Recent content by Imo Apita

The irony if the situation; I pushed my '79 'vette to the side for blowing the transmission and now my new project has a bad transmission also. In any case: The dynaflow two speed is toast on my recently bought '63 Lesabre. I have the following options: Rebuild it if no hard parts are damaged...

I have an angle on car (non-corvette transplant) that is claimed to have a Corvette LT1 engine. The original from the early 70-ies, not the remake with the optispark. The finned valve covers are missing but still available on ebay. What would the value be on such an engine if the numbers check...

Transmission went south last week that was the straw that broke the camel's back.

Pretty useless info but my guess is that you have to change your bellhousing. I'm looking for parts to convert from auto>manual so I'm looking for parts.

Well? Don't keep us in suspense.......did you get it?:trumpet:

I got lucky, this one a '97 has a separate bell housing. So I got a T45 + short throw shifter for $120

So, in about 2 hrs I will be the proud owner of a manual transmission. Of all things it's a T45 from a '97 Mustang GT. Stock a little stronger then a T5, about 325 ft/lbs. Trouble is they were only made for 4 years so not a lot of bell housings available to mate to a SBC. But hey, I'll pay $50...

So would you recommend hydraulic clutch over the other (mechanical )kind? So no Chevy bell housing? Apologize for my ignorant questions...............:goodnight:

What does a "whole setup" include? I could look it up but what series were F-bodies?

Mas o menos 400-450HP same in torque. Think everybody is right and it's a T45. I don't know the differences and if it will swap just a easy as the T5. Just to make it clear: I need a Chevy bell housing to bolt onto a Ford transmission correct? Should I go for a hydraulic clutch or not? Not would...

I have an opportunity to buy a 1998 Mustang T5. Guy's asking $400. Should I go for it?

Thread resurrection ALERT..........:twitch: I think I've come to the conclusion that a T5 swap may be less hassle and less strain on the wallet then a 700R4. Feasible that I can get all the bits and pieces for <$1000? Did you ever get around to installing one Denpo or did I miss that part?

Looks good. I just switched my Cragars back for the originals. At least the '77 rims. I just really like the "deep dish" old school look. Eventually planning on 255/60R15 rear and 235 up front for a slightly staggered raked look.

I'm trying to avoid the bigger is better trap. Given the same flow numbers would you use a 2.02 or a 2.055 valve in a 4.030 bore? Street driven, rarely track, 6500-700 rpm max. Having a hard time choosing between the Brodix Ik200 (2.02) and the Brodix RR200 (2.055) IK200...

Despite my original intent to buy the Procomps from White Performance a seed of doubt has been planted. AFR and Brodix are wildly out of budget, unless I go Craigslist or Racingjunk.com Read about the AFR"s that they are fairly poor at oil control, as in too much oil is kept on top. As in oil...