A few upgrades for my '78

I have learned that I every day I walk into the shop and attempt to work on the vette that I need to throw up the double middle fingers and call it a whore. Because that's what it is. It just takes and takes and takes... my money.

I got my wide band installed and I'm all proud of the job I did.. hiding the gauge in the stock cluster where the useless clock use to live.
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This Holley 770SA is a bit of a pain.. I have done several jet changes and found that it seems to like #70 primary jets with #75 secondaries, a 5.5 power valve, and a #35 accelerator nozzle. Though I am going to try and step back to a #31 and change the cam to the 2nd hole.

The thing I have noticed is that I cannot get it lean enough at idle.. It idles around 12.5 - 12.8. I have tried pinching the idle circuit off to 14.0 - 14.5 at idle and then it goes 16.0 -17.0 at cruise.. So right now it idles at 12.8 and cruises at 14.5. Any advice? Driveability is really good right now, though. It starts easy, idles nice.. no hesitation.. is responsive.. so maybe that is the smart thing.

I did follow the lars paper and set the transition slot on the primary side to .020". I had to open the secondaries to lean it out and get an acceptable idle. It idles around 600 - 650rpm..

Timing is set at 35* all in at 2800 rpm. The vacuum advance canister is hooked up to the ported vacuum on the carb. I was having run on issues with it on the full manifold vacuum. For the life of me, I cannot remember how much advance it pulls in and I didn't write it down.. I think 22*. Oops. I will probably swap it out for a 16* canister and go full manifold vacuum.

So today I crawled under the rear of it to drop the spare tire carrier.. I don't carry a tire, anyway.

I'm in the process of swapping out the strut rods to VB&P HD heim joint rods. Like most people, my rear shock mounts are totally seized so they are currently soaking in PB blaster. I might mix up some acetone and atf... but will more likely just use a cutting wheel to eliminate them and install new ones. In fact, I ordered back ups already.

The stock strut rod bushings are totally hosed and both strut rods appear to have slight bends in them. I thought they were supposed to be straight? It doesn't matter.. the new ones are straight, heavy duty, and going in next weekend.
 
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the strut rods are supposed to be straight.... and yes, it's a whore; just like mine - silly ms. thing - just sits on the lift and looks pretty; even though she keeps showing the naughty bits underneath.

Do you have holes drilled in the butterflies?
 
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......... Like most people, my rear shock mounts are totally seized so they are currently soaking in PB blaster. I might mix up some acetone and atf... but will more likely just use a cutting wheel to eliminate them and install new ones. In fact, I ordered back ups already.

I ordered a pair of repro shock mounts (actually they serve as shock mounts and a pivot to connect the strut rods to the spindle fork.) .....The repro chock mounts were too large in diameter. They were too large in diameter to slide into the spindle fork attach point. I used instead used original GM shock mounts that were still in good condition.
 
I can live with the rich idle if it performs well everywhere else. The plan is to eventually grab one of those fast systems like you installed, sbg.

If those rear shock mounts do not fit then I am going to be very pissed! Where did you order them from?
 
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