81 Differential

damoroso

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 7, 2008
Messages
409
Location
Middleburg, FL
Well, as been discussed many times, the 80-82 diffys aren't exactly the strongest ever built. Some have put higher HP numbers and had success, but it seems most have had some issues, even with modest HP. Well, I've put a big block in my car with a modest build, upped the compression a bit (10.5:1) done some head work, put in a decent hydraulic cam and a GM Perf intake, and a modified E4ME Q-Jet on it and Headman headers with 2.5 inch exhaust. The car came stock with a 2.72 rear. I knew it would be the weak link and would one day have to be addressed, just didn't know how it would go.

Recently I've had a "thrumming" sound in the car from about 60 mph to about 70-75. It's speed sensitive, not RPM related so I believe it to be behind the transmission, and not in the engine or trans. It would subside as speed got higher, but had been getting louder in it's "sweet spot",it didn't matter if I was in 3rd or 4th (I'm running a 2004R) or if the converter was locked or unlocked. I pulled the drive shaft and half shafts to double check the U-joints, looked over everything really well, and took it for a ride last weekend.

As I was getting on the highway, I got up to about 70 or so, and because of traffic, let off the throttle. Just easing back into it, right at that point where there's no load on the drive train, I hear a sound that sounded like running over those grooves they put in the road for toll boths, followed by a slight metal to metal grinding noise. Only when the drive line is unloaded.

I sent a message to GTR1999 and Gary responded right away. After our discussion, he felt the rear was near the end, and I had a few choices. 1, get the original rebuilt, he recommended Mike Dyer, 2, put an iron unit in it with rebuild/upgrade, or 3, go the 12 bolt way. I also spoke with Mike and he was very helpful too. He's willing and very able to build the current rear.

I was out of town on business and came across a rebuilt unit out of a 71, and it's got 3:36 gears in it, the guy never ended up using it and I got it for a really good price, so now I'm doing an iron-batwing conversion.

I pulled everything apart yesterday and here's what I found in the original rear end. I'm no expert, and I can't see anything else, but I can't believe this would be normal wear. The shinny spots are infact flat, like facets. The wear pattern on the spiders looks different from what I'd expect too. Is this in fact what I was hearing in the car? I haven't torn it down, and probably won't, but it'd be nice to know this was the problem. I'm also not sure what the "scratches" are in the housing. I didn't find any metal in there, and nothings looks broken.

I also have a question on determining half shaft length. I know how to do a drive shaft, but not the half shafts. I plan on using my shafts (they're 3 inch) and having flanges put on them to match the 71 diffy so I'll have one size u joint at the diffy end of the half shaft and another on the wheel side. So, how do I measure half shaft length so I can have them done??

DSC02574.jpg


DSC02578.jpg


DSC02586.jpg


I've ordered adjustable struts from Van Steel the mounting bracket and the other parts I need, and as usual, "whileimatititis" is in effect! I'll be adding a sway bar and will change the TA pivot bushings since it's all apart. The next couple of days will be clean up time, gathering parts, and hopefully I can get it together next weekend, measure shafts, have then done during the week, and then on the road again!
 
Okay, so I bit the bullet and did the iron conversion. I used an iron unit out of a 71, with 3:36 gears. Had to change the half shafts, strut rods and mounts, and axle flanges (80-82 use yokes). I also had some "whileimatititis" so I changed the pivot bushings, and added a rear sway bar. I had to have a drive shaft made (more on that later) and it's taken me several weeks because I've been traveling evey week for work, but I'm finally getting done!

I found that although the iron unit bolts right to the batwing, the pinion mounting bracket needed to be modified. I took advantage of this to correct my drive line angle, so it all worked out. My engine has a 5 degree down angle and the stock rear as well as the new iron unit both sat at zero. Since I needed more clearence for the pinion yoke anyway (it would just touch the bushing bolt), I repositioned the mounting plates for a 5 degree up angle.
 

Attachments

  • DSC02589.JPG
    DSC02589.JPG
    354.9 KB · Views: 23
  • DSC02605.JPG
    DSC02605.JPG
    370.5 KB · Views: 22
  • DSC02608.JPG
    DSC02608.JPG
    370 KB · Views: 23
  • DSC02592.JPG
    DSC02592.JPG
    393.8 KB · Views: 19
After getting all the pieces and parts put back together, it's time to clean up under the car and put them back where they belong!
 

