Plastic Fantastic 2

got the intake back after a .075 shave
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set a carb on top mostly because I have a carb to set on top.... though it won't work as you see because it's got a boost referenced power valve
did some shimming to see if I could get away with .060 gaskets. Yes, yes I can
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Once I get the gaskets, I'll start huffing aluminum.... I'm not excited to start this phase.
 
So I worked on the motor a bit yesterday - mostly I decided to leave the heads alone then simply blend the intake into the ports.
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the line illustrates about how much I need to take off. I have gaskets coming tomorrow (I don't need to shave the intake) then I'll blend and get to work assembling this little beastie
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Seems like a lot of material off and the bottom flange of the intake.

Is that due to the import heads?

I bought an expensive (for me) single plane I take a few years ago. Instructions said "requires machining with oem heads." I think it was brodix and machined for their heads. Jegs didn't bother mentioning that detail.
 
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Or, is your line for gasket matching? Seems like more than on edelbrock intakes I've done.
 
it really seems silly to me that the area under the cabin isn't cross braced..... so that is one of those things I'll add to this car.

I agree !!! I tied the trans Xmember and the diff xmember together with a W brace that made a great place to integrate the seat mounts, the driveshaft loop, and the traction bars...
 

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the heads are import, the intake is Holley which is supposedly USA made... and it fits terribly... ah well, I so prefer having metal to remove then having to add metal....

talking a machinist yesterday (the one who shaved the heads and the intake) he suggested simply hogging out the holes
the problem
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see the threads on the lower side? need to open up the hole so that doesn't happen
grind grind grind
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looks like it worked
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I need to do a bit of minor port matching, but it worked (yay, saved $200 in machine work)
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to answer the question of if these springs will work... no, 350# springs
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modified my spring compressor to make it more useful.... and it is
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Good news, meh news..... good news is the springs on the iron heads are 485 lb springs
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bad news is the locks are for 3/8 valves
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and the aluminum valves are 11/32
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I may come back later and do a mea culpa* when I should have swapped to brand-name 3/8 valves... but I'm not going to - I blow it up and those higher-compression pistons I was thinking I would upgrade to will become a necessity - remember, I'm at 10.5:1 compression and I want at least 12:1... that said, the hot rod swap meet happens before race season restarts so those valves could happen still.... good thing I'm using a reuseable head gasket :)

*which is me saying "convince me to simply update now"... I think it'll be fine as long as I don't use this in anger - but I think those chinese valves with 11/32 stems are almost a guaranteed boom.... though I've kept sketchier things together by just practicing a bit of restraint...
 
I've been without a car that can do a burnout for more then a year.... I'm starting to get the shakes - though with that thought, I should probably glue some 220 grit DA disks to my hands and get to it on the bodywork... :hi:
 
I've been without a car that can do a burnout for more then a year.... I'm starting to get the shakes - though with that thought, I should probably glue some 220 grit DA disks to my hands and get to it on the bodywork... :hi:

well it looks like many burn outs are in the future for sure.
 
finally some progress.
clean it up
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install the crank with a new rear seal
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and that's all(ish) for tonight
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​I ordered rockers and measured the studs on the other heads
 
so first a fright
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notice the cam plate bolt holes? anyone want to hazard a guess as to whether or not a Gen 4 or Gen 5 cam and timing set is required? the block is an 89

fortunately, I have other stuff to do
I've finally given up - I'll buy the tapered ring compressors for all my builds - this one will work also with my Buick motor but I am not doing the hateful compressors again...
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then I noticed that the numbers on the rods are not the same as the numbers on the pistons.... the seller told me that the marked numbers (yellow) matched the holes so I went with that - but the rod numbers do not. I'd love to hear why he didn't number the rods correctly (they were resized) oh well.. I'm sure when HRM takes this motor apart in a few years they'll make much ado about how the rods were on the wrong journal... to them I say "HA"
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after number 2 I had to go do SAR stuff.... ah well, things are progressing
for those interested - Gen 4.... gave me a heart attack though when I saw that....there are no pedestals - which means that had I noticed before, I could have done away with the cam button.... ah well.
 
I added another holley carb to my collection - in reality, I think I'll use the body from my blower carb and the base (since I modified it) from this carb.... totally worth it to do
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the aforementioned blower carb
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right or wrong these were the decision. Stainless Elgin full roller rockers. Thought seriously about the aluminum but know that the guy with the 427 in his boat had nothing but trouble with them.... so here it is
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maybe I should just stack this scoop on top of the current one....
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2 degrees off. instead of 4 advanced it's 2 degrees advanced. close enough
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so this is the bearing on the back to keep from eating into the block (and of more concern putting showers of iron in the oil)
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most of the time tonight was spent adjusting to zero lash on the cam... but it's done
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next issue is on the floor
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I suppose I could fill the gap with silicone.....
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I am concerned about oil pan clearance - not cross member because that's actually in front of the motor, but how close the pan is to the ground... ah well, if it was easy, Pirate 4x4 could do it.

 
I'm interested to see how much that single plane intake sticks up. Dual planes are a tough fit.

Definitely want pan road clearance. Speed bumps can otherwise be a b____.
 
I'm interested to see how much that single plane intake sticks up. Dual planes are a tough fit.

Definitely want pan road clearance. Speed bumps can otherwise be a b____.

I'm interested too.... one way or another, I'll make it fit, but that worry is front and center.
 
Hope you plan on a block saver and blow proof bell housing. They make an extended pilot bushing now to accomadate the block saver.
 
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