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#1
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Is there a way to test my IAC motors. I have driven about 20 miles now & they still have not reset. Is there a way to ohm them out. If I took them out when starting should they respond.
The car is still not idling up when cold. If you try and drive it cold, it is very sluggish & tries to stall.I don't want to buy new motors at 70.00 a piece & find out there is another problem. |
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#2
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Quote:
the IACs I have on my L98 t body are similar, I suspect....screw in jobs abut 1.5 inches diameter and like a 1/2 NPT thread size....unscrew the things are clean them with carb cleaner, then blow them out, and a small dep of silicone spray....spray out the tbody IAC passages.....clean the tbody around the airvalve....black gunk buildup..... put it all together and do the IAC set proceedure..... hope that helps... ![]() ![]()
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"Hell, there are no rules here ... we're trying to accomplish something." Thomas Edison I have a little list, let ALL of them be MIST...... I love how Progressives want to have Darwinism taught in schools but denied as a reality in life. All products should say "Do not use if your stupid." [Only registered and activated users can see links. Click Here To Register...] [Only registered and activated users can see links. Click Here To Register...] |
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#3
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they are STEPPER motors!!!!!!!!!!!!! You can NOT just test them like that.
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#4
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MegaSquirt has a very informative page on IAC's Take a look at it, it may answer all your questions. If not, fire away.
[Only registered and activated users can see links. Click Here To Register...] Bullshark |
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#5
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Update,
I took the motors out today and checked them out. Both ohm 57 ohms on both sides of the motors. Put ECM in diagnostic mode, and they both move in & out about 1/8" inch. I reset them to 15/16" and reinstalled. changed ECM again for the hell of it, & the front IAC didn't move. The Rear IAC moved all the way in and stopped. The motor wasn't running even. Took them back out and remeasured gap. Same result. If I screw them in & out by hand, one of them works ok, the other shaft does not want to go in unless I put alot of pressure on it. I unscrewed the shafts again, & put on some loctite. Don't know if this will help, but what the hell. Called O'Reillys and I have 2 coming tommorow if I need them. 70 bucks a peice. Any suggestions |
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#6
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I"m checking just continuity.....I know they are steppers... just covering a base....I have never had one fail completely and cleaning has allways fixed the sluggish behavior....tbody need be clean in and out, the passages, and the blades...holes....carb cleaner and a air jet does it right in place....I suspect same for the cross fire.... |
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#8
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getting to like bending sheetmetal anymore.... Mass production my ass..... a box is a box is a box allready....fine one that works well, produce IT, and fix the problems with the existing BOX, not reinvent the wheel.... ah nevermind, I in a pissy mood, fucking idiots of the world..... lousey day at work with much adoo over nothing.... ![]() |
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#9
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Quote:
Could you explain to me about moving or damaging the pintle. Is it normal to be able to unscrew the shaft. I am assuming since there are 2 coils that flux moves the shaft in & out. Any suggestions would be great. |
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