Old Project Revitalized - 56 Track Car

Thought some of you might be interested in how to plumb Tilton 78-series master cylinders. Because they pivot at the front (to keep the pedal-to-cylinder shaft perfectly aligned), they cannot be plumbed with hard lines. You need flexible lines from the reservoir to the cylinders, and from the cylinders to bulkhead fittings where you pick up the hard lines. Brown and Miller (BMRS) built these for me.Brake cylinders 1.jpgBrake cylinders 2.jpgBrake cylinders 3.jpg
 
If I ever get my rebuilt rack, I'll add a cooler. I plan on putting the rear diff cooler on when I do the gear swap...
I really like the lines I made for my hydroboost - they went together very easily, and now 2 years in, are leak free.
 
Here is the finished carbon fiber duct work that connects the center opening in the air dam to the 4X3" brake cooling hoses that are directed at the caliper and center of the brake rotor hat. In the center is a diffuser and outlet nozzle for the small Setrab power steering cooler. Working on the front splitter/undertray with diffuser tunnels that will terminate through "barge boards" to direct the airflow out the back of the wheel well and down the outboard diffuser tunnels. One project after another....Cooling Duct 2.jpgCooling Duct 3.jpgCooling Duct 4.jpg
 
It sure looks like you have perfected the technique.
 
Do you make a part like that over foam and cut it apart? i need to figure out how to do this.

That is really nice.
 
BBShark said:
Do you make a part like that over foam and cut it apart? i need to figure out how to do this.

That is really nice.
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Look at posts 176, 180, and 184. I build a buck out of wood, cardboard, tape, foam, and whatever, then cover that with fiberglass and sand smooth. Then I pull molds off of the buck, cutting them apart where necessary to get them off the buck. Finally I pull the CF parts out of the molds and bond them together where necessary. Not a hard process, but a little time consuming. Hope this helps.
 
mfain said:
Look at posts 176, 180, and 184. I build a buck out of wood, cardboard, tape, foam, and whatever, then cover that with fiberglass and sand smooth. Then I pull molds off of the buck, cutting them apart where necessary to get them off the buck. Finally I pull the CF parts out of the molds and bond them together where necessary. Not a hard process, but a little time consuming. Hope this helps.
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this is akin to Michael Jordon saying "well, I just play basketball"... you are way too modest, that looks amazing.
 
Reference the questions above. I will weight the wheels more accurately, but it looks like almost 23# for the 13X18 and 21+# for the 12X18. I currently have Michelin slicks - 30/65 front and 31/71 rear. That is about the same as 335f/345r. Here are some really early mock-up photos for you engineers to ponder. I am building the front undertray to accommodate a large Viper ACR splitter (TKO Motorsports). The undertray will have 4 tunnels, two of which dump behind the front tire ahead of "barge boards" that will help direct the airflow to the outer diffuser tunnels that run inside the outer rocker panel/side skirt and outboard of the frame rail. The undertray will be Kevlar (on the bottom for scuff protection) and carbon fiber with a foam core.Splitter 1.jpgSplitter 2.jpgSplitter 3.jpgSplitter 4 (2).jpg
 
Pappy -
I like it a lot! {You've heard that before...}
Is the red tube an add-on or part of the Viper Splitter?
I like the use of Kevlar on the bottom side. I've used some in my fender build. I am saving the rest for work like yours.
PVC scuff pads maybe? (I hate them for aero reasons if just screwed on - but they can be used to "shape air.")

Cheers - Jim
 
phantomjock said:
Pappy -
I like it a lot! {You've heard that before...}
Is the red tube an add-on or part of the Viper Splitter?
I like the use of Kevlar on the bottom side. I've used some in my fender build. I am saving the rest for work like yours.
PVC scuff pads maybe? (I hate them for aero reasons if just screwed on - but they can be used to "shape air.")

Cheers - Jim
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Thanks! The splitter is a laminated hard, dense plastic - red in the middle with a 1/8" black upper and lower surface. So, when you shape it, the red will always be visible in the center. We'll see how it holds up. I can always go back to the factory ACR splitter which I know through experience will take quite a beating.
 
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