Guldstrand rear toe adjusters

COLE SWEAT

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May 8, 2013
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140
Has anyone made these adjusters for a c3 and how do they work?
Do they replace the pivot bolt?
 
Saw a picture of one once. I think redvetracr posted it.

Pretty much a threaded sleeve on a threaded stud. You need to drill out and tap the pivot in the frame. Not sure on any of this
 
Has anyone made these adjusters for a c3 and how do they work?
Do they replace the pivot bolt?

If you have chrome, and load the photobucket plug in, I've posted photos of home made ones.


http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10338&page=3

Pretty much a copy of the photo mentioned above. But, no grease nipple as it would weaken the bolt.

I can't log in to my photo bucket, but could probably find the pics later today or Sunday.
 
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Here are two photos. These pretty much show everything. There are more intermediate steps in the thread, the links can be used directly if you want ( copy link and delete ).

[ATTACH=full]46785[/ATTACH]

Not to hard if you have a lathe.


[ATTACH=full]46786[/ATTACH]

The car was on jack stands, so my welding was even worse than on a bench.

You have to have the frame out or cut the fender for installation.
 
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Were could I purchase these?

I am raising the pivot point 1 1/2", so should I fill the stock holes?
 
Just find a local machinist and take him 3/4 in grade 5 hardware. I have a frame that I'm going to do differently, Two positions.

The link above has all the details on what I did.
 
what size is the pivot bolt?
I couldn't see the pics but what is the 1" drill bit for? are you making the hole in the frame 1"?
 
what size is the pivot bolt?
I couldn't see the pics but what is the 1" drill bit for? are you making the hole in the frame 1"?

Pivot bolt: stock dia.

Copy photo bucket links from my old thread and remove . You have to "quote" to see the links I'm talking about.

Once you see the photos, it will make sense.
 
do you install a washer between the adjuster and the johnny joint? maybe a fender washer ?
 
do you install a washer between the adjuster and the johnny joint? maybe a fender washer ?

I think I did, I'll check tomorrow. Remember, I did this because I was going to up the HP. Seems to work fine on the road, but not a lot of miles yet. Car is on hold while I finish one other car.

But, it should work with or without a washer. The 3/4 in bolts are big and I faced them off for a flat end.

You could use grade 8 hardware, but machining grade 5 was a lot easier.
 
Hey Cole, with Johny joints you might not need washers, but they wouldn't hurt. Otherwise, washers are probably a good idea.

I did mine in the stock location, removed the storage box and battery box, and windowed the 45 degree brace to aid in getting to the inside adjuster. Raising the up like you plan may make it harder to adjust, I don't know. But my next frame will have two locations, stock and raised.

For the raised position, you can see Peter Klutt opened up the hole in the kickup of the frame.
Here
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1170&highlight=Peter

Good luck.
 
I currently have the body off, going through the frame (gussets, welding seams) so I want to get it all done before I paint the frame.

going to be using the Vansteel double offset trailing arms with johnny joints along with a 300lb shortened spring. was looking to raise the pivot point 1 1/2". I read some were that raising the pivot point will get rid of some of the squatting.

Van Gordon Raising built my bb ls6 for me with full roller. should have loads of hp.
also he made me a th400 with a 2500 stall. So I don't want the ass end to sit on the ground when I take off.

What would you think of welding a plate on each side of the kick ups before I drill my 1" holes?
 
I currently have the body off, going through the frame (gussets, welding seams) so I want to get it all done before I paint the frame.

going to be using the Vansteel double offset trailing arms with johnny joints along with a 300lb shortened spring. was looking to raise the pivot point 1 1/2". I read some were that raising the pivot point will get rid of some of the squatting.

Van Gordon Raising built my bb ls6 for me with full roller. should have loads of hp.
also he made me a th400 with a 2500 stall. So I don't want the ass end to sit on the ground when I take off.

What would you think of welding a plate on each side of the kick ups before I drill my 1" holes?

Sure. A mag base drill would be good too. I looked and the cheapest mag drill was $500, so it was too much for a one time use.

You might think about using the stock holes to help locate your upper holes.

Note, I drilled the holes first, then machined the parts to fit, around 1.005 - 1.01 inch dia.

Keep us up to date on your progress.
 
I have pics of an actual Guldstrand kit with dimensions but the pics which are not that big are too large for VM, if someone wants to send an e-mail I will try and FWD them for posting...
 
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