pass side door latch

That would be great, do you know what year? There seem to be differences between "up to 77" and "78-82" .... But I think they should still be interchangeable, the striker position is the same as far as I can tell.....
 
Found it. I have a box full of door parts marked 1976. Hope that will work.
 
I haven't found any good info (yet) about the differences between early and late style latches......

You have a passenger side latch? I have a driver side latch but not sure what year, I'll take photos tomorrow....
 
Nope, it's the latch that bolts to the back side of the door:

1f6253a178a8c2610bd6d64558062c7c_zps49f22bee.jpg

Still not sure about the difference between the years - i found photos on Google Images but hard to say what year these are.
 
I looked at Paragon and they list 69-77 and 78-82. When you look at the images (which are barley bigger than thumbnails), they appear to be very similar.
 
maybe power door locks and alarm vs no power locks/no alarm ???

The striker is in the same location so it shouldn't matter, both styles should work - especially for what I'm doing with these gutted doors.... :trumpet:
 
Karsten, PM me your address and I'll send it to you. Also have the other door parts if you need any.
 
They lever arms inside the latches are 0.070 inch soft steel. The pivots for the lever arms are very crude....no ball bearings..and no bronze bearing sleeves. Just a bare steel punched out to form a bearing sleeve. The grease for the pivots attract dirt, which means were I live ...sand. With age, the sand grinds away at the pivots. At the first instance of binding, if you use force to try to actuate the mechanism, the 0.070 inch soft steel levers will bend. When bending occurs, you're hosed.

Of course, if the lever mechanism binds and you can't immediately open the door, it's a PITA to force it open with screwdriver probes.

What I'm saying here is to buy new repro latches. They appear to be of good quality. They're not all that expensive, but before you even start to whine about the price, think about us 68 owners.......there's no repro latches available. If you have a jammed latch, and it's a 69 latch and above, buy a new repro latch, go forth and be happy.
 
All four latches that I have work perfectly fine, apparently I am lucky and there's no dirt in there.... I never cleaned the latches but now I'm considering washing them, get all the dirt and old grease out and re-grease.....
 
The passenger's door on my 70 failed and wouldn't open. I used the screw driver long plunger method to open the door. I decided to replace the door latches on both the drivers and passengers side. Opening a door when the latch fails is a problem you don't want to ever experience.

To use the long screwdriver technique, first open a door that works OK. Take off the interior panel. With the door open and the panel off, you can see what the long screwdriver probe is doing. (The screw driver is to be used as a push tool) Practice on this door. When you've got it so you can open with the long screwdriver,...then go to the jammed door.

Long screwdriver.. you don't use the screwdriver to turn screws, you use it as a shaft to trigger the door latch interior mechanism.

Last I knew, the 69 and up latches were still available to purchase. Buy one to replace the defective one. Hold the new one in your hand and then practice with that long screw driver (actually just a push tool) to train yourself as to how to open the defective latch.

Been there, done that with two lock outs...my 68 and 70. Get back to the forum. There's photos and a lot of discussion on the forum about this issue because it's such a common problem.
 
Last edited:
I dunno, I frequently just do a few shots of ATF/engine oil/WD40, whatever convenient soon as they seem a little grouchy, and have never had a door latch problem....

course, soon as I say this..........:mime::banned::mullet::rolleyes::clobbered:
 
Top