutch has taken all the abuse since 2007.....
 
I have yet to install it yet as I am almost ready to put my motor back in, but I have a ACT 12 lb billet chromemoly flywheel and RAM stage 3 clutch to throw back in mine. The flywheel is lighter than any of the aluminum offerings and its cheaper too. Picked it up from summit racing to go behind my freshened up 350.
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ma5yrany.jpg

I like that ACT clutch! Ill have to check that out :drink:
 
Hi,

If possible, try to have the flywheel and clutch balanced before assembly. They are probably way off in this aspect.

I bought an SFI approved flywheel for my 427 from a well known manufacturer and it had balance holes in it. The instruction said to have it checked anyway so I did. It was not very good balanced at all from the beginning. Also the clutch package is worth checking. I did this as well and ended up matching the clutch position to the flywheel to get a fairly good match. Would have been better to balance the clutch as well but I did not dare drill holes in the clutch cage so the second best option was to match it. Got a fairly good end result. When the clutch has to be renewed I will have to do it all again, but, since I have acess to a balance machine it is not a problem!
I have photos of this procedure in my thread in Projects.

//Daniel
 
I have a Centerforce Dual Friction in my 68. Works very nicely. Very smooth and certainly not too heavy a clutch pedal. The clutch mechanism is all stock C3 Corvette. It couples a ZZ4 Hot Cam to a Tremac 600 five speed.

After I bought my Centerforce, and before I installed it, there happened to be a flurry of postings on CF about people having balance problems with the Centerforce clutch. It's a centrifugal advance clutch. The clutch diaphragm "fingers" have a ring of little counterweights "woven" onto the fingers. The ring of counterweights is moveable, can slide back and forth, up and down, etc. I called Centerforce's technical advice because I was worried about getting myself in trouble with their clutch. They said that the counterweight ring is adaptive, it normally self adjusts and aligns itself to balance the diaphragm assembly.......however, if the engine balance is incorrect.....it will not automatically adjust....Tech advice was that people having balance (vibration) problems with their Centerforce clutches had an engine imbalance problem. Anyhow, I used the correct GM flywheel with my ZZ4 and have no problem.

..The Dual Disk. I have a McLeod dual disk on my 70. I haven't driven the car, so I can't say that much about it. It too is mated to a TKO 600 5 speed. I have the stock C3 clutch mechanism and I guess everything is OK. Except for being quite a bit more expensive, the McLeod mounted up MOSTLY OK....except sliding the TKO input shaft into the clutch. With two disks to mount up too, it was much more of a a struggle than a single disk. The plastic shaft alignment tool, was for me useless. I struggled for a long time with the plastic alignment tool to no avail. I ended up buying a real Muncie 31 spline input shaft ($105 from ebay). With a real 31 spline metal input shaft to align the twin disks, it went it pretty easily. (I think the input shaft is 31 splines...the memory falters.)

.....about the scattershield. My 68 has the stock GM bellhousing ..no problem with the ZZ4 given it's HP rating. For my 70, I'm currently targeting somewhere around 600 hp. This is naturally aspirated with 496/502 cubic inches. I'm planning on using the stock GM aluminum bellhousing. (Actually its the same bell housing as the 68) The GM bellhousings are light weight, and more importantly don't requirement alignment to the engine and bolt right up, since the OEM bellhousings are machined accurately. Shouldn't be any problem as long as I don't do something stupid like rev the engine to 3000 rpm in neutral and dump the clutch. (I've read that the GM Performance Parts repro bellhousings are NOT accurately machined as the OEM bellhousings. One poster said the repro bellhousings mounting holes were drilled 0.020 inches off tolerance.)
 
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