Has anyone used this? Tru-Cam Correct

That's what the new billet Comp Cams timing cover has, and also a lot of OHC engines to keep the chains from whipping around. Can't hurt IMO. This sure is a lot cheaper than the billet comp cams 3 pc cover.
 
It's not a bad idea even with a short timing chain, but why, oh why, are they attempting to take the slack out of the tension (pulling) side of the chain!? Dodge used a tensioner on their Magnum small blocks, but they put the tensioner on the slack side where it belongs. Also, the Dodge blocks are machined flat on the face and use a cam retainer so the thing just bolts in place of the stock cam retainer used on older engines. And here you have it:

312-P5007709.jpg
 
From their installation instructions:
IMPORTANT: The installation of the idler system requires drilling and tapping in strategic areas of the block.
Care must be taken in this process or damage can occur.
Click to expand...

Seems like a lot of trouble to me.
 
It does come with a rather substantial drilling jig, but the tensioner is still on the wrong side of the chain. BTW, Chrysler small blocks have a significantly longer timing chain that does a SB Chevrolet. Meaning, naturally, that the Chrysler has more need for a tensioner.
 
You're right, the tensioner is on the pulling side. Probably so it can be used w/ line bored blocks and not having to need a custom timing chain. The other reason must be, if you put the tensioner on the other side it removed slack from the chain but it doesn't do anything about the result of chain stretch, a retarded cam. This thing would keep that more stable by removing the slack on the tension side.
91599004~2_L.jpg

eben comp puts it on the pulling side on their half a K timing cover

9-25038.jpg
 
The design appears backwards - the chain on the driver's side of the engine will be in tension and will push the tension block out of the way; on the other side, the chain will be slack. If the design were reversed it would be good for longevity, but it's not worth 5 cents as shown.
 
That's just it, it's a racing part, not to stretch the service interval of your timing chain to 200K miles, it's there to increase timing accuracy.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
That's just it, it's a racing part, not to stretch the service interval of your timing chain to 200K miles, it's there to increase timing accuracy.
Click to expand...

Which brings up a question.....I have a double roller Cloyes on my 355 roller engine, and a HEI in back.....

what are the opinions of stretch after ~130k miles?? and so maybe to put a crank trigger on it??

any gains??

or just change the chain at this point??

:bonkers:
 
mrvette said:
Twin_Turbo said:
That's just it, it's a racing part, not to stretch the service interval of your timing chain to 200K miles, it's there to increase timing accuracy.
Click to expand...

Which brings up a question.....I have a double roller Cloyes on my 355 roller engine, and a HEI in back.....

what are the opinions of stretch after ~130k miles?? and so maybe to put a crank trigger on it??

any gains??

or just change the chain at this point??

:bonkers:
Click to expand...
A crank trigger would certainly fix the ign. but doesn't help the cam timing,so the cam runs a little retarded,good for high end HP not so good for mid & low range torque right? Gimpy
 
I went ahead and ordered a kit, probably won't be here until after Thanksgiving but it'll at least be a year or so before my car is running anyway. I'm going to test it out on the '82, the goal being increased cam and ignition timing accuracy. One of the problems I see with the (early) fuel injected cars is that there's slop in the ignition timing and the computer doesn't know how to compensate for that.
 
With the variety of engines I've worked on I don't buy for a minute that wimpy little spring and shoe will keep the slack out of the chain on the loaded side. The Mopar tensioner was used to reduce customer complaints about timing chain noise. Real cam drive tensioners, belt especially, have a lot of tension to them and they are on the slack side. I'd put my money into a first class timing set, making sure it's well oiled and move on. If timing chain wear really was a "problem" in need of correction I'd fully expect there to be a serious technical solution and this little rig isn't it.

Who here soaks their timing chain overnight or longer before they install it? You pre-lube your bearings right?
 
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