Rodeck engine

Do you have 1 screen filter? I have 4 on each scavenge section and a large -16 on the retour line to the tank. They are easily removed for cleaning.

I don't see how the pan mounted filtering elements are harder to service than the ones inline somewhere else? The ones under near the pan are quite easy to get to.

if you use the factory pad, might as well chop the whole thing off and drill straight into the passage behind it.


I have one large round (6" tall maybe) Mecca screen filter w/-16 line between the pump and the top of the tank (with a coarse element) and a small -10 bullet between the back of the block and the third scavenge stage. What I like about a Mecca is the large surface area opposed to the small surface area of the pan mounted screens (years ago we used a "C-4" aircraft salvage helicopter fuel filter, also shown in the Power book). Inline in an easily accessible place is easier than jacking up your car and climbing under any day. If you look in the Chevy Power book it has a dry sump diagram that shows the pressure line straight back from the pump to the block, it also shows they use a standard oil filter pad mount......On my last three motors we have had the pressure line going in in the front of the block, on the newest motor I plumbed the oil cooler in the pressure line opposed to the Chevy Power diagram that shows it on the scavenge side. I`m just saying drilling the block and using a factory filter pad is an alternative to a remote for the paper filter...for anyone (other than TT reading this) the scavenge screen(s) do NOT take the place of a paper filter.
redvetracr
 
KWPlot, i think it would not work. It's going to be difficult sending parts that big over as a present.

If you knew an army guy that could get it shipped here... that would be an intirely different matter.
 
not much hope of getting this thing together if the discussion evolves to shipping and taxes.

The main bearings and cam bearings are pinned. I'm wondering if that is necessary of if i can remove the pins when putting new bearings in. I assume bearings would have to be percision drilled. How about loctite red instead of the pins?

I bet nobody knows the answer.
 
not much hope of getting this thing together if the discussion evolves to shipping and taxes.

The main bearings and cam bearings are pinned. I'm wondering if that is necessary of if i can remove the pins when putting new bearings in. I assume bearings would have to be percision drilled. How about loctite red instead of the pins?

I bet nobody knows the answer.


You want to use Red Loctite to hold the bearing shells in place? Not a good idea.:smash:
 
why not? most people don't use anything. Do you suggest i use the pinning method. or do you suggest i leave the pins out and put nothing on them.

Red Loctite will not allow the bearing shell to transferre heat correctly and the crush will be affected by the Loctite. If the shell crush is correct (rod big end has correct ID) there should not be any need for pins. But, some guys swear by pins. I feel if done correctly, pins would not be needed. Make sure there is no oil or junk between the shells and the rod inner face. This is critical!!!:bounce:
 
I feel if done correctly, pins would not be needed. Make sure there is no oil or junk between the shells and the rod inner face. This is critical!!!:bounce:

Well feel again. I talked to a machine shop guy today and he says aluminum grows when it gets hot so the pins are needed.

it makes sense....don't it?
 
Well feel again. I talked to a machine shop guy today and he says aluminum grows when it gets hot so the pins are needed.

it makes sense....don't it?

Aluminum block?? Somehow I missed that.:zzz:

Actually you are kind of a smart ass... but loveable........well maybe not loveable.:suspicious:


I should have read the post better. My Bad.
 
Last edited:
my current engine i fear is on its last leg.

i don't want to be messing with this thing for the rest of my life trying to get it right. My other option is to buy a cheap crate motor from GM for $1800 with 222/222 cam and bolt a set of aluminum heads on later.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by glenn64vette View Post
Aluminum block?? Somehow I missed that.

Actually you are kind of a smart ass... but loveable.........
"not smart or loveable."

just an ass??
 
Top