Recent content by Red77

Mike, If you have the ability to TIG weld in the divider, you could secure it with some small stitch welds and reduce the potential to get any mess into the engine. Make sure you ground as close as possible to your welds and maybe disconnect all the electrical around your distributor just in...

Good catch. I was thinking U-joint, but it has been a long time since I've had one go bad on me. I don't turn wrenches for a living now either, so it has been quite a while. I hope you have it back at the house now to fight the snow banks!

The NCRS could make judging manuals from Alan's car. Even for those of us that don't go the factory correct route, his photos and descriptions on the other forum are very helpful when you're trying to figure out how it was supposed to be before Bubba got ahold of it. Sometimes that Bubba was...

I think it all depends on how wet. Fiberboard can be worked to an extent with steam and pressure, so maybe damp rather than dripping wet is the key. It's basically sawdust pressed together with resin and once it gets too wet and actually swells, it starts to look like oatmeal and has about the...

This was a great series, thank you again for putting in the effort to make this happen. Your results further bolster why so many of the competitors in Car Craft Magazine's Real Street Eliminator used the Super Ram. I recall several Camaros and C4s that ran the intake. With that much mid range...

I remember the Accel SuperRam being pretty popular back in the 90's until the LT1 took off. Looking forward to see what it actually does on a stock L98. Thank you for sharing this with us. :-)

Good to know. That should help on both performance and longevity.

Should be below the counterbalance, you don't want the counterweights frothing up the oil. Look at where a windage tray would sit below the crank, the oil will be below this level. Our resident big block racers should have a good handle on this with the cornering and braking loads sloshing the...

No luck finding the old VB&P catalog on my end. I must have tossed it when we last moved since they were defunct by then anyway. Good to hear you've made some progress despite uncovering new issues. That's what good R&D is all about.

Maybe something like the old VB&P dual mount spring kit they had for the C3? BBShark's description rung a bell in my head on what I remembered seeing in their catalogs. I remember a spring & mount kit for the C4 that had multiple positions to set pins to adjust the spring rate like the W2...

Glad it worked out. Maybe take a look at motorcycle radiators for your remote application. You may be able to find something that fits size and weight constraints if you shop some wrecked sportbikes. One concern will be it may take longer to burp all the air out of the cooling system, but...

I know how to do it with industrial controls, basically you need to find a timer to put into the relay circuit that will cut off the power relay after that 1/10 of a second. The problem with what we typically work with is that industrial components come industrially sized, much like your...

A couple of strips of Dynamat or similar sound deadening product affixed to the inside of the door skin and the inner door structure may be all you need. You can often get away with a smaller piece than you might think because you are just adding some mass to dampen the noise. Some close to...

It sounds like you may be on to solving the issue. I've never seen one of these booster filters before, just your usual check valve and typical issues were always leaking vacuum lines or a bad check valve. This could very well be the smoking gun as the clogged filter could create a restriction...

Welcome!