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I have been trying to lighten the load in my old age. Large/heavy things first. I can't believe the crap I have accumulated.

$5000 to $1500. Looks like a motivated seller

Not sure this is universally true but a cast crank should have a small parting line and cast in numbers and a forged will have a wide parting line and stamped numbers. I'm surprised there are any US forged cranks these days.

I remember the flipping Mercedes. Didn't Mario Andretti flip an IRL car about 20 years ago? Same problem?

I am using the C3 fuel sender in a 1968 tank. I started the engine for the first time about 4 years ago but I didn't have gauges until last year. So I have been starting it every 4-6 weeks for the past 4 years trying to run the old fuel through it. But without a gauge I added fuel like 1...

I need a new grill and have been considering a pellet grill.

Actually the panel fit looks better than a real 53. I think the price is low because it's an automatic. Do you know what chassis that is built on?

The exhausts exit inside of a channel (that is part of the diffuser?). Would they have been better off exiting the exhaust away from the body work, Like extending the exits?

That would be a surprise. Looks like it melted the tail lights!

Still have some tweaks to do on the cables for the latches. The Home Depot foam I used is sort of shapeable, I see a lot of people making surfboards out of it. But my focus right now is to get the doors functional and come back to the door panels after body work and paint.

Have you actually put 64997 on the car?

Mike, The axles (off of an early gen Dodge Viper) were shortened and balanced for ~$150. No re-splining, they use the same series Corvette U-joints (1350?). Sorry it's been a while.

I went to the Physics forum - no answer I went to the site that was supposed to give a definitive answer - no answer https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/tech...on-how-do-engineers-decide-its-placement.html PICTURES FROM THE SITE: