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NICE- I use a waterproof electric roller switch- has a NO and NC outputs- Can add a relay so when the ignition is on- the switch is inoperative unless your foot is on the brake. Also have a SS bracket made up for it. Have about a thousand of these in the field with my wiper kit- no failures!!!

This is what I used. Have stainless steel exhaust and did not wanna wrap them. Keeps heat in and quiets down the sound- https://www.ebay.com/itm/163049067238

You can do this-

Glad it worked for you!!! The other thing I would do- is coat the wood with some fiberglass resin. Just brush it on. It'll waterproof the wood and strengthen it up a bit.

I'd take a look at these- Mag Daddy

Nice work- and they used my electric wiper door kit!!!

Here's you go- If you have a smartphone- it's free!!! http://www.tremec.com/menu.php?m=154

Here you go- http://www.clarksvillefasteners.com/automotive/banjo-unions/banjo-union-10mm-banjo-hole-to-38-x-24nf-port

You could get a banjo fitting to female 3/8-24 inverted flare- I used a banjo fittings from these guys- http://www.clarksvillefasteners.com/index.php?route=common/home I know...I NEED another copper washer!!!

If you go with a larger diameter bore, it will INCREASE the amount of pedal effort required and require a shorter stroke; a smaller bore will DECREASE the pedal effort, but require a longer stroke. Here's are really neat way to add assist mechanically-

After driving the past two Hotrod Power Tours - 3000 miles in a week on my mostly original 73 coupe. There were a few things I felt were more a need that a want- Working AC, overdrive trans and delay/intermittent wipers!!! The wipers are really not that terribly tough to add a delay- but...

That looks like it will take up a bunch of valuable real-estate on the firewall!!! You think there is room? Here's my Wilwood brake and clutch set up. I ended up using some banjo fittings to move the proportioning valve away from the engine- DSCN5199 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr DSCN5198 by...

I'm going to stick w/ manual... Here's what I did find- On the left is manual set up- right is power. Notice the push-rod is using the UPPER bolt hole -Power is using lower- less leverage... So a smaller Master Cylinder- different leverage- I'm thinking will work just fine DSCN4771 by...

I use a sharp chisel and a block of aluminum. A couple of shots w/ sledge and you have a nice clean cut- NO tape required. Braid stays bonded to the rubber because it's not heated-pulled-stretched. If you are in disbelief - watch the video. I was able to take as little as 1 inch off some AN...

Yep- a charcoal canister for power brakes! Here's how I ended up doing it- The Aeromotive vent needed a roll-over valve-and they recommended the vent to be 6 inches above the tank...Sort of impossible unless I put it on my convertible top!!! So- I capped off the vent on the Phantom...

I think I found an answer... Run vent line from Aeromotive housing to rollover valve and then to a charcoal canister used on GM power brake lines ($10 solution part # 80195) to a vent-open air... Actually found this on a Mustang site- to deal w/ smell & pressure when adding EFI.