Attachments

  • DSC02617.JPG
    DSC02617.JPG
    378.3 KB · Views: 19
  • DSC02604.JPG
    DSC02604.JPG
    369.5 KB · Views: 8
  • DSC02603.JPG
    DSC02603.JPG
    388.5 KB · Views: 12
  • DSC02602.JPG
    DSC02602.JPG
    346.4 KB · Views: 16
  • DSC02594.JPG
    DSC02594.JPG
    405.9 KB · Views: 16
After getting everything back in place, it was looking like there was going to be a problem with the exhaust clearing the strut rod brackets, but it fit fine. The issue now is the drive shaft. I ordered it while on travel, and it was delivered Friday as expected. The problem is neither end is correct!!! The caps for the U-joint on the differential side are to big for the yoke, but it's the correct width. They used the same yoke and joint for the trans side and I told them I needed it to fit the stock TH350 yoke (that's what I'm using for the 2004R that's in the car) so that end doesn't fit either. Talk about frustrating!! So much for getting it aligned and done this weekend, everything is back together, the spare tire and carrier are in place, and I've done a rudimentary alignment on it so I can get it to to the shop. I'll just have to wait another week!!

I'm looking forward to seeing how it runs with the 3:36 vs. the 2.72 I had in it, should be fun!
 

Attachments

  • DSC02619.JPG
    DSC02619.JPG
    399.5 KB · Views: 14
  • DSC02620.JPG
    DSC02620.JPG
    367 KB · Views: 11
  • DSC02621.JPG
    DSC02621.JPG
    373.6 KB · Views: 12
Well, lets see 272 to 336 ratio is some 35% increase in torque to the wheels??

so you better leave another 20' of patch on my street, UP HILL this time....

;):amazed::nuts:
 
Well, lets see 272 to 336 ratio is some 35% increase in torque to the wheels??

so you better leave another 20' of patch on my street, UP HILL this time....

;):amazed::nuts:

Yeah, we'll have to try it out and see what kind of art work it'll leave!! :)
 
If you paint your original ring gear, apply a little load, (you can do this with a rag and hold it by hand) turn it thru both directions you can probably see the pattern on the gears. That'll tell you where the noise is.
I know it's no deal now that you have the new rear in place, but if you get curious-----
 
Wow looks nice. I bet you will love the steeper gears!

Thanks! I think it'll be a good comprimise that should help it outta the hole, and still make it really nice on the highway. :)

at 78 mph you going to be hitting 2500 rpm....a tad much for a BBC like you have...IMO....308 was more like it....

I got a 308 r/p set here....as we discussed....
 
That's with a .67:1 final drive? Yeah, well, I'm not doing this again any time soon, let alone change out the ring and pinion. If I don't like this gearing, maybe I'll look to change it this winter.
 
Use some Loctite on the rear cover bolts and look into Norlock lock washers otherwise you may find the cover loosening up in the future. I know you took that 71 apart, polished,tuned,and fit a steel cap right!:lol:
 
Well Gary, I did use the locktite!! No sir, I didn't do as we ahd discussed, the polishing, tuning and fitting a steel cap... After the engine, trans, stereo, and now the rear end and rear suspension, the wife's starting to make comments now and then like "I just really want it done", and she really has been very supportive (it's taken about a year for her to get to this point), so I think it's time to keep it on the road for the summer. Next fall/winter it's body work, paint, front suspension re-build (it's good now but still 30 yrs old) and that would be a good time for the rear end mods. Gotta build up some tollerance first...her birthday is comming up, she really likes sparkly (it's her favorite color after all!! LOL)things so I have an opportunity to say thanks for the support that way! :D
 
Last edited:
Well Gary, I did use the locktite!! No sir, I didn't do as we ahd discussed, the polishing, tuning and fitting a steel cap... After the engine, trans, stereo, and now the rear end and rear suspension, the wife's starting to make comments now and then like "I just really want it done", and she really has been very supportive (it's taken about a year for her to get to this point), so I think it's time to keep it on the road for the summer. Next fall/winter it's body work, paint, front suspension re-build (it's good now but still 30 yrs old) and that would be a good time for the rear end mods. Gotta build up some tollerance first...her birthday is comming up, she really likes sparkly (it's her favorite color after all!! LOL)things so I have an opportunity to say thanks for the support that way! :D

AWWWWW....

Softy......

:nuts::harhar:
 
Got my 10th coming up next year....gotta do something like that, dunno what..though...

look for a blue light special at Walmart.....:1st:
 
Top