Brush on primer?

clutchdust

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OK, I know this will sound a bit ghetto but I thought this is the place to get some good opinions. I have gone down to fiberglass in quite a few areas of my car. Since I'm through the gelcoat, I need something really thick to fill in that bare 'glass. Rather than spraying on coat after coat after coat of primer, why not just brush on one or two thick, heavy coats and sand smooth in between? Any good reason why this wouldn't work? If anything, I think it might ultimately save some money since virtually all the primer will go directly on the surface rather than a % being lost in aerosol.
Just a thought.
 
God knows I may as well have paint brushed my finish coat....


:crutches::hissyfit:

But I can say this much, it looked SO good in that light gray DuPont primer.....

should have left it there.....
 
2K urethane and epoxy primers can be brushed on, I've done it numerous times when I needed to cover a small area and it just wasn't worth starting the compressor and getting the gun all messy to shoot a small area that needs to be sanded anyways.
just make sure you use a brush that doesn't lose hair....
on the bare glass I'd brush a thick coat epoxy (2K) to seal the fiberglass and then either spray the urethane filler or brush the first coat, depends on how much area you got there...
 
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thick fresh primer will shrink with time and be noticable, having said that i dont know about 2k primers? Im a bit old school myself with acryilic laquer favored due to cost and easy to get here.:tomato:
 
2K urethane doesn't shrink much. Well, if you apply it 1/8" thick then yes, it might be a problem.
I've never used laquer but from what I hear it shrinks a lot more than urethane.

I am surprised you can't get 2K urethane primer down there ?
 
The very BEST thing you can do is call Barry K at 404-307-9740. He owns SPI.
He has done over 80 Vettes and won't steer you wrong he Loves getting tech phone calls, that is his cell number which he publishes just for that very reason.

Here is about what he will say. DO NOT clean with Lacquer thinner, ever,
never use chemical paint removers, and if you did you must get it all off and neutralised.
Prime with SPI epoxy primer, which can be sprayed, brushed or rolled.
Then next will come SPI 2K primer, or do an all epoxy job
Top coat with Concept, ProSpray, or other good base coat.
Clear with SPI Universal Clear

He is currently writing an a tech page: the perfect paint job on a Corvette

Here is his tech page , the Perfect Paint Job: http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect paint.htm

If there is no seller of SPI locally, SPI will ship for free to your door step.
Pricing wise, it is a bargain. Some of the best products for no where near the premium price of the majors.

Give Barry a call thank me.

Google SPI paint and see for yourself, it is the stuff to use.

I don't work for Barry or are in anyway connected with SPI other than buying product from them.
 
The very BEST thing you can do is call Barry K at 404-307-9740. He owns SPI.
He has done over 80 Vettes and won't steer you wrong he Loves getting tech phone calls, that is his cell number which he publishes just for that very reason.

Here is about what he will say. DO NOT clean with Lacquer thinner, ever,
never use chemical paint removers, and if you did you must get it all off and neutralised.
Prime with SPI epoxy primer, which can be sprayed, brushed or rolled.
Then next will come SPI 2K primer, or do an all epoxy job
Top coat with Concept, ProSpray, or other good base coat.
Clear with SPI Universal Clear

He is currently writing an a tech page: the perfect paint job on a Corvette

Here is his tech page , the Perfect Paint Job: http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect paint.htm

If there is no seller of SPI locally, SPI will ship for free to your door step.
Pricing wise, it is a bargain. Some of the best products for no where near the premium price of the majors.

Give Barry a call thank me.

Google SPI paint and see for yourself, it is the stuff to use.

I don't work for Barry or are in anyway connected with SPI other than buying product from them.

I just shot my car with the SPI epoxy, and I can't say enough praise about this stuff. It is just excellent. SPI was a pleasure to deal with and advice is always just a phone call away. I also bought the 2K primer, but it will be some time before I'm ready for that stage.

Here's the body with the epoxy primer applied:

06252010010.jpg
[/IMG]

06252010015.jpg
[/IMG]

I found a crack around the rear compartment that I didn't see before painting, so I brushed the epoxy in that area after I repaired it. It worked fine.
 
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The very BEST thing you can do is call Barry K at 404-307-9740. He owns SPI.
He has done over 80 Vettes and won't steer you wrong he Loves getting tech phone calls, that is his cell number which he publishes just for that very reason.

Here is about what he will say. DO NOT clean with Lacquer thinner, ever,
never use chemical paint removers, and if you did you must get it all off and neutralised.
Prime with SPI epoxy primer, which can be sprayed, brushed or rolled.
Then next will come SPI 2K primer, or do an all epoxy job
Top coat with Concept, ProSpray, or other good base coat.
Clear with SPI Universal Clear

He is currently writing an a tech page: the perfect paint job on a Corvette

Here is his tech page , the Perfect Paint Job: http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect paint.htm

If there is no seller of SPI locally, SPI will ship for free to your door step.
Pricing wise, it is a bargain. Some of the best products for no where near the premium price of the majors.

Give Barry a call thank me.

Google SPI paint and see for yourself, it is the stuff to use.

I don't work for Barry or are in anyway connected with SPI other than buying product from them.

I just shot my car with the SKI epoxy, and I can't say enough praise about this stuff. It is just excellent. SKI was a pleasure to deal with and advice is always just a phone call away. I also bought the 2K primer, but it will be some time before I'm ready for that stage.

Here's the body with the epoxy primer applied:

06252010010.jpg
[/IMG]

06252010015.jpg
[/IMG]

I found a crack around the rear compartment that I didn't see before painting, so I brushed the epoxy in that area after I repaired it. It worked fine.

That is the start to one hell of a nice project. When I do my 82 I'm going to have the whole inside done like that too
 
I just shot my car with the SKI epoxy, and I can't say enough praise about this stuff. It is just excellent. SKI was a pleasure to deal with and advice is always just a phone call away. I also bought the 2K primer, but it will be some time before I'm ready for

I found a crack around the rear compartment that I didn't see before painting, so I brushed the epoxy in that area after I repaired it. It worked fine.

every epoxy primer that i've used or read/heard about must be topcoated within a week or so, when you're ready for 2K primer you'll most likely have to scuff the epoxy and apply another coat of epoxy. Call SPI to confirm, would be a shame if you apply 2K primer and it doesnt stick....
 
You could also pick up a "preval" spray can at you local "Lowes", "Home Depot" or the like. You don't need the bottle, you can just use a paper cup to hold your materal. Run some thinner thru it and turn it up-side-down to clear it when finished.

Cheers
 
every epoxy primer that i've used or read/heard about must be topcoated within a week or so, when you're ready for 2K primer you'll most likely have to scuff the epoxy and apply another coat of epoxy. Call SPI to confirm, would be a shame if you apply 2K primer and it doesnt stick....

Yea, I'm aware of that. As you can see by the photos, I still have a lot to do. The body is back on the chassis now, but I still have to strip and finish the front clip and the doors. Another nice thing about the SPI epoxy is that it sands a lot easier than many of the other epoxy primers I have used in the past.
 
Thanks for the heads up on SPI. I spoke with Barry a couple days back and he gave me a step-by-step break down on what I need to do, even taking into account that the car is not only a long term project but still an occasional driver. I'm very confident in the advice he gave, much more so than in my ability to follow it correctly. :confused2:
 
